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The 1971 trip to England was the first on which George and Mila Jean Ehrlich each kept, or at any rate preserved, a travel journal. These are not so much guidebooks to the Sceptred Isle as windows into my parents's points of view, on life and adventuring and how to document them: "Linear George" on the one hand, "The Mila Spiral" on the other. (As depicted in the logo above.)
Always intrigued by the relationship of pictorial art to scientific development, George went to England to study the illustrators who accompanied Captain Cook on his voyages of discovery. Mila Jean came along not just because she was always eager to travel anywhere anytime, but to revisit the country where she spent much of her Fulbright year in 1954-55, and to see as many theatrical performances in storied venues as possible. These she described, far too briefly, in dashed-down diary entries; it's a pity transcriptions are not available of her oral reminiscences.
George's journal was in part a research field log, from which I've excluded sizable segments from the text below. Among these are detailed photographic notes on lens sizes and types of film, plus scrupulous weekly calculations of the trip's tightly-budgeted expenses. Enough samples have been retained to give a good glimpse of Professor Ehrlich at work in his prime, pondering the day's events and planning future endeavors. Mila Jean could be just as methodical ("in her madness," she would instantly add), having made all the preliminary inquiries about accommodations and local resources for the London trip, and listing her findings with occasional exclamatory marginalia such as decorated most everything she wrote.
To counterpoint George's measured observations with Mila Jean's staccato responses is rather like interspersing Beethoven with bursts of Broadway show tunes; yet they journeyed together harmoniously, arriving at the same destinations with much the same mindset. And fortunately they both left a record of their explorations, allowing us to hear their voices speak once more.
Thanks to my brother Matthew for making and scanning selections from the 1971 picture album for inclusion below. Unless otherwise indicated, these were all taken, developed, and printed by George, who (if we'd made it that far) would have toted camera, tripod, light meter, and satchel of photographic equipment all the way from Land's End to John o' Groats.
A NOTE ON THE TEXT
To enhance the clarity of reading these travel journals online, I have amended punctuation, adjusted paragraph breaks, and expanded most abbreviations. In her diary Mila Jean usually referred to her husband as "Geo"; I've noted a few times—possibly significant—where she wrote out his name in full. "[sic]" is my editorial addendum; "(sic)" appears in the original text.
This webpage is best viewed on a device using the three fonts I employed: Times New Roman for George's entries, Comic Sans for Mila Jean's, and Verdana for my own.
At the time of the 1971 trip to England, George was 46 years old, Mila Jean had recently turned 39, I was fourteen and Matthew was eight.
GEORGE: Marie Gerules took us to the airport and the Smiths were there to see us off... Departed Kansas City without incident and on time. Changed planes in Chicago and departed from there on time and arrived early in Boston. While I went over to Avis to pick up the [rental] car, Mila and the boys waited for the luggage. As I received the Avis material, the family with bags materialized. We walked with luggage to the car—we can manage, which should ease things [in] London Wednesday morning. We have a Plymouth Duster, which is called a compact. Seems fairly big to me, and has power steering. Well, we followed the signs and arrived without difficulty at the Fenway Cambridge. The room is satisfactory, on the 12th floor with a view to the north. We can see downtown etc. On the way to the motel we went through MIT and went past the Saarinen Kresge Chapel...
As I write this, it is 9:30 pm Boston time, and I am doubly pleased that we elected to take this one-day break in our excursion, I feel weary and a little headachy. I have a number of small packets of Gantrisin which I have been taking with care. I trust the headache is sinus and not sulfa pills. The "symptoms" are quieted down.MILA JEAN: Departed on time [in a] 727—landed in Chicago early. Took off 3:50 to land [in] Boston early—before 7:00 PM. Collected luggage & took out Avis car, a dark blue Plymouth "Duster" with power steering—seemed huge to us. Got through tunnel & over Charles River with little problem. Motel [has] lovely view of buildings on river. Geo & I had sandwiches upon arrival (7:30)—walked to store for candy bars until 9:00 PM. Bath & TV—marvelous comfortable beds but Matthew couldn't sleep. Neither could I, of course. Tramp, tramp, tramp!
GEORGE: The morning was spent in Cambridge, principally in and around Harvard. After an ordeal of driving looking for a place to park and avoiding dense traffic, one way streets, [and] arrogant pedestrians, we did settle on Oxford Street and in walking distance. We visited the Busch-Reisinger museum which had a Bauhaus exhibit on. Sad to say, except for some of the Klees, the stuff looked more dated than illustrations suggest. Some of the work was of archival interest, but major display stuff it was not. In some ways the furniture has lasted best. From there we headed for the Fogg. We noticed activity in the [Harvard] Yard, so we cut in there and bypassed the Fogg accidentally. They were setting up chairs in the Yard for Commencement that will occur on Thursday. We finally worked out way back to the Fogg. The Central Court was being set up for a luncheon, and on inquiry I learned that it was a Phi Beta Kappa affair. We had noted several people in regalia beforehand. We spent very little time in the Fogg. There was A Tribute to Taste: Favorite Works of Agnes Morgan which was tastefully done, many drawings of course. I glanced at some of the contemporary works. I photographed the boys and Mila and later was asked by a guard if I had permission to photograph. I apologized and noted the truth, that I had photographed only my family. But next time, I must check ahead and clear this. From the Fogg we headed back to the car. We stopped at the University Museum on the way. We saw principally the zoological displays, and did not see the Peabody in the same room. The boys were tired and restless.
Driving in Cambridge and Boston is insane. They still haven't improved the marking of streets, and it took considerable stamina to get back to the motel. There we had lunch, and then checked out. Once again, there was a battle with streets and traffic, but after considerable effort we did reach the Boston Naval Yard and we toured the U.S.S. Constitution. This was quite interesting and worth the effort. After the Constitution we made a tortured trip around and around to the old town and finally we found a place to park. We managed to see the Bulfinch St. Stephen's (restored recently under the support of Cardinal Cushing) and then to Old North Church. From there we walked over to the Paul Revere house, but that and the late 17th century brick house next door were closed by the time we got there. Thus it was back to the car. We drove down Beacon Street, over to Copley Square and wrestled through considerable rush hour traffic. Trinity Church still looks good though the new Hancock building next to it is going to be a big one.
At this point it was prudent to try to head for the airport, even if it was rush hour. Without recounting the experience in detail, we made it through the tunnel and checked into Avis. There a young man drove us to the terminal. We snacked in the terminal and watched from the observation deck, and now we are waiting near Gate 2 at the International Terminal as I write this. The book is on my lap and writing is a bit cramped...
The Pan Am 747 arrived (from Baltimore) and we boarded it after a fairly thorough luggage search. We had a center row of four seats in the middle cabin. From thence, all went fairly well and on time.
MILA JEAN: Cool weather, 60's-70's. Asleep until 8:15. To breakfast—& morning motor & walk tour of Cambridge. Busch-Reisinger Museum (German), Fogg Museum & University Museum (geology—zoology—gerbils etc.—fossils). Very confusing driving. Back to motel for lunch & check out—owed 90¢ (had prepaid $25). Harrowing drive to Naval Yard to see "Old Ironsides"; drive to Heritage Square, harrowing walk through old parts of town. Drive in bad traffic to Beacon Street. Decided to take car back to airport at 5:00... [Had] milkshakes—watched planes on observation deck. Watched 747 taxi in—huge whale. Boarded after customs check about 8:30.
Boston to London flight: June 15-16. Fantastic seating for many people (300?!) in plane—patient steward & girls. Served great meal 10:00-11:00. Earphones. Saw part of Jane Eyre 1100-12:30. Dozed (swaying, switched on & off lights). Paul sat through all. I awoke 2:00 AM our time (7:00 theirs) while they were serving juice & rolls. Very very smooth flight, hardly conscious of flying at all.
GEORGE: After a short and fitful sleep we arrived at Heathrow where we landed at about 8 a.m. London time, 3 a.m. Boston. Passport check was routine, baggage claim was very slow, but customs waved us through. I exchanged money, $100 cash for £40.55. Except for specific purchases of a business sort, I think I shall take one-third of my general expenses as personal maintenance. This is, I feel, reasonable since the boys are modest eaters, and what with our catering for ourselves, it is impossible to sort out individual portions.
Well, with English money in hand, it was off to the Pan Am station in the Victoria area. This cost me (as an individual, I shall underline to clarify) this cost me 45p. Once we arrived at the Pan Am terminus I realized that there were some hazards in trying to walk it. We were all very tired, especially Paul, who had no sleep at all. A taxi driver approached me, and I said we were going only to Eccleston Square. He promised not to cheat me, which he did not, and we arrived in fine style. He assisted with the boys, so I gave him a generous tip [of] 15p and the total cost was 60p.
We had no difficulty in locating the housekeeper, or perhaps caretaker would be more to the point, and we were quickly shown up. One room was ready, the other needed to be vacated (under way) and soon we had both rooms. They are on the third floor (American count) and we have #s 7 and 8. This is the entire floor except for the bath. We share the bath with #5 below, but this should be no problem. We have a telephone on the landing and relative privacy. The facilities are adequate but not elegant. I shall, of course, photograph them for the record. So the boys received the front room, #8, with a view on the square, we took #7, with chimney pots and roofs. It is slightly larger and has the better fridge.
So, once settled, it was off on several excursions to size up the neighborhood. It is an excellent location for everything. Within short walks, we can have all services. I did not locate a post office, but this was an oversight. I found sufficient shops and markets on two excursions by myself to stock up our larder. Then I stretched out and slept. Mila slept. The boys both conked out while I was excursioning. After we had rested several hours, Mila and I took a third tour and shopped for several more items at the neighborhood supermarket. The one thing I have not found is a decaffeinated coffee of any type.
Upon return to the flat we discovered a lack of matches [to light the gas stove], so Paul and I went out to buy some. Strange little things and upon return we prepared a light supper from our supplies. After another rest, it was out for an excursion with the entire family. We tried Vauxhall Bridge Road and the Victoria Station, the Coach Station, the Underground, and accumulated travel information. We returned along Wilton Road, and as far as I can see all is in good order. We can sustain ourselves very well.
We are, of course, rather tired, but I feel we all made the transition quite well. The evening has been spent with the record [i.e. the travel journal] and with studying maps and travel data. Now it is a logical time to call it quits for the evening.
MILA JEAN: Debarked 8:00 AM—many steps, walkways, etc. No customs to speak of. Descended to get luggage on our own hand cart. Out to Pan Am bus (Matt & Paul groggy) to Pan Am terminal at 9:45. Finally staggered into cab to go to 64 Eccleston Square. Rooms #7 & 8 [of] 14 rooms. Coolish, 50°-60°. Inadequate lights. Only about 3-4 blocks—worth it rather than drag that mound of luggage ourselves. Eccleston Square a nice surprise—white townhouses surround beautiful private park. We have two large rooms, one with 1 double bed, 1 single, 1 sofa, 1 wardrobe, table, 4 chairs, dresser, mirror, baby fridge (new), storage cabinet, sink, little dirty stove. Boys have prettier room but less spacious (overlooks park). 2 big chairs, twin beds, rest same. Whole floor ours, bathroom big (supposed to share with #5). Kids slept until 4:00. We buy supplies & eat here (chicken soup, ham on rolls, lettuce & tomatoes). Walk around until 8:00.
GEORGE: As can be noted in the crossouts [of previous date entries], I have been confused as to the day of the week, numerically as well as nomenclature. I have simply been off schedule and I trust it won't last. After a morning which started by my getting up early and studying maps and the classified phone book for key addresses, I finally got the family alert and breakfasted—in a manner of speaking. I had gotten only a pint of milk instead of the quart I asked for—cereal was for only a few. The morning was for immediate chores.
First we went to the Belgravia branch of Barclay's bank where we deposited the $1,000 bank draft and opened an account... We shall be cleared and receive a cheque book next Tuesday. I shall write Mr. Pettey the information so that the Plaza Bank can send over additional funds (Mr. Cread Pettey, a Vice President at our bank). While waiting for the paperwork, Mila changed $100 in traveler's checks and received £41.03 for them. A slightly better rate of exchange than yesterday.
From the bank we took the tube to the Marble Arch and began walking Oxford Street seeking raincoats for the boys. Today began with intermittent rain but clearly not difficult—only damp. The afternoon/evening was splendid. We hit a number of stores, including Selfridges, only to discover either nothing or fantastic prices. So we ended in a Woolworths and bought plastic raincoats for both [boys] at slightly less than £2. With purchases like this and another mentioned below in mind, I need to review my estimation of maintenance expenses. Since I shall note specific expenses that relate to my project and my transportation, I think it best to deduct these from our total expenditures and then take 25% of the balance for my maintenance. This should allow for raincoats, tote bags, and other small item purchases, as well as a small allowance to the boys. I think I shall take a tally each week, thus each Tuesday evening will be an accounting. [In the left margin: "Calculation Day / Tuesday Evenings"] The last week will be a long one. I feel the estimate is defensible if I note any general expenditure of a couple of pounds or more ($5+) separately and not take the 20% of that as well.
So much for that—on with the narrative.
While on Oxford Street at Selfridges we did purchase some hitherto hard to find food items—including instant Sanka for me. Also there I purchased two "Pull-Push Rulers" with inches and centimeters, one 10 ft 3 m, the other 6 ft 2 m. 76p and 59p respectively. After returning to the flat I read Gerry's reminder and saw I was to get one for Nancy as well. I'm sure I shall return to Selfridges for more supplies so I shall get another 3 m rule in the do-it-yourself department.
We ate on Oxford Street (Whimpy's [sic]) and returned for a short rest at the flat. After the rest, Mila and I found a post office on [illegible] Road and purchased air letters and stamps for air cards. From there we picked up the boys and went to Victoria Station where we boarded a [bus for a] two hour tour of London. Considering the route and the horrible traffic, it went tolerably well and was informative for all. It was not a real tourist tour such as the tour companies have, but rather analogous to my taking a candidate around the campus and Plaza area, etc. I am, however, less droll than our Scot driver. Also I hope clearer to hear.
On return to Victoria, we stopped in Woolworths on Vauxhall Road (also backs on Wilton) and there purchased milk (they have a food department) and a black tote bag for a very modest sum, less than a pound. I cannot recall the sum at the moment. I will give it to Matthew for the return flight, but shall use it here in London for various purposes. It will work quite well for camera bag, camera, umbrella and soft raincoat. Also can be used for groceries.
We then went to Tesco (supermarket—sic) on Warwick Way, purchased supper—beefsteak no less—and grilled it on our stove. Our repast was fairly splendid. We bought some spices!
While I tend toward easy fatigue, I shall temper my activities carefully. [Line scored through] (I'm getting vague) This evening is a review period for many things. I've decided to give, each Thursday a.m., to the boys an allowance of Paul £1 and Matthew 60p. We shall see if they are temperate.
Also, tomorrow morning I shall visit the British Museum (Natural History) and make the contact that did not materialize through the mails. Possibly in the afternoon I may try the British Museum for my "reading room" tickets and familiarize myself with procedures. The Saturday and Sunday sightseeing and general museum visiting—e.g. Tate, and Monday I shall continue my contacts.MILA JEAN: Off to Victoria Station—Barclay's bank (Westminster branch)—then Oxford Street shopping—expensive—£20 for child's raincoat. Bought the boys' ones at Woolworths. (Matthew's raincoat £1.25 = $2.90, Paul's raincoat 70p = $1.68.) Selfridges for tapes & food goodies. (Pigeons! everywhere.) Lunch at Wimpy's (hamburgers) Buck[ingham?]. To post office. Two hour bus tour—2:45-4:45, "Dundee" with Scots accent offering comments & driving bus too...
Some Grocery Items: Insta-Swiss (product of Switzerland—Selfridges) slightly sweetened. Vesta ready meal, chicken supreme with rice ("creamy white sauce with veg. & tender chicken," serves 2) 26p. Sanka: 43p. Yeoman Wondermash!! fluffy mashed potatoes (in bowl) 7½p. Crawfords Tuc snack crackers.
GEORGE: I began with a single excursion in search of a custom photo processor. My first try at a "large" camera shop on Vauxhall Bridge Road was successful in that they directed me to the branch of Wallace Heaton nearby on Victoria Street. There they informed me that they could do "individual development," which means one roll at a time in a tank. It isn't cheap, 35p per roll which is about 75¢ (vs. about 27¢ [at home]), but it is super fine grain... So I shall try them out. I gave them the roll of TX that includes K.C. and Boston with the last two shots of window views here in London. I've ordered contact prints as well. Mila has just pointed out that Wallace Heaton is by appointment to Her Majesty the Queen, Suppliers of Photographic Equipment. I note it does not say processing. I can pick up the roll and prints on Monday. This will be a great convenience if it works out.
With that out of the way, it was off to the British Museum (Natural History) to establish contact. The fact that I had not received an acknowledgement [of my letter of inquiry] was a source of concern to me. I began by making an inquiry at the information desk. There was confusion at first. My statements served no purpose, since they have five libraries (or was it six?) and would I explain which one I wanted to visit? I patiently explained that I didn't know for I never received a reply to my letter of inquiry. So at last I was sent to the General Library where I rang the bell, and was admitted by a doorman who had me sign in. Then he took me to a reading room where a gentle, portly, balding man with an armload of books came down to see what I was about. My attempt to proffer my card was defeated by the fact he had an armload of books. These he finally put down, squinted at my card and listened to my story... He took to the telephone and spoke with someone on the balcony, whom I gather was the Director of the several libraries... This gentleman ... came down to see me, holding a Xerox of my letter, and thereon was a notation ... that they would support my project. He was mightily perplexed by the fact that I had never heard from them. His note was dated May 4th, my letter March 28th. So he gave me assurances that I could use the materials—they have the original Cook voyage drawings—which are in the Botany Library and the Zoology Library. As for photography, that [approval] would have to come from the Director's Office. Apparently a Mr. Waight (or some such name) was the recipient of the now missing letter of the which the Xerox remained, but he was no longer in that post. A Mr. Cohen now was in that spot. So it was another pair of phone calls... On the way to Mr. Cohen, I was shown the Zoology Library, a curious vaulted aisle-like room, quite narrow, and the Botany Library was identified for me, and up a series of back stairs and narrow passages—really quite primitive—we arrived in what were tiny, inadequate facilities wherein I met Mr. Cohen. He tut-tutted, and begged ignorance what with his recent arrival in his post. However, there was a Mr. Woollcombe, a young man with much hair, who did recall my inquiry and as he was involved in photography matters, he would indeed process my requests. He searched files, Mr. Cohen searched registers, but there was no record of a reply or action or whatever. Much consternation by everyone but me. I was not complaining, not critical. I merely wished to know how to proceed in these matters. I was told that I should study the drawings, etc. and make notation of those I wished to photograph, and then I was assured that I would receive permission. In turn, I told them that I would do nothing with these other than study them, but if I did publish I would sent them a copy of each item and seek specific permission for this. So they turned back to the question of the missing letter... My, what a hassle...
Meanwhile Mila and the boys were viewing the collections... On my exit from the general library, I had noted a display of Cook materials, and just beyond it the entrance into the Science Museum. I checked over the Cook displays—must return to them for detailed note-making—and went into the Science Museum where I was certain I would find the boys and Mila, And there they were.
We ate in the Restaurant—such as it is—in the Natural History Museum, and toured a bit more in the Science Museum, where I purchased several publications and noted others I should get. Then, in a light rain, it was off to the British Museum... There I filled out another small form, signed the register, and I received ticket C66033 which admits me to the Reading Room, and thus the Map Room. Then, it was up to the Print Room, which is open only at strange hours and the exhibition room is closed for redecorating. So it was up by elevator with an ancient attendant. A woman attendant had me sign the register, and she assumed that I wanted to see prints. I finally made it clear—she saw my official paper—that I was to obtain a ticket. Ah! So a nice young man came over, cleared up matters, gave me my ticket and informed me of some of the procedures to be used. So that was accomplished.
We exited the British Museum—still raining—went to the Tube and headed for Victoria. From there we went to Woolworths' food dept where we purchased viand for our supper. We managed a nice veal with a mushroom soup sauce (a touch of Mila's sherry), and with salad and vegetables we had a veritable gourmet meal.
After dinner it was review of materials and writing up the ledger and this record. Now with the rain outside, and a cup of Sanka by me, it is late and time to plan for the morrow.
[Added to the next day's entry:] About 10:35 or so, last night, a knock at our door revealed the Resident Manager, Mary Henderson, who announced to us that we had visitors coming. I said, "When?" She said "Now!" I raced downstairs—the boys were in bed and Mila was as well—I alone dressed—and there was Evelyn and Albert Sessler. The confusion was considerable. I explained matters. Albert was telling Evelyn that he was right, it was too late. Meanwhile it continued to rain. We exchanged a few words—they had just gotten in and Evelyn was manic (probably no sleep for an extended period)—and I suggested they call me tonight. Well there has been no call, and if I do not hear from them tomorrow a.m., I may call at their hotel. I gather they will leave for Paris Monday or Tuesday and see Ily Szabo. A brief visit would have been nice, but not at 11 pm with all of us dead tired. So, off they went about 11 pm, in the rain, heading for Victoria. Their car was deficient (a Volvo they picked up here) and whether that is straightened out I do not know. Well, if anything develops on this score, I shall note it down.MILA JEAN: Bad sleep (caffeine?), up 8:30. Geo out at 9:00 to photography store. We finally got off about 9:30 to South Kensington—Museum of Natural History & Science Museum (cars, diesels, trains!). Lunch there. On, via tube, to British Museum—had begun to rain (seemed cold to me—50°?) Long endless stairs & waits for Geo to get permit pass to use reading rooms. Had interesting time in manuscript room: Magna Charta, letters from John & Sarah Churchill, Robert Burns autobiography of first love affair—at age 15!
Gourmet (home cooked) meal of veal & mushroom soup (with sherry & spices), green beans, potatoes & Neapolitan ice cream.
Evelyn & Albert arrived here at 10:30 PM in the rain. Kids & I in bed. Geo went down to speak to them. Told them to call next evening. Had good sleep: 10:00 PM to 9:00 AM.
GEORGE: All of us slept later than usual—probably a good sign that we are adjusting well—and the morning thus was truncated. We used the Denbigh Street laundromat and concurrently the boys and I went shopping. I did tolerably well except I failed to get the vegetables I had intended. Also it began to rain. Nevertheless, we did accomplish much, and was ready for excursion by about 12:30. We went to Westminster [and] took a tour of the Houses of Parliament, which was satisfactory for an introduction. I might return later on my own to see some aspects more clearly. One note, the guide was always poking at "the girls," and I expect one day to hear that women's lib will have tacked him to the door.
Westminster Hall is a grand interior, truly splendid. A rather dark and almost gloomy interior, it must have been a special effect when lighted by torches, or whatever was used. With that completed—and fortunately the weather was holding up—we went to the Abbey. We did not cover all of it, but we did see the transepts, the cloisters, the treasures, and the chapter house. Services in the Abbey cut short our visit (we shall return for a tour of the nave, the lady chapel, etc.), and this we did the exteriors of the two buildings. Photography is not allowed in the church, but apparently it is O.K. in the cloisters...
We returned in the later afternoon and the evening has been routine.MILA JEAN: Good day. No rain to speak of. Even saw the sun briefly! At 10:00 went out to "do" the laundry and shopping. Bad timing because all of S.W. London doing same thing. Met interesting American couple named Dale from Oregon State on six month sabbatical leave. Had previously stayed at 64 Eccleston Square but didn't get back in. Gave me tips on how to survive in England. Wash cost one 10p piece [and] one 5p. Dry costs two 5p pieces (about 65¢-70¢). Not cheap! Horribly crowded with people, children with gum—steamy too. Geo came then, loaded down with groceries, and we staggered home with various bags & suitcase, umbrellas, etc. Ate ham sandwiches [and] then sallied out about 12:45 for Westminster. Had an hour's tour of Houses of Parliament by a very quaint old gentleman-guide & very thorough. Never been in them before. House of Lords quite posh.
From there proceeded to Westminster Abbey. Most interesting part was the chapter house with "goldish" 700-year-old floor so we had to put on padded slippers over our shoes beforehand. All stained glass windows through which the sun suddenly came out. "Treasures of the Abbey" interesting with wax effigies of such notables as William & Mary & Queen Anne, my old friends. William, especially, looked like the TV star who played him in the First Churchills. Cloisters also very charming, filled with inevitable pigeons. Walked down bridge a way and George [sic] took many photographs.
Once home, at 4:30 time out for crackers cheese & sherry. Dinner of baked beans, peas, porked [sic] chops (garlic salted) grilled, etc. Very good & God knows it saves on the money. Paul & Matthew have baths. I washed my hair. Still no rain.
Note: "Ophelia," the maid, gets a phone call every morning at 10:00; consequently "dusts" about in hall (especially around phone area) for a half an hour beforehand. When phone calls comes, she settles down for a lively chat (spoken back in volatile Spanish) whilst sitting in a chair. The Dales say that the Spanish maids spend all their time "cleaning" the hall, but little in the rooms themselves. Mary, our caretaker, has a husband (Norman) who "drives" all week and a chow dog who barks. Mary smokes a lot and coughs a lot—very "chatty."
GEORGE: We gathered ourselves together and went for a general promenade to the north, by Eaton Square and Belgrave Square. We also checked out the BOAC and Pan Am depots which were on our way. The Eaton Square area, part of the Grosvenor Estate, is very posh indeed. Built in the same period as much of the area, 1825-35 (according to my eye and the Blue Guide), it is one of the more elegant and includes embassies. There is a stateliness without frumpery to this architecture. It is predictable, restrained, and in some ways dull; yet in matters of scale and proportion it does quite well for itself. There is a lesson here for architects yet. Also, the emphasis on plantings, if only in pots or boxes, is really remarkable. Even from our rear window in #7 we see them on improvised terraces below and to the sides of us.
Well, after a meagre lunch at a nearby Wimpy's, we returned to the flat. I called the Sesslers—lo and behold, they were in—and arranged for them to visit with us tomorrow night at our place. Once that was settled, we were off again.
We walked via Francis Street, behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral, past the Army & Navy Stores to Victoria Street. Then down to Westminster Pier. There we took the launch to Greenwich. The weather was gray and seemed always on the verge of rain. Indeed it spit at us several times...
The Greenwich Hospital is truly impressive. We only went into the National Maritime Museum, and even so saw only a portion of it. I went for orientation, and did see the public Cook display and purchased several items for study... We were returning by way of the river, hence we had to watch our time rather carefully. We did a quick view of the Cutty Sark (the Constitution was more interesting) but the main point was how little cargo space there was aboard such a vessel.
There is much more for me to see out at Greenwich, and I hope to work in the old observatory. But first things first. It is remarkable—always is—how seeing buildings change them insofar as impressions via photos are concerned. The Queen's House by Inigo Jones—part of the National Maritime Museum—is so different that that my preconception had it. It is much more intimate and somehow less formal than I had expected. It merits a return and more careful photography by me when there is decent light. The National Maritime Museum is logical and well presented. I did not have adequate time to see everything, but I did get a feeling for the place. I have some reading to do before I return. I think I shall give the place a careful perusal in detail before I approach the director's office, as per his suggestion. I want to be informal...
Well there is much to do. I still need to look at material acquired today. And tomorrow we shall take care of chores and visit the National Gallery. Mila will check on theatres, I shall check on the train to Greenwich.
MILA JEAN: Long walking today. Up early (7:30); breakfast of bacon (?) [sic], scrambled eggs, etc. Dales came by to pack & left some maps, etc. Walked out to B.O.A.C. & Pan Am terminals, investigated. Long walk (in rain) to Eaton Square (beautiful—Neville Chamberlain lived there) many Bentleys & Rolls Royces around. Ate lunch at Wimpy's at Victoria (I really loathe their hamburgers), back to house to "rest" for half an hour. Started out—on foot—for Westminster—down to river & board boat bound for Greenwich. Luckily stopped raining. It was wonderful—with a friendly articulate young guide, but God, does it get cold & windy & wet! Saw "Fagin's" area—oily & ugly; site of Old Globe, etc. Arrived at 2:00, walked about. Got into museum 2:30 where Geo went mad with Captain Cook memorabilia. Had snack at restaurant. Went to Queen's House, designed by Christopher Wren [sic]. Went aboard Cutty Sark—very crowded. Hurried back to boat bound for Westminster: smaller, colder, unnarrated and cold. (Feel an earache coming on.) Got back home after 6:00 for supper of grilled cheese or ham or peanut butter sandwiches & salad. Geo & I had hot baths. Finally [the sky] cleared off—no rain at night.
GEORGE: Began by dropping film off at Wallace Heaton. From there we went grocery shopping and it took all four of us to carry things back. Once this was settled we were off to town... We began our in-town visit by stopping at Charing Cross Station where I ascertained procedures to take the train to Maze Hill (by National Maritime Museum). This would be 11p one way, with trains about every 20 or 30 minutes. From there it was up the Strand, through Covent Garden, Shaftesbury Street etc. for theatre tickets. Mostly for Mila, but I shall go to several [plays] with her. These expenses will not be included in my charges to the grants, and I am keeping a separate record of these and other major purchases starting on page 51 of the ledger. Thus they can be subtracted before I do the 20% accounting, along with other specially recorded expenses.
The National Gallery is noticeably spruced up since my visit of 1966. And the work still goes on. I did a general walk-through, purchased some relevant study material and called it a first visit. As usual the Reserve Collection is an amazing grab bag. Some well worth exhibiting pieces, and some real curios. You could stock a major collection with items from the Reserve...
This evening Evelyn and Albert Sessler came by to visit, and we had a nice chat. They are on a three month tour of Europe, and they have picked up a Volvo. Brave man to drive here—left hand drive and left hand traffic. My my—would I do it?
MILA JEAN: Sun came out! Up early 7:45. At 9:00 we went forth (more maps & supplies from the Dales) for grocery shopping at Woolworths—home loaded down. Out at 10:30 to Charing Cross station (to check rail times), thence to Aldwych Theatre [and] Covent Garden for theatre tickets (ending up spending about £18.00 for ten theatre tickets, including two to see Nureyev dance!).
Interesting seeing market & fruit men around Covent Garden (there is a kind of apple here called "Granny Smith"—they're green).
Went to National Gallery for lunch—horribly crowded and, though cheap enough, not awfully tasty or clean. "Sweets" in abundance.
Went around with kids for 1½ hours while Geo went alone. Two more theatre tickets—then home. Got card from Greece from Delphi—she may arrive in about ten days.
GEORGE: Began this day by doing some shopping (by myself) and discovered a "new" supermarket (Coopers) very close to us on Wilton Road. Made a number of purchases there. They have a decaffeinated coffee there—instant—CaffeeHag (sp?) [sic]. Then off to the post office to purchase stamps, and then over to the bank where I obtained our checkbook (but forgot to ask what our £ balance would be—it was $1,000 deposited—must do that on Thursday). Also cashed $100 in travelers checks and received £41.03 at exchange of 2.42¼... Once the financial matters were settled (in the morning) I was off to the British Museum (Natural History). There I separated from the family and went first to the Botanical Library...
Soon it was time to reunite with family for lunch... So we all had lunch in the Science Museum and then split up again.
I checked over, very briefly, the photography display—fairly impressive—in the Science Museum. Then purchased a couple of books in the bookstore, and back to Natural History. Located the Zoology Library, rang the bell and a young lady—after some minutes—came and opened up. This turned out to be the librarian herself, Mrs. Datta. We had an excellent chat and she seemed quite interested in my project... Mrs. Datta recommended two books for me, one the Rienits Early Artists of Australia which I had knowledge of, and the other, Bernard Smith['s] European Vision and the South Pacific, Oxford, 1960. This was a real find, clearly relevant to my project. Datta told me it was in paper[back].
So from that experience—quite positive—we walked to Harrods. But after a short time there, the boys seemed close to passing out. We returned to the flat, left the boys, and Mila and I went back out. We headed for Charing Cross Road and there at the Oxford University Press outlet I bought the Smith book. Up to Foyles and asked after the Rienits. They did not have it. (Shame!) Mila and I got additional theatre tickets. With that done, back late to the flat. Had dinner and turned to record keeping. In the midst of this, circumstances required me to defrost the fridge in #8 (the boys' room). This was a mess, but I used the time for some review of books, etc. purchased.
So it was a busy but profitable day.
Tomorrow, alone, I excursion to Greenwich to make contact there.
MILA JEAN: Very busy day. Geo went to market 8:30—new "super" market. We all left about 9:30 for South Kensington Natural History & Science Museum. Spent 10:00-11:30 "doing" Science (ate 11:30-12:00) , then spent 12:00-1:30 seeing rest of it: fabulous, especially photography. At 1:30-2:30 dragged up to Harrods, children obviously tired & out of sorts. Saw most of "Food Halls" & were going to books, but Geo decided then & there to take kids home & go out by ourselves. Home to Victoria at 3:00, dumped them and out again! Visited Oxford & Penguin bookstores, Foyles (bought theatre costumes book) and three more theatres for tickets. Last one was in Mayfair Hotel. Started home but ended up on train going wrong direction! Took half hour to clear up the mess. Home by 5:30 or so. Meal of "steak," corn & instant mashed potatoes.
Letter from Mom by 4:30 post. Wrote letters & cards. Have sore throat & sniffles.
GEORGE: Today began the second week in London. We're developing a routine, with the advantages coming from it. I do a spot of marketing first thing in the morning. Sometimes alone, other times with one or more of the family. Then it is off on whatever tops the day's register.
Today I went to Greenwich by train. That part went without difficulty and I exited at Maze Hill, a real whistle stop (I must photograph it next time) but it is only a short walk from the National Maritime Museum. I went in and asked for Mr. Waters, the Keeper. It was he who had answered my letter. Well, Commander Waters was on holiday until Monday, but Mr. Stimson, Assistant Keeper in the Navigation Department, came down to meet me. He kindly took me up to his area for a chat. He pointed out that while the Department of Navigation and Astronomy was the one responsible for putting up the Cook exhibit, the matter of the pictures came under a different Department, that of Pictures (which includes prints, drawings and photographs). There is also a Department of Manuscripts and one called Library. Mr. Stimson kindly took me to the Picture Department... They are rather particular about photos, and they do have a considerable number of negatives, but I [was] informed that there is a period delay in making prints, and further, the purchase of a photograph "does not carry with it the right to make a reproduction in any form." They allow handheld no-flash photography in the museum, but glass on paintings create nasty reflections...
Once outside I decided to take advantage of the clear (sic) and sunny day for some photography... Two rolls completed, I decided to head back home. Upon arrival at Victoria, I picked up the film from Wallace Heaton. I felt that the processing is a bit too much, and thus asked that they reduce the time by 10%. This elicited some surprise, but it went down on the sheet...
Well so much for that. The evening was clearing up matters and doing a bit of writing.MILA JEAN: Geo to Greenwich alone. Me out to Sloane Square with kids—to Smith bookstore, bought a Dorothy Sayers Peter Whimsey [sic] book, Matthew got a car, Paul a book. Went up & down Kings Road looking at the swinging shops—being posh & mod, Bought Geo a pair of tongs at Peter Jones store in Sloane Square, On to home 11:30 for lunch. Off to theatre—Aldwych for Old Times. Strange play—what do white & earth colors mean?
GEORGE: The day began with my visiting Coopers for purchases for the day, and thence off to the bank. There I exchanged $100 in travelers checks and received £41.03. Also checked on my balance in our account, and that was £412.34. We also received our first billing for the rooms. Seven nights less deposit £42 less £12 or £30. That means we are paying about $13.50 for the two rooms per night. This is a real bargain considering all things.
I then took the tube to South Kensington. Walked a bit on Exhibition Road, went into the Science Museum... I then stopped in the Geological Museum. After a walk around I do not feel that it can be of use to me, and I think I shall bypass contacting Mr. Thackery and let him go on his holiday in peace... I spent the bulk of the day in the Zoology Department Library...
I've been reading Bernard Smith's book European Vision etc. in the evenings and early mornings. It is a good work (so far) with copious citations. It should prove to be very helpful.
I've given some thought to my report to the American Philosophical Society, and have a working title for it and perhaps either a paper or an article, "The Age of Exploration and the Uses of Art":
a) The Voyages of Captain Cook
b) The Missing Artist on the Lewis & Clark Expedition
c) Scientific Illustration and Romantic Naturalism
etc.
Clearly a) would relate to the present project. Tomorrow I think I shall check on a few of the artists in the catalog of the Print Room at the British Museum. We may go to the Tower first, and then back to the Museum.MILA JEAN: Kids & I walked down to Westminster Abbey—saw tombs of Kings (Queen Elizabeth I, William & Mary, Charles II & Queen Anne together! ). Walked up Birdcage Walk to Buckingham Palace 11:00 AM—crowds of people, though [the Changing of the Guards] ceremony didn't begin for thirty minutes. Half of time couldn't see at all. Walked back for lunch 12:45. Me out at 1:45-2:00 to Waterloo Station—horrible job of getting to Old Vic, only to find box office had been moved. Finally got tickets, but seems that they try to make it difficult. After walking a way in wrong direction finally got back. Cold bad. Dinner: pork chops, chips, green beans.
GEORGE: After marketing, went over to Wallace Heaton to deposit the film, and being recognized they gave me the film I took in from Wednesday's session. The interiors were fine, but the exteriors were a bit overexposed. This despite my reducing development time by 10% (or so I was assured). I'm not certain wherein lies the problem—a point to work out before I take photos for record...
We went to the Tower of London. It is interesting but so full of people it is a bit like shopping during the Christmas rush. I doubt if my impressions or photography are worthy to the monument. The one spot most impressive to me was the Chapel of St. John. This, a pure Norman interior, quite small but very austerely elegant. The Jewel House is impressive for its logistics as for its contents. I have to admit, the armor and the old towers appeal more to me as objects for study.
The family split after a lunch (of sorts). They went back to 64 Eccleston Square and I to the British Museum...
I reread my observation of yesterday on a possible interrelationship of the three papers. Now I think I shall go for a short coherent monograph—hopeful me—in which I discuss the three cases. What I may do is shorten and "simplify" the CAA paper to stress the difference between the picturesque and romantic naturalism and suggest the influence of the exploration aspect for AQ submission. I'll use the Scandinavian material to highlight the romantic naturalism aspect. Must also give proper citation to Bernard Smith. I now think the three-part long essay is feasible, and I can cover part three without damage to the larger project.
So, regardless of any other accomplishments, I have clarified this aspect of scholarship. It also gives me a manageable goal to work for and explain to others.MILA JEAN: Tower of London. Steep winding staircase to Bloody Tower of great interest. Ate opposite—not too good. Home at 12:30-1:00. Did laundry with Paul's help. Still tedious. Wrinkled Geo's shirts by too-hot & dry job. Ate "out" at Old Kentucky—pretty sad. I had "lasagne"—not much taste, let alone Italian. Came home, read & wrote a letter to Glenda.
British couple uses phone every night—"Hello? hello? Are you there?"(!)
GEORGE: As these things sometimes happen, I awoke and while not quite alert to matters had several thoughts about my project, and quite surprisingly these thoughts were concise and relevant. So I got up and proceeded to outline them in my notebook. Within a fairly short time I had a short book outlined insofar as chapters and orientation are concerned. It is a development of the plans of Thursday. In brief it is as follows:
Preface
I Introduction
II The Need for Pictorial Documentation
III The Cook Voyages
IV L'Description de l'Égypte
V The Missing Artist on the Lewis & Clark Expedition
VI Scientific Illustration and Romantic Realism
VII A Conclusion
The title remains as before: "The Age of Exploration and the Use of Art."
I think it may all work out fairly smoothly and well—I think. With that sort of focus now at hand, I can see the parts more clearly and what I can or should be doing while here in England. The Cook role is more rationally conceived, and Chapter VI will permit me to include the Scandinavian material...
In the later morning we went shopping for the boys at Selfridges, and then over to the Wallace Collection. As before, impressive pile and collection. The glass on the paintings is terribly distracting... I was intrigued by the Dutch animal/bird pieces as well as some curiously light van Huysums. This aspect of natural history representation still escapes me somehow. I feel there is a tie-in and simply do not see the bridge. I need to learn more about Flemish and Dutch history or whatever to make the tie which I feel must exist. Possibly through the great printers?
From the Wallace, after a lunch, we went over toward Gray's Inn. At our tube station on High Holborn, just at the markers for the City [of London], is Staple Inn, which according to the Blue Guide is 1586 (last restored in 1950). After a walk around Gray's Inn—rather unprepossessing—we went to John Soane's Museum. There, as I recall, we could traverse more in 1966 than now. But it still remains a rather special treat of a place. We then returned to quarters where I read for the remainder of the afternoon.
In the evening, Mila and I went out to the theatre. Saw Kean. I must confess the matter of dates is, for me, disturbing. I need to put these clear in my mind. The play was well done, [but] had some inconsistencies—such as 1820's and taking a steamship to New York. Ah well.
At any rate, that accounts for the day.MILA JEAN: Interesting day, though I was too cold. Went to Selfridges via the Tube. Bought books and a magic game for Matthew. From there to Wallace Collection, gorgeous house, beautiful French art. Past Irish House (must go back). At a "Buster's" on same street—good food! I had asparagus soup, roasted ham/cheese/tomato sandwich & fresh orange juice. Went by Tube to Lincoln's Inn and to John Soane's museum (really one of the most interesting of all) his own house & his own collection. On home—Geo cooks "stew," I wash Matthew's hair.
See Kean this night. Really good, though almost three hours long (two intermissions). Alan Badel marvelous comic technique. Interesting though "talky" Sartre play but mainly vehicle for lead male. What is real (acting) & what isn't? seems to be theme. Had a gin & tonic beforehand (rained).
GEORGE: The later morning was spent making a number of photographs of scenes and sites familiar to us in our routine here. Included was the tube station and Victoria Station as well as some street scenes. Continued my studies of Bernard Smith, especially the bibliography which I both annotated and made notes on re: use of library facilities. I have decided to go back to the British Museum tomorrow and seek a ticket to the manuscript room so that I can see the several which have illustrations relevant to Cook. Then on the morrow following (Tuesday) it will be the V[ictoria] & A[lbert] with a request to use the library there. Wednesday should be the National Maritime Museum again. As the data interacts I think I can be a little more efficient in my work here.
About 1:30 pm we walked down to the Tate. The Tate on Sunday is a bit much, and what with the crowds and a tired family, all I was able to do was to survey the arrangement of the collections and purchase some materials. The Tate is much refurbished and it looks quite well in the interior. The Turners are much better displayed than last time [i.e. George's previous visit in 1966]. There is a special exhibit entitled Constable: The Art of Nature, that is both interesting and clearly relevant to my work. It comes down July 4th, next Sunday, so I shall devote Thursday afternoon to it and to the Tate—all alone...
MILA JEAN: Walked around area here, taking pictures of things we do: Woolworths, Victoria Station, Underground—in morning. Lunch here—bean with bacon soup & sandwich. Walked to Tate Gallery in Millbank down Vauxhall Rd. Huge crowd waiting for it to be opened. It's a fantastic gallery (particularly liked Turner & Pre-Raphaelites) but too many people, too little circulation of air—felt suffocated. Walked back through big rain shower which stopped when we got back home.
Had sherry, beefsteak, potatoes, green beans & cookie. Washed Paul's hair. Two American girls from Berkeley "take over" the bathroom every other night, washing their long hair & taking baths (takes hours!).
GEORGE: Several local area errands (such as grocery shopping etc.) occupied part of the morning. Continued my reading, and after an early lunch was off to the British Museum via Wallace Heaton (where I dropped off a roll of film). At the British Museum I first went to the Director's Office (as they call it), and after waving my reader's ticket got admitted by the attendant. After a brief consultation I received a ticket for the manuscript room. Mila and I visited several sections upstairs, largely Roman England, and then I went to the Print Room for its afternoon opening. (The boys were at home)...
Tomorrow I shall make contact with the V&A. There is at least one book there I want to read on early English watercolors. And I might excursion to Haymarket to New Zealand House where a bookseller by the British Museum informs me Angus & Robertson maintain a bookshop (he believes). And pretty soon I best get back to the Natural History Museum to work over—a tedious job considering the state of my knowledge—the historical drawings. I best check my bibliographies before I go too far.
A side note on prices. Food on the whole is not cheap. Lamb is probably the best buy, with pork close behind. I here speak of the better cuts of meat. Prepared and packaged is more expensive than in the little butcher shops, but I haven't attempted that (I do most of the marketing early in the morning). Minced steak (better quality hamburger or ground beef) is about 90¢ US per lb. Roasting chickens are about all the chickens you see and likewise fairly expensive. Beef varies depending on the cut and source. Cheese varies widely with many types and many sources. Since packaging is so very different it is hard to compare on many items whether in cans or boxes. Bread is in rather small loaves with thin slices. Similarly, eating out (which we do little of) varies, and a sandwich can be anywhere from 18¢ up to 75¢. London is as various as it comes, and I haven't the time, the inclination, nor the reason to scout it all out. As far as I can tell these quarters and our mode of catering are well within our budget and generally fairly cheap.MILA JEAN: Good day. Went shopping—bought many things. Came home & unloaded, then I set out on foot to hunt for lodgings for Kris, to no avail. Geo & I went to British Museum together, I suffering from too hasty eating of a peanut butter sandwich & chips. We went around together to see clocks display, etc., then he left me at 2:00—to meet at 4:00. I walked around Greek sculpture & wrote some cards, then back to manuscript room (still my favorite). Bought a seal (of wife of Charles I) for £1.79, then met Geo. We went to Victoria Post Office & mailed letters, then bought bottle of sherry & cheese biscuits. Wrote letters & read up on V&A museum. Geo & I took baths.
[on a British Museum postcard of Shakespeare, addressed to the UMKC English Department in which Mila Jean had been a part-time lecturer since 1964:]
If my feet and legs hold out, I may just make it. This tour is almost too much for even me (my walking to & from the Plaza is nothing). I do believe it's the millions of steps which do me in! It's still cool, though the sun comes out occasionally. We are seeing and doing much. Saw Pinter's latest play the other day with Vivien Merchant, his wife. Tried to get tickets for Olivier's Merchant but all sold out. We settled for Paul Scofield and Christopher Plummer instead. Tell Fred I saw the Hanzel [sic] and Gretel hotel today (all sold). Every place in London is filled to the brim, mostly with Americans. We have tickets for two Old Vic productions (one Coriolanus). [signed] Mila Jean.
GEORGE: After marketing, went off to the Victoria and Albert. What a grand conglomerate. Here too evidence of improvements since my earlier visit. Actually visited only a few of the galleries, and this unsystematically. I did consult with Public Relations and learned that using the print room in the Library was no great problem. Just sign in in the Print Room, and I was given to understand that I should have little trouble in getting a Readers Ticket for the Library (which I did not visit this time)...
Last night, as I was readying for sleep, I realized that the tentative title "The Age of Exploration and the Uses of Art" was both ambiguous and stilted. I need something more self-evident. Possibly I can use "The Artist and Scientist in the Age of Exploration." Certainly this is a better one, but suggests an equality of treatment which is wrong. "Art and Exploration" may be more succinct and more specific. A subtitle might then be "The Uses of Art in Scientific Expeditions"—ugh, no, too clumsy. "A Study of the Uses of Art for Scientific Voyages." No as well. Perhaps, "Art and Exploration, 1780-1850," with subtitle "Art in the Service of Science during the Age of Exploration" [last five words scored through]. That might be it...
Well it is the National Maritime Museum tomorrow. I need to reread my notes from last time to ensure I have print room procedures clear...
[After calculating the past week's "general family expenses" and 25% of these "for personal maintenance":] The 25% factor is admittedly arbitrary. I am not reducing family expenses by their local transportation (which could be up to £2.50 or so per week), but on the other hand I travel more. Are my outside meals or needs more? There is such as my pressing of trousers, purchase of newspapers, and whatever. After due consideration, the difference between 20% and 25% is about £2 a week. Perhaps this is excessive to cover the difference, but I think not. I am spending (based on 25%) less than $3.50 per day for maintenance and I am haggling over about 65-70 cents a day. No, I shall stick with the 25%.
MILA JEAN: Went to Victoria & Albert Museum—walked right from subway into Museum at 10:00 AM. What a fabulous place! My favorite parts are period rooms, costume collection, and musical instruments (sliding out trays & recorded music). Matt & Paul strangely enough related more to cartoons of Franco-Prussian War, rather than any other exhibit.
Went to Piccadilly searching for book at New Zealand House for Geo but no soap. Back home. Paul & I did [a] wash, & then I washed out a jacket at home. Had elaborate meal: roast beef, fresh mushrooms, mashed potatoes, fresh raw veg & fruit salad, dessert. Mountains of dishes to wash, though! We're supposed to go to Greenwich, if Kris doesn't arrive first. American girl on phone calling "Edna" is getting on my nerves. Ditto her heavy-footed kid above.
£42 a wk rent—$200 for us to live.
GEORGE: The day was spent at Greenwich. After marketing and miscellaneous matters, we went to Charing Cross Station. There was a wait there, so I put the 180mm lens on and shot test exposures in the station (which has skylights). Also shot a couple of 80mm shots for our series "Going to the Natural Maritime Museum." We got there in good order (Matthew was quite enthused about the train ride, which is electrified as a subway but with train-type cars). At the museum I concentrated on getting my work done in the print room...
I was able to get in a few photographs outside, including several test 180mm, and then it was time to return to Maze Hill. The 4:07 was cancelled and we ended up in Cannon Street Station—a jam up if ever I saw one. We did manage to extricate ourselves, find our way to the Underground (station under construction) and return home...
So I managed to make progress. I think tomorrow morning might be spent seeing the things at the V&A so I can see about setting up a photography date. The afternoon I shall spend at the Tate and see the Constable show before it comes down. Friday, back to the British Museum and see how far I can get in completing that study.
As we finished supper we received a call from Kris Huffman. Mila went out to meet her outside of Victoria Station. I wonder if I shall see either before 10 pm.
MILA JEAN: Went to Greenwich by rail—a very interesting experience. Just missed a train at Charing Cross—waited almost an hour for another. Train very antiquated. Leapt off at Maze Hill. Had nice long stay at Observatory, lovely sunny day; walked up high hill—looked at London through telescope. Came down & met Geo for lunch, fighting off hordes of British schoolchildren. Spent two hours going through museum again. Nelson collection steam ships—even had a real 1960 first class cabin of a Canadian boat! Home late (6:00), due to cancelled train & sitting at Maze Hill for 45 minutes.
Kris phoned at 7:30(!) from Victoria Station, I went up to get her, eventually found [her] a room at 101 Belgrave Road. Came back here after lugging suitcases etc. all the way up there & she had dinner here. She brought us three bottles of wine. She left at 10:00.
GEORGE: Began by taking in a roll of film to Wallace Heaton and picking up the one taken on the 25th and 27th... Also went to the bank and drew out £50. I must make a decision soon on how much more should be transferred into this account. Spent the morning and early afternoon at the V&A... Everyone is very cooperative in the various museums. I feel that I shall cover all that I need to see in good time and order... I did take out some time to look at the early medieval ivories and enamels, and the tapestries.
From the V&A I went to the City [of London] to Australia House for the purpose of buying (if possible) the Rienits Early Artists of Australia. When I finally found the bookshop I discovered the door locked and a sign indicating that the Angus & Robertson bookstore was closed with the last day of operation 30 June. Ah well, it is hard to tell if they had the book anyway. I shall return to the Zoological Library to read in it before I depart London, and if it is worth my purchase I shall pursue the matter further.
I returned home then. Oh yes, Australia House was filled with people busy reading papers from home which are well distributed here and there in the large vaulted reading room.
After a brief rest I walked over to the Tate. I looked more closely at the Constable exhibit—which was less impressive than I first thought, but quite interesting nevertheless. Then I looked at the newly opened exhibition of contemporary sculpture, a gift of sixty large sculptures by seven people. By and large it was—for me—dull and really not too good. William Turnbull struck me as the most interesting of the lot, and he was not all that exciting. They seem bound and determined to show no influences of Moore, Hepworth, Butler, etc. and thus their work sprawls in a kind of fussy minimal, color-field way.
Then back to headquarters to rest. My left shoulder has been giving me fits all of a sudden. I felt it coming up for two or three days but I thought it would hold even or taper off. Finally took some Bufferin. I may need more.
Tomorrow the British Museum and the Print Room. Hope that can wind it up.MILA JEAN: Kids and I went to grocery shop—came back heavy laden. From there went by Tube to Sloane Square where we went to Smith's bookstore, from there to Royal Court for theatre tickets & then up King's Road. Went to Peter Jones—bought chopping block & eleven tea towels—very cute. Went back home—stopped at Woolworths. Ate lunch in room.
Left about 1:15 for the New Theatre—got a little confused but arrived about 1:45 to meet Kris. Had a lager beer at darling pub across from theatre. Performance of Rules of the Game began at 3:00, ended at 4:45 (with twenty-minute intermission). A very strange & difficult play! But Paul Scofield is gorgeous. Plowright really didn't get to me—or is it Pirandello?
GEORGE: Finished my studies (as far as I know) in the Print Room of the British Museum... My study of the drawings and prints, in the British Museum and elsewhere, has been a real learning experience. The variety of institutional organizations, the various methods of presenting and handling prints is quite informative as to modes of thinking and valuation. It would be so nice if one could simply bang away with a camera as one looks at the material. It would complicate matters for everyone but at least the British Museum's Print Room is cooperative in doing this after the fact. The elaborate forms are a bit of a nuisance.
So as things stand I've surveyed the Print Room in the British Museum, the National Maritime Museum, and the Victoria and Albert. I've reviewed the relevant material in the Zoological Library of the Natural History Museum. I still need to do the Botanical Library of the N.H.M. [Natural History Museum]. Also I should be systematic in working over, with notes and camera, the displays in the National Maritime Museum. I have yet to go out to Kew Gardens, and I have not contacted the Geographical Society. I should try to make inquiries at India House...
I also purchased a Guide to England to assist in making excursions to at least Oxford, Cambridge and Canterbury. I shall study time tables at the relevant railway terminals. Then too I've been buying postcards as they might relate to my project. Got six at the British Museum today.
Mila and the boys went with Kris Huffman excursioning today, and she will sup with us tonight. I note by my little notebook that we are scheduled for the theatre tonight and tomorrow night. So I guess I should plan a temperate day for Saturday.
This evening we saw Amphitryon 38. A shallow play well presented but really for the girdle crowd. Just goes to show that Olivier (his production) and all the trappings cannot make a significant experience or jolly entertainment out of a lightweight.MILA JEAN: Interesting day. Kris came by early, and she & I & kids went to Bermondsey Antique Market—had to go clear out to Elephant & Castle [Station], then transfer to a bus (was Matt happy!)—old news seller with one tooth assisted us. Interesting stuff for about a whole block—Paul fell in love with an old (1870?) edition of Oliver Twist —got it for £1. Matt got an old King George (?) coin for 33p. Kris got a powder pot for £7.50. From there we went to Goodge Street—had lunch at Old Kentucky—and then went to Pollock's toy museum. Fascinating—each story just one room crammed with old toys. I bought a plan of Globe Theatre & two tiny paper theatres. Staggered back. Kris & I walked (!) to Chelsea & shopped. Found interesting eating place, serving good orange drink. Shopped at Safeway—dragged all groceries back on Tube. Had fish sticks for dinner.
Went to Amphitryon. Wonderful costumes, acting & sets but awfully weak play directed by L. Olivier. Chris Plummer—good form (physically at least).
GEORGE: Kris and Mila went off for the day on a schedule not clear to me. The boys and I did the marketing, then... went out to Kensington Palace where first we went through the State Apartments. This was very interesting, and I think I shall go back one more time before we depart. I need to get the feel of the details. Then we went over to the London Museum. While interesting it lacks the space and the logical traffic which would facilitate its study. Many models—which were useful, and some unusual displays. In neither did I get enough insights, although the Palace does provide some background for "my period" which I am studying.
After a pick-up lunch, the boys and I went to St. Paul's. We did the crypt, the whispering gallery, and the stone gallery. The space is still an impressive one, but the fabric of the structure is suffering. Climbing passages in circular fashion does give one pause when the matter of planning these buildings [is] concerned. I wonder how they did it? Pick a pier and say this has a spiral staircase? Well it was a different kind of experience.
Then it was back to the flat. I rested and read and after our supper time, Kris went her way and Mila and I went to see Forget-Me-Not Lane, a very well done play which I enjoyed both for content and for production.
Thus endeth Saturday. Tomorrow morning I shall study, do photographs, and wash my hair. After lunch I think we shall go out to Osterley—with the camera.MILA JEAN: Big day. Geo took boys to London Museum, Kensington Palace and St. Paul's. Kris & I went to Harrods—walked all around hunting toy department—saw all of furniture floor—exotic bath tubs, etc. Went to "Mod" Department, bought aprons. From there went down to Fleet Street, had lunch at Cheshire Cheese (good steak & kidney & game pie, 80p, & lager beer—£1.25 with 10% service), ate with interesting older couple. He was Chairman Oriental Languages UCLA. Went upstairs & saw old tap room (barrels for tables). Went to Dr. Johnson's house and had a good look around. Interesting old Queen Anne building. From there went to Piccadilly—went to theatre & bought tickets to After Haggerty (a mistake)... Did not like play, very crude & derivative (toilet jokes, etc.). Left before it was over. Came back 5:30. Rushed through steak dinner. Went to see Forget-Me-Not Lane—excellent! Good script, acting, & unit set (six doors). Home at 11:45!!
GEORGE: Did some copy photography in the morning, and shot some views of the rooms as well. I should also do the lobby, staircase and toilet door etc. for the record. Then turned to some reading. Have tried to block in times for places like Brighton, Oxford, Cambridge, Canterbury and Hampton Court so that they won't interfere with work to be done here in London.
After lunch, we all went out to Osterley (Kris Huffman came along). All went well except they were doing track repairs on the Piccadilly Line and we all had to debark at Hammersmith and take a bus to Acton Town where we boarded another train. The same was required in the reverse. It was quite confusing at first, but in due time we arrived at Osterley. Then there was the long walk to the House. A very impressive structure which finally made sense to me now that I could see it in the round as it were. The rooms are quite splendid and it does help to visit these estates and great houses, not only for my classes, but they give me some feeling for the environment of the virtuoso, the dilettante of the period under principal investigation. For example, while reading the Guide a few minutes prior to writing this journal entry, I came across a reference to [Joseph] Banks and a bird menagerie that indicate the currency of that first voyage [of Captain Cook]. The citation is from a letter by Horace Walpole. I wonder if I should get into this more thoroughly? Ah me, there are so many leads to consider.
Only a few of the so-called State Rooms were open at Osterley—on the piano nobile, and these I studied in two complete circuits with several side returns. I had the camera along, and I took some twenty exposures there and on our return. So all in all it was a rather full day. The remainder of the evening will be spent revisiting fiscal matters. I must decide if more funds should be transferred to our account here.
MILA JEAN: Another long day. Kris came by at 9:00 AM & we walked to ceremony at Horse Guards—quite interesting & one could get close to the guardsmen—took photos. From there we walked to Buckingham Palace, & saw beginnings of second changing. But best part was getting there—through St. James Park via pond, ducks, & rose gardens.
Left & went to pub for lunch on Buckingham Palace Road—got back at 12:30-45. Just in time to leave again for Osterley (20p). Quite a way out. All would have been fine except they removed Tube service between Hammersmith & Acton Park & [we] had to queue up to get on buses (each way)—rather fun, though. Got to station & had to walk (about a mile) to the home itself. Fantastically well preserved 18th century home. Went all around it twice. Had refreshments outside old stables. Walked back by way of pond & ducks. Home trip much the same as going, except we got on a double decker (top deck, of course). Back about 6:00—had lamb chops.
Walked around after dinner with Kris (saw Dolphin Square & new school). Went to her hotel and saw her purchases. Home exhausted.
GEORGE: After taking in two rolls of film (and one for Paul and Mila) and my gray slacks/jacket to be cleaned, I headed for the British Museum. Oh yes, last night I calculated that we had sufficient funds on hand for all normal and predictable expenses, but possibly not for a major expense such as a flight to Paris or a long excursion north (or whatever). Thus I wrote to Mr. Pettey to transfer an additional $500 to our account here.
Arrived at the British Museum at opening and went as soon as I could to the Students Room, Manuscripts Department. After a bit of vagueness on my part I nailed down an empty seat (there weren't too many) and filed for five of the manuscripts I had garnered from Bernard Smith's bibliography. I must need study their catalog at some later date to ascertain how it functions. Well, after a half hour wait I was informed my volumes were so large I must remove to the adjacent room wherein they had special places for illuminated manuscripts and special materials and "large manuscripts." A place was made for me and I worked there steadily until past 3 pm, with only a 15 minute break for lunch...
Tomorrow I shall go back to Greenwich, photograph in detail the Cook exhibit and purchase photos. Hopefully, that will take care of that aspect. Wednesday, Hampton Court.MILA JEAN: Day of "cleansing." Paul went with Kris home to get her bags (came back with blisters) & Matt and I went to do wash. It gets worse each time—almost impossible to get a dryer except the 6d [i.e. old style sixpence] ones. I hate those women who work there.
Staggered back at 10:30—then hung up damp wash & went out to store with Matt. Staggered back with that. Sick of my hair for one more second, I washed it, & cleaned out my drawers (recorded purchases, etc.). Plan to wash Matthew['s hair] later.
GEORGE: Took off early for Greenwich... As I excursioned through the galleries of the National Maritime Museum, planning some photography, I began looking at the stern embellishments on the various ship models. I decided that here was an unexplored bit of "architectural" history, what with the elaborate treatment given this portion of the ships. One does see a change in style from 1680-90 to about 1810. What it all means I am not sure, but I think a brief note on the subject is worth writing up...
I took the river launch back to Westminster where I checked boat times for Hampton Court.
On return I went through a rather goodly pile of mail to discover a letter from Louis Cicotello in his guise as Acting Chairman. Burton Dunbar doesn't like his Fall schedule and wishes a change. I've replied by air letter and have kept a copy for file. Also we have notice that the Plaza Bank had transferred $1,000 to our Barclays account, but sent it to Cockspur Street and some other vice-president signed the letter. Could Pettey be on vacation—or gone? Anyhow I wrote Pettey to ignore my July 4 letter re: the $500 transfer since I suspected this one he would read and follow up. I shall drop by the Belgravia Bank later this week to learn if indeed I have an additional thousand in our account. Ah me, our efficient bankers get too efficient. At least we seem to not have the traditional money troubles.
Tonight Mila and I go to the theatre, the one in the Mayfair Hotel. Now we shall see how the rich tourists live.
We saw The Philanthropist—a clever play which Mila liked better than I...
The boys and Mila went to Madame Tussaud's.MILA JEAN: Kids & I went to Mme Tussaud's & Planetarium—really very interesting. I came skeptical but was impressed with the art with which wax figures are designed & executed. Kids loved Chamber of Horrors with all of the murderers etc.—also Penny Arcade. Planetarium much appreciated since we could sit down & it was air conditioned. Came back & rested—2:30.
Geo & I went to see The Philanthropist at the Mayfair (in Hotel). Went early & I had a gin & tonic at bar & watched the rich people. Little (350 [seat]) theatre, air conditioned. Play very amusing. I liked it better than Geo. Main character very well realized & performed—other parts not so well written (one girl had no lines!) but the author sure can write dialogue! Won best play award.
Back home 11:00.
GEORGE: Today was Hampton Court day. We started early, stopping by Wallace Heaton to turn in film and pick some up. We left Westminster Pier at 10 a.m., and somewhat more than three hours later we arrived at Hampton Court. We had lunch in the Tiltyard restaurant and then bought tickets and toured. A somber place, quite formal and austere despite later additions which were more appropriately embellished (18th century stuff). A large number of paintings on display, some quite good, but most in need of restoration. We toured guide book in hand and yet felt less well informed than we should have been. Perhaps I should have gotten one of the sound guides, but I was bestrung with photo equipment.
After touring, we attempted to obtain places on the 4 p.m. boat only to find it filled with children who should have taken another earlier craft. So we has a very hot wait for the last boat, 5 p.m., which was quite crowded. We did manage to return by 8 p.m. and hurried back to our quarters for our evening snack. The river run did introduce one aspect of life of an earlier time, that when the rivers (and canals) were the major traffic ways.
I feel I should say more about Hampton Court, but architecturally it is a conglomerate which is far less satisfying than one might wish. But the experience was worth our while.
MILA JEAN: Went to Hampton Court by boat. Got on at 9:35—left at 10:00 AM. [The boat was] Packed —[we were] out in sun whole way. Arrived about 1:45—really! Rowboats were passing us by! Gate in one lock was stuck. Got sunburned and tired. Famished—ate in Tiltyard cafe—very expensive (hamburger & chips, 65 pence). Went around—I can't say it thrilled me too much—too mammoth, baroque. Got to pier at 3:50 to find boat being packed to gills with, among others, 190 schoolchildren. (They are everywhere! ) Waited in & out of line until 4:45 with many other muttering people. Trip back a bit better, cooler (in shade) & could move about freely (eat, etc.). Got back about 8:00. Had soup & sandwiches. Really fagged. Slept until 8:00 AM.
GEORGE: This day was set aside for photographing in the print room of the British Museum... I did have a freak accident. While moving in for a close-up, my tripod head tilted forward (apparently I had not tightened it sufficiently) and the head of the cable release struck the edge of the lip of the easel. At first I thought all was well, but then discovered that I had sheared a tiny screw on the housing that is threaded for the cable release... Ah me, it must have been the heat today. Not K.C. weather, but a bit bad indoors in London which does not have resources to cope with this sort of thing...
I hit Buckingham Palace Road and Victoria just as the troops were coming down the street on their way to the changing of the guard (or was it the return?). Ah, it must have been the return for it was about 12:15 or 20 and they were on their way to Chelsea Barracks. Very much more impressive and easier to see than the changing itself. But with the bearskin caps, the wool tunics and the sun—wow!
At the bank I had the world weary teller again (foreign business) who was wilting under the heat. I couldn't hear all of his explanation [of Tuesday's $1,000 transfer to the wrong bank] what with the traffic's noise, but I gathered that [the confusion] had to do with the fact that there is nothing automatic, and besides the Cockspur branch is not part of the same operation as Belgravia, thus there is no automatic deposit of funds. Mr. Weary said he would ask that the money be transferred [from Cockspur to Belgravia]. Presumably I could have gone to Cockspur Street and have done this but I had my reservations. I think that tomorrow I might call in person and see if this did indeed happen. Ah me, the details. Fortunately the transmitting letter had my London address on it. I am not clear as to the difference between Barclay Bank DCO (Cockspur Street) and Barclay Bank Limited. No doubt tomorrow I shall find out.
After this bit of frustration, I came home, had lunch and stretched out for a needed rest. Mila is off to a matinee and I think we shall all eat out tonight.
We did at a middle class restaurant of Slavic base. The food was adequate but that was all.
I have decided that tomorrow I shall stop by Barclays Bank on Cockspur Street and see if the transfer of the $1,000 has taken place. Then I shall go up to the British Museum to see about photos from the Manuscripts Department. I'm not sure about the plans of Mila and the boys.MILA JEAN: Went walking to St. James Park with boys & bread crumbs. Fed ducks (also some baby ducks, sparrows & pigeons) & took color photos. Came back by way of store (£3.08). Took color photos of rooms. Went to Leicester Square—Charing Cross Road, bought some books. Saw Abelard & Heloise, very good. Play not as good as production, which was excellent. Set especially good—two towers on turntables, turned by actors (permanent units with grids, doors, curtains, stairs) done during blackouts. Very fluid staging. Corin Redgrave especially good—marvelous voice. Home at 5:45. Ate out at Polish? [sic] restaurant.
GEORGE: After a brief bout of marketing, we sallied forth to Trafalgar to the Barclays Bank DCO. Lo and behold, on a hot, muggy day we found air conditioning. I explained the matter of the wayward check. Much consternation and searching and after a considerable wait (fortunately cool) I was informed that the check had indeed been sent to Barclays Bank Limited, Belgravia. When I asked what the difference was between the two banks, I was informed—once again—these are two different banks. I fail to comprehend but I assume that in due course our account in Belgravia will be credited. I think I shall drift over to cash another check next week and ask for my balance. Let us hope it will be cleared by the end of next week.
Then we walked up Regent Street over to Piccadilly and looked in at St. James, a Wren church, and Albany Court and Burlington House (I should return with a camera), two arcades and finally to the British Museum of Ethnography... On our way there, we walked into one arcade, and in the book shop by New Zealand House I found another volume on James Cook and New Zealand. I had not come across it in other sources, and it is profusely illustrated. So I have additional data. I feel it quite interesting that these books, which are not really about art, do depend heavily on the drawings and paintings which are often compared with photographs. The point is clear. The artist-illustrator was a necessary adjunct to the voyages and to their recounting them.
After lunch, we took the tube to Hyde Park Corner, and there went through the Wellington Museum. From there it was back to Eccleston Square to cool off and to rest with a pick up of film on the way...
The British Museum of Ethnography is in an 1869 or so building which has very modern exhibition galleries. They plan to exhibit by themes—e.g. tribal wooden sculptures; weaving and costume in Palestine; Pre-Columbian mosaic sculpture, etc. It is tasteful and scaled to reasonable proportions.
The Wellington Museum has some good and some bad paintings. It is interesting architecture and it is clear that Wellington was quite the hero.
There is much to see and do in London. I must move ahead if I plan to do a decent job. Fortunately my work at the British Museum yesterday morning turned out O.K. Tomorrow I shall return to check the Manuscripts photo files and make out an order... Must return to the Kensington museum. Ah me, so much to do and so little time.MILA JEAN: God, is it getting uncomfortable—it must be in 80's with very high humidity. Went to Cockspur Barclay's bank to see what happened to our money (after much ado, found out it was transferred O.K.). Air conditioned!! Walked around Regent Street—Christopher Wren's St. James Church—lovely. New Zealand Bookstore—bought books. Burlington Arcade—Matt bought black cab. British Museum Department of Ethnography. Ate at Wimpys...
By tube to Hyde Park Corner to Wellington Museum (really impressive but so warm) 1:00 PM. Huge dining "gallery" with long table & 40 chairs (originally seated 100 at Wellington's banquet for his generals from Waterloo). Staggered back (burning & swollen feet) to Wallace Heaton & Woolworths—had a beer at home. Slept a bit, had baths, washed Matt's hair. Had lamb, etc. Feet still hot.
GEORGE: I went to the British Museum to order photographs and microfilms of the manuscripts and was amazed to discover the place relatively empty in the morning... I had lunch at the Museum and took a number of photos, which I trust will summarize the place. I walked the several galleries I had not yet viewed. Then I walked over to the Russell Square tube station through Russell Square and returned to the flat... After a supplementary snack, I devoted most of the remaining afternoon to reading the Beggs' book on Cook. This evening we go to the Old Vic and we see Coriolanus (sp? Apparently this is correct).
Tomorrow I think we will all go out in the Kew Gardens so that when next I go it can be alone. Monday I really should check out the V&A Library. Tuesday I think we shall try for Canterbury. I also need to check with the Post Office about their guidelines in shipping books to the U.S.
The Coriolanus was O.K. but not particularly impressive. It was done with an East German theatre floor that was cumbersome at times—and visually it was rather drab.MILA JEAN: Cooler. Got up early & was at launderette by 8:00 AM—done by 9:00. Somewhat better, though still reasonably [sic] crowded. Went to Sloane Square with kids: bookstore, Peter Jones, King's Road. Back by 11:30. Lunch in. Went out by myself in Piccadilly. Got tickets to Vivat —went down Carnaby Street, bought apron. Dinner of beef steak. To Waterloo 7:00—Old Vic. Wore longsleeved dress (never again). Got old programmes at bookstalls. Weird production of Coriolanus—all grey & white—Brechtian. Unbelievably hot—audience visibly wilted—big head in front of me partially obstructed stage. Home by 11:15.
GEORGE: We went out to the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. What with the heat—principally in the sun and in the houses—we did not cover all of it. I did see the 17th century garden "trifles" such as the pagoda and the little temples, and the ruined arch. Also toured Kew Palace and saw the exotic bird paintings of Bogdany. The role of the early botanic gardens, of which Kew is (originally) an example, the menageries, etc. relate quite closely to my general project. Indeed, there ought to be an interesting study of Orangeries, and if it hasn't been done, someone ought to do one. The role of the garden, medicinal and exotic (and there is a modest relationship), the fascination with flowers and with birds (still evident in England) must have been part and parcel of the Linnaeus development. I must pursue that point.
Well, the Royal Gardens are really quite splendid, and the Palm House by Decimus Burton, 1844-48, anticipates the Crystal Palace very well. I should make a solo trip out there to follow up on my communication from the U.S.
An interesting note—quite irrelevant to the passage above—was the appearance of a pleasure launch with calypso-type rhythms floating up from the Thames. Aboard were dancing folk, dark of color, having a ball with live music. Hardly Handel's water music, but in the general spirit.
I also stopped by Victoria to check on timetables for Canterbury. Plenty of trains both ways, so I think Tuesday we shall go.
I do hope this weather moderates a bit. The sun is nice, but it is brutal aboard the trains, and while plowing about on foot. I'm not sure it has rained once, during the day, in July.
MILA JEAN: Went by tube to Kew Gardens (direct on Circle Line) very pretty, very hot—I should get used to wearing my hat! Sun is bad. Walked—ducks, old Dutch House climatrons, by river watching boats. Ate (to me) terrible sandwiches there. (Kew Palace—George III?) Back by 4:30—thirsty! Had pork fillets. Washed hair. Paul bath. Still muggy at 9:00 PM.
GEORGE: I guess I'm not a tourist this trip. The ledger seems long but the journal seems brief. Granted I suppose I could try to say more herein, but then I guess the photos will do much of this. Well, today was clouds and much cooler. Considering all of the waltzing around it was much appreciated. We were very low on food stuffs, so the day began with marketing. A later trip (one by Mila and one by me) needed. Then I deposited two rolls of film at Wallace Heaton. Then I girded myself and went to the bank. I cashed a £50 check and inquired as to my balance. Oh yes, I forgot the prime motivation: I received a letter today from Pettey at Plaza Bank. I do hope it is the Belgravia branch of Ltd. Anyway, this prompted me to check at the bank. There I discovered that: a) my balance did not show the $1,000 or the $500; and b) my balance showed that £106 for which I have written checks ... had not yet cleared. So matters at that stage were confused. Next I went over to the Post Office to inquire as to wrapping books for mailing. The key is to leave one end open, or easy for access, for inspection while marking it Book Post.
Then it was off to the V&A. Arrived shortly after 10 a.m. and went to the Library. Discovered my British Museum Reader card will give me access to the Library. And there, to my surprise, was Marilyn Stokstad from K.U. She is hard at her book on Medieval Art, and all we did was exchange hellos. I wouldn't say we ever have been close, and indeed what more was there to say? To exchange pleasantries about our respective research would have been out of character for both of us. Also, the library is presumed to be a place of silence.
In the V&A I checked the card catalog only to discover that all my authors were not to be found. What a disaster, and how inexplicable. Then I checked my information sheets and discovered that the card catalog of authors goes back only to books acquired after 1890. A book catalog dealt with earlier material... So I spent several hours in study.
But the money matter bothered me considerably, and I left after I had studied the basic data, and returned to the bank. There I learned that the $1,000 had arrived and should be credited to my account in two or three days. And the $500, well time will tell. I guess I've learned something from all of this on the matter of funds, but I'm not exactly sure what it is. Presumably the next time I shall have it all worked out neatly and then I can demonstrate what it was I learned.
So it was back to the rooms via shopping, and I read the papers. This evening it is the theatre—The Sleuth. I hear tell it is a good play.
Tomorrow I believe we go to Canterbury. I say believe because the weather may be a factor. If it is like today, it should be pleasant but not the best for photography. Wednesday I best tackle the Botanical Library. I'm still not sure what I should do about Kew, or about India House (is this relevant to my project?) or the Geographical Society. Perhaps I shall stay on top of things well enough to do it all in good order. Then too, this is only part of the larger project.MILA JEAN: Went grocery shopping—out of everything. Went first with Geo, later with kids. Kids & I went to Horse Guards changing, then walked to St. James Park. Ate lunch there—then sat in deck chairs & watched ducks. Came back, dumped kids. Went to Oxford Circus (chaos—mobs of people), walked down Regent Street window shopping. Thence to Carnaby—Indian things—a good buy. Home at 4:00.
Geo & I left about 6:45 for Leicester Square—walked around—bookstore open. Ended up in an Indian place on Charing Cross Road. Bought me a nifty caftan at £6.50 after a "few" outfits—rushed out at 7:45—show (Sleuth) began at 8:00. Interesting show for two actors—gimmicky plot, but great audience appeal. Home by 11:00.
GEORGE: For convenience sake I shall start with the Tuesday tally... I am pleased to note that our expenses are moderate, these quarters and eating in are a major factor. Sorting out my total expenses, and the grant money, and doing other related fiscal matters is going to be a complex chore. Clearly I will have more for photography and books and related matters.
So today we went to Canterbury. A lovely cool and clear day. The train ride exposed me for the first time to English countryside (Surrey and Kent), and the agricultural side was a pleasant antidote to urban life. In Canterbury itself I was surprised at how small the town is—[population] only about 35,000. One can very easily do the medieval precincts (with about half the city walls still intact). This we did somewhat less systematically than I should have. We visited various of the "ancient places," and I took a roll of film—or should I say exposed? The Cathedral, cleaned in recent years, is honey colored. The fabric in many places is much deteriorated and restoration is an ongoing matter. There is a stone masons shop or shed in the el by the first south transept and nave, much in the earlier tradition no doubt.
The cathedral itself is quite impressive within, and while it isn't an awesome interior, it is quite distinguished. The disparate parts—and periods—hang together quite well. Adjacent to the building are some ruins from the monastic structure. There are elements of 15th and 16th century Canterbury to be seen (as well as many later ones) but a large section westish of the cathedral was gutted in the war (1942) and there is considerable modern work—mostly undistinguished—to sit on the medieval street pattern. A number of small churches, and part of the city wall, seem to have flint (what? rocks?) set within stone quoins. Made for an unusual texture. I found no references to this practice. Also gave the local library and museum a quick visit. I was interested to see that the conglomerate display, stuffed birds, Roman artifacts, book illustrations, and the lending library all together in 19th century surroundings. This was the way it was here and at home.
So it was a pleasant interlude, gave me greater insight into the country and the nature of pre-20th century England. Becket's shrine is long gone (by order of Henry VIII) but the pilgrims still come. We come with a different purpose and by modern conveyance, and we are armed with "foreign" cameras and pressing timetables; nevertheless we are pilgrims.
I would like to do more of this, but I fear that this is not too likely. There should be time for two or three more such one-day trips.MILA JEAN: Left early (9:00) for Victoria Station. Bought first class tickets to Canterbury (had whole section [of the train] to ourselves—very nice, cushy). Arrived about 11:00, walked around—quite cool—had lunch at Wimpys (kids love it, I still cannot). Saw: Gates, Cathedral, walk, Norman Tower. For some reason I had to keep going to the bathroom and couldn't find any. Finally went to public ones. Had "tea" at teashop at 3:00. (It had toilets also.) Came back by 4:45 train—got in about 6:00—ate hot dogs & bean/bacon soup later (finished 7:00). Washed underwear & myself. Wrote cards.
GEORGE: Did some marketing, and tried to mail a package of books. Discovered that the Post Office opens at 9. Also noticed that they have various early closing hours at the several offices. Well I tried again after 9:00 a.m., only then to discover that for book rate the end of the package literally had to be open—open to both the eye and to elements. This I will not do, so the package had to go at a rate higher than anticipated. But with a customs declaration attached, I sent it off.
Also, I've been trying to find a replacement shoulder strap for my camera case. The one I have has stretched and is far too long. I went from shop to shop and no one had one. I even tried Harrods. Well, tomorrow is another day. Funny, they have the pads, just not the straps. And then while on my way to the Natural History Museum I noticed that the black shoulder bag that has been my companion this past month had sprung a seam (actually a split near a seam) in a critical spot near one end of the strap. Thus I had to obtain heavy black thread and mend it. Hope it holds...
I did not finish all of my studies [at the Natural History Museum], this I can do Friday... I think a day of interlude is in order, so tomorrow shall be some other galleries, some general photography, and a continued search for a shoulder strap. Phooey, trivia takes time...
In the evening, Mila and I went to see The Chalk Garden with Gladys Cooper and Joan Greenwood. The play was well done and considerably less intense and brooding than the film. The role of Maitland in the play is a much less serious figure, and there were other factors that made the play quite a different piece than the film.
I don't mind all of the theatre going, but it does wear a bit.MILA JEAN: Took children to Regent's Park Zoo—quite a walk. It's really very nice—though one must walk through park to get to South Gate to Zoo. Note: I've never seen prettier rabbits than they have in the Children's Zoo. Also interesting: nocturnal houses—dark in daytime. Bushbaby liked my purse.
Got tickets for Fiddler on the Roof. Saw Gladys Cooper & J. Greenwood in Chalk Garden—she [Cooper] is a true "old trouper" & perfectly grand & entertaining. Greenwood has aged (all sagging & wrinkled). Beautiful Nash—Theatre Royal, Haymarket. Home by 10:30.
GEORGE: Today was a "miscellaneous" day. Began at the bank where I was informed that the $1,000 had been credited to my account and that they had also received the "additional funds." So now I am a wealthy man. I had also written Pettey asking for data, and that had been mailed last night. I should have fun closing out this amount when all is said and done. But I am learning from the process.
We then excursioned to the Dickens House. As a museum it is quaint but not overly exciting. Since Paul is on a Dickens kick, it was meaningful to him. Then we walked toward the Courtauld Galleries, and this took me back into the University of London area. An urban setting with many offices and institutes in Regency houses. My information relative to the University and the University College is basically Blue Guide, and I confess I don't completely comprehend. There is, I gather, an examining function, and some students can present themselves only for examination. Others are taught there, and function therein.
Well, we did find the Courtauld Institute Gallery behind a major construction obstacle, and there we perused the collections. All very tasteful, and the condition of the works ranged from adequate to superb. Basically a painting collection, there are drawings and prints, and except for the strange approach via an elevator much like a freight elevator to the 5th (our 6th) floor, I saw nothing on display related to the research, but it was nice to see Manet's big Follies, and the group of Cezannes.
From there we found an inevitable Wimpy's for lunch—I really have to photograph at least one—and then we went over to the General Post Office Tower and after a fairly long wait in queue, we arrived at the enclosed observation level. There we circled several times and I took some pictures through dirty glass and smog. One view of the Nash Crescent was worthwhile.
Then we took the tube over to St. James Park, walked down toward Buckingham Palace past the Wellington Barracks, classic revival (and 1834-59 according to the Blue Guide) and to the Queen's Gallery. Oh yes, the Queen was "in," and there were the early arrivals for the garden party in conjunction with meetings of the American Bar Association. The Englishmen were arriving in striped trousers, cutaways, and top hats. Well, anyway, we perused the Queen's Gallery. A very handsome little gallery, air conditioned, superbly lighted in the south wing section of the Palace. One enters from the outside and away from the Mall side so one isn't even aware of the Palace per se. A selection of Dutch pictures from the Royal Collection were on display. Considering all of the pictures at Hampton Court, Kew Palace, and Lord knows how many others, I have no idea of the size of the collections, but what was on display was very impressive. Excellent condition and beautiful presentation. And a very handsome catalog in both paper and hard cover with the copyright reserved to H.M. The Queen.
Here I did see one minor picture, by Frans Post of a View of a Village in Brazil. Since Post died in 1680 this comports well with the interest in "foreign places" which is continued in Cook I [i.e. Captain Cook's first voyage] with the views and botanizing in Rio. Indeed, this is one aspect I can pursue... the general interest in and pursuit of visual data of the natural world...
Well after this pleasant interlude, we also took in the Royal Mews (must check the derivation of the term) and this I could just as well have skipped. It is an experience but not noteworthy. From there it was but a short walk to our quarters, past Woolworths, where I bought some filets of beef for broiling. All that walking, lugging the photo equipment, required energy food.
Oh yes, I stitched up about seven inches of the strap on the camera case so it will serve until I can find a proper adjustable one.
And as I am writing this entry, Joan[n] Soulier called from Paris. Perhaps we shall see her briefly in a few days. My, life goes apace.
MILA JEAN: A walk day! At 9:15 to Victoria Bank, then via Tube to Russell Square, thence by foot to Dickens House; thence by foot to Courtauld Museum, thence by foot to Tottencourt Road to eat at (another) Wimpy's. Thence by foot to Post Office Building. Stood in line 30-45 minutes—up to observation tower (very spectacular view)—thence by foot to Goodge Street tube. There to St. James Park. Down street to Buckingham Palace (oh, our feet!). Then to Queen's Gallery. Royal Mews (coaches, harnesses, horses, saddles—best was gold & glass coach used only in coronations). Thence by foot down Buckingham Palace Road to Victoria, Woolworths & home. Whew!
Just got call from Joann in Paris. [She] Will try to get here on 19th.
GEORGE: Mila went out early to do laundry, and while I was awaiting her return, we received a call from Jim and Vera Olson. They had not only arrived in England yesterday (and were just now recovered from the time shock), they were eager to be up and at them, so at her suggestion we agreed to meet at the Tate for lunch and a go around there. With this unexpected adjustment, I did not return to the Natural History Museum, but rather spent the morning reading, going to W.C. Smith's in Sloane Square (to buy wrapping paper and twine), and such matters...
Well we got the boys some non-allowance treasures at W.C. Smith to keep them occupied in the afternoon and evening, and Mila and I went off to the Tate. Shortly after 1:00 the Olsons arrived and Jim in a very expansive mood insisted on paying for the lunch. We had a pleasant afternoon together, and I gave them a half-baked tour of English painting. The Pre-Raphaelite room was empty (why I wonder?) and the Constable room had not yet been rehung. Shocking! It had been two weeks. We did not have much time for the moderns, but we did tour that and ended in the Rothko room. I'm afraid I really don't see the significance of Rothko's last works, but I can understand how they function when an entire room is filled with them. And not all of the compositional items go horizontal, some are vertical while dominant length can be horizontal. But this subtlety in Rothko is a bit beyond my levels of appreciation.
In my tours I saw no paintings that rang any bells for my project other than the Wright experiment with the air pump and the Turner investigations into color theory. It is curious to observe what is put up in "fine arts" museums as they do not relate to my project. Subject matter as well as that thing called quality does seem to be a factor one cannot ignore as a determinent (unless it is very old such as Durer or Leonardo),
After parting from the Olsons, we returned to our quarters and had supper. I did not talk shop with Jim Olson except to ask him if we had a President of the University. He was surprised that I had not heard (I guess he failed to realize I had been gone for over a month), it was, of course, Ratchford. Probably a very prudent choice under the present circumstances.
Mila and I went to what was billed [as] a play. I nearly dozed off on several occasions. It was not memorable even though the cast had Peggy Ashcroft in it. I don't even recall the title and more need not be said.
Tomorrow we go to Oxford.MILA JEAN: Nice day. Did laundry between 7:30 & 8:30 (wasn't even open yet!). All went to Sloane Square. Bought stuff at Smith's. Walked to Tate Gallery & lunched with Olsons. (Jim bought all!) Then a "Geo-E" tour of Gallery. Sat outside with cokes. Home by 4:30.
Awful production of Lovers of Viorne—impossibly dull two-hour long interrogation in semi-darkness with two actors who do not move. (Geo disgusted—woman next to him snoring during second act.)
GEORGE: And to Oxford we did go. Very crowded trains each way, but we did find seats going and coming. Oxford is a strange (to me) mixture of the old and the new. The mixture of the ancient (still in use) and the modern, or recent historical (or should I say historical-recent) gives a kaleidoscopic impression of changing facets. Oxford itself was very very crowded on the streets, though some of the courts of the Colleges were open and uncluttered. Certainly there is no sense of campus, but the many areas of green do give a real touch of the period. But nothing will match the University of Virginia['s] old campus, or the old quads along the Broadwalk of Illinois days in 1942. The cloister here is different. This must be because of the residential aspect of the colleges.
We went directly from the station to the Ashmolean. As a structure, it is conventionally 19th century with more modern accretions to the rear. It is organized by Departments: Antiquities, Eastern, Western and an [illegible] room. The Antiquities are much in the 19th century manner with enamel cases predominating many areas. Much of the stuff is ancient of date and in acquisition. Since this was (in its origin) the first public art museum in England (1683) it is a jolt to someone like me to see accession dates of 1685 on objects.
There was an excellent group of bronzes, and the small display of drawings included Raphael, Michelangelo (in a number of items each), Leonardo, Van der Weyden, etc. My, my. The painting vary, but there are some excellent things. One curiosity (to me) was Van Huysum's self portrait. A novel experience was finding out about Jan van Kessel (1626-1679), a Flemish painter who is represented with studies of insects etc. These are part of the Ward Bequest of "Dutch" Still Life... I know nothing of Kessel and here might be a new avenue to explore. I'm used to seeing insects in flower pieces, but this devotion to what looks like a scientific illustration needs investigation. Unfortunately, the many paintings in the Ward Collection are badly in need of cleaning.
From the Ashmolean, we had lunch (which was much needed, tasted fine, but consumed much time). We wandered about Oxford, identified the History of Science Museum which was closed (I thought only for lunch) and Blackwells. We peeped into quads and I took a few photographs. It is surprising how hard it is to find specific scenic views which also are more than fragments. Because of our need to return in time for the theatre, we had to catch the 3:35 back to London, so the visit was too brief. I discovered that the History of Science Museum did not open on Saturday, so a second visit is in order early next week. Then too, I might be able to see more things.
So I was both intrigued but somehow frustrated by my first visit to Oxford. According to my plans I shall return (probably alone) next Tuesday when I might be able to complete my visiting, studies and some additional photography. The more detailed map obtained there should help immeasurably.
After a quick supper, Mila and I went to the Old Vic to see the play A Woman Killed With Kindness, an early, early 17th century play. It was not a great play, but it is an interesting bit of history, and it was done very well indeed. And then it was to home, tired and slightly wrung out.
A footnote just remembered. At the Ashmolean, the guards (of which there were many) were older women. They had a rather grim quality about them, [which] seems more obvious in their presence than men guards seem elsewhere (except perhaps [at] the Wallace Collection).MILA JEAN: Went to Oxford via train (Paddington). Very nice, though crowded, train. Ashmolean Museum. "Tea" place with Danish open-faced sandwiches & cold Quiche Lorraine. Woman Killed With Kindness. Much, much better than last play. Open stage. Gorgeous Elizabethan costumes. Much cooler.
I fell upstairs—skinned knees & holes in hose. Long sleep until 8:00 AM.
GEORGE: Awoke later than usual and the morning was spent in little things. I did time a slow walk (without luggage of course) to the Pan Am terminal and it was ten minutes. There I confirmed our flight reservations back to Boston and they suggested (in response to a question of mine) that I could leave some bags in left luggage. So I shall bring over the two large bags Wednesday afternoon the 28th so that Thursday morning can be fairly routine. They want us at the terminal building by 8:45. so that should mean we can leave at 8 a.m. or soon thereafter and take care of all matters without difficulty.
I read some in the afternoon, Mila and I went over to Kensington Gardens, Palace and the London Museum (since she had not yet seen them). As I write this, it is fairly early in the evening (just after supper) and I have as yet to wash my hair, rework my "book outline" and do some more reading. I have packed one package of books and plan to wrap a second this evening. These can be mailed at separate times.
Today I have felt fatigue, so it has been prudent to take it easier today.MILA JEAN: To Pan Am to check schedules. Terribly tired today. Waited until 1:30—went to South Kensington—walked through Kensington Gardens (boys [not Paul and Matthew] flying prehistoric bird kites) to London Museum & State Apartments. Interesting—costumes for Elizabeth R. especially impressive. Back home. Washed hair. George [sic] started roast. Washed clothes. Waited for Joann's call. No call by 11:00 PM. (She apparently had tried all night, but overseas lines [were] tied up.)
GEORGE: Started by mailing two packages of books which I had wrapped yesterday. The post office clerks look at me strangely when they note that I am shipping books back by other than book rate, but I'll not wrap these packages with completely open ends leaving a string for protection. Then did some marketing and started off for the British Museum (Natural History) via Wallace Heaton...
Last night after completing the journal entry, I began revising my outline and expanding it. I completed the Preface and Chapter I. I've made a start today on Chapter II. I hope to have a reasonable second outline finished before we depart London.
Well then, I went over to the British Museum (Natural History)... Then it was over to the Library (botanical)... This took the latter portion of the morning and half the afternoon (to 3 p.m.). Then I took my leave. Before I did I had an opportunity to corner Stearn and remind him of his offer of a reprint of an article of his. He seemed reluctant but agreed to honor his earlier offer and after about 25 minutes presented it to me with the admonition to "cherish it" since he had but few left. This I promised to do (after all, even if I am not a botanist or English, I am properly reverential toward scholarly publications). I've now read it and while much of the text is derivative insofar as narrative is concerned, it does sum up much data and does represent (I guess) some hard work on the botany part. Taxonomy is (indeed) Latin and Greek to me. It must call for a special enthusiasm to deal with that aspect of "natural philosophy." The bibliography and the data re: the drawings and prints I had been studying were really quite useful...
Tomorrow I shall return to Oxford and in the evening we go to the theatre. As of now, it is uncertain whether Joan[n] Soulier will visit us in London.MILA JEAN: Joann phoned at 7:30 AM—cannot come due to "gangrene" in tooth. Wants to come next Monday. ?Gangrene? Nice chat.
Kids & I went via Charing Cross Road to Foyles—bought Blue Guides for Nancy [de Laurier?], things for kids. On way back, got two silk scarves & two coins for Matthew. Shopped. Ate at home. I went out to Piccadilly, bought ticket for Butley (long line waiting) for Tuesday night. Bought shawl at Scotch House & bolaro (Indian). Evening "at home."
GEORGE: This was the day I went alone to Oxford. I was able to catch the 9:15 and thus had about five hours in Oxford. I began by going directly to the Museum of the History of Science which is housed in the old (17th century) [i.e. original] Ashmolean Museum. As a museum it tends to be rather cluttered with cases and objects (it isn't very big) and as displays go it was "interesting" but not (for me) terribly illuminating or overly informative. A case of hanging astrolabes is not overly exciting unless, I guess, you collect astrolabes. There was one interesting exhibit of spectacles which while not exciting did have more data and specimens on the subject than I had yet seen. Also, on a landing I found an interesting display of old drawing instruments which only reinforced the point of how little changes had been made over the past two hundred years.
I then took off on a walking (and some photographing) expedition which took me to the several colleges and the cathedral not seen before. Stopped in the Sheldonian Theatre, and the Bodleian Library wherein I saw only the court with its labeled entrances and the exhibition gallery. I bought a couple of picture books there and saw a tricentennial (at least) display (dull) of the Botanical Gardens... Then I went over to the science campus which looks like an urban science campus with a goodly mixture of modern and old labs. Also, the number of tourists were much, much smaller here than on Broad Street or the High (as they say).
So finally I found the University Museum and went within. What a glorious interior—mid-19th century cast iron gothic with a glass shingled roof. I really didn't see the displays for the wonderment of the architectural interior. The exterior is stern masonry gothic. After studying this phenomenon, I went over to the Pitt Rivers Museum which opens off the main museum. Here I walked into an unexpected surprise. Facing me as I entered was a display of ethnographic material collected by the Forsters on Cook II [i.e. Captain Cook's second voyage], and interspersed in the display of objects were repros of drawings, paintings and prints relevant to that voyage. So I was at last able to see examples of what was in fact illustrated. Very satisfying—especially since I did not know about the museum much less the display. Pitt Rivers is ethnology and pre-history while the University Museum is Natural History.
I wandered around and behind the tasteful Cook-Forster exhibit and walked into a labyrinth of cases of jammed up objects with canoes, etc. hanging from the ceiling. I wish I had had a better opportunity to see the Peabody at Harvard for comparison. Well, the jam and the confusion was such a contrast to the special exhibit. I guess it comes from a lack of adequate storage facilities for reserve material. Then I strolled back to the Ashmolean ... and from there it was a slow but steady (and tired) walk back to the station. In due time I arrived at the "flat" where dinner was about to be served.
That evening Mila and I went out to see the musical (sic) Canterbury Tales. As it turned out it was very much in the manner and tradition of a British Pantomime.
For some strange reason my handwriting has gone to pot. It is as if there is a reduction of motor control. I really have to concentrate on making the letters. Perhaps I am trying to write too fast and in this journal which forces a somewhat different configuration on me...MILA JEAN: Back to Mme Tussaud's. Not as interesting the second time around, but things were a bit rearranged, so—
"Trip" to Planetarium, very amusing, much to the director's expense. Things kept going wrong: "losing" stars, blacking out, etc. What was supposed to be a prepackaged deal ended up in soapbox oration & adlibbing. He muttered on way out, "It would be just my luck to have someone throw a bomb at me!"
To see Canterbury Tales—very amusing in a basic way: good, imaginative set & costumes—good principals (especially Wife of Bath, Gracie Fields on a half-shell & old man straight out of music hall) but show too reminiscent of a pantomime to captivate me completely. Audience, though, enthralled, gleeful & enthusiastic. Out 10:45. Home 11:15. Slept until 7:45 AM.
GEORGE: In the morning there was a gentle rain. So for the first time in some time the raincoats came out. We went over to the London Art Bookshop where I spent a fair amount of time studying their [books on] buildings. They have "one of everything" out—essentially current titles rather than "used" books. After a considerable search I selected four heavy English publications to have sent to me in the U.S. Two on photography history, one on graphic reproduction processes and one on early English watercolours [sic]. The total price £26.60 plus £2 mailing was steep but I probably saved 25% or more on U.S. prices (I trust). I had stopped at the bank beforehand, so I had adequate cash. Things are [now] squared away at Barclay. All outstanding checks have cleared through my account, and the transfer of funds into the account is cleared as well.
After lunch I had Paul take a couple of photos of me in front of #64 Eccleston Square. Our mail then arrived including one from Gerry Fowle which noted that there was an announcement that Union Station was to be demolished. Ah me, I can see that I shall be quite, quite busy upon my return.
In the afternoon I went over to the South Kensington Museum and studied the painting collections in the V&A. I saw a number of relevant watercolors, which I photographed. Also a real Academy piece by William Hodges. Saw a fair number of Constables including his oil-painted glass transparencies and cloud sketches. From there ... I went over to the Science Museum and saw the shipping and navigation displays and once again the photography.
So I guess I've completed the museum work to the extent that is possible and practicable. I realize I haven't seen all of the displays nor have I tracked down all of the relevant material, but I think I've done a creditable job considering where I started and what I now know.
Tonight it is theatre again. Vivat, Vivat Regina by Robert Bolt. Tomorrow I think we shall go to Cambridge. Friday I go out to Greenwich to pick up the photos. At that juncture I guess it will be downhill the remainder of the way.MILA JEAN: Rained. Went to bank (all) & thence to Goodge Street—searched for Art Bookstore—very "stuffy" in more ways than one. George [sic] got £28 of books to be shipped home! Home for lunch. Me to Knightsbridge & Harrods. Not too thrilling. Awfully tired & achey (G[eorge?]). To Vivat tonight.
GEORGE: We went to Cambridge. As trips went it was adequate but not the most memorable. Perhaps I am a bit weary, perhaps it was Cambridge. The town is somewhat reminiscent of Champaign-Urbana. Stolid, evidence of growth and urban development. The university sprawls about and forms a less identifiable whole. We could not really see a great deal, principally King's College and Queen's College. The various science laboratories in the area called New Museums are a dense package of structures with little charm. There are some charming vistas, and there is still evidence of a medieval past, but even the Colleges (such as we saw) seem more of the 19th century in cast than Oxford. But I have no adequate basis for judgment. However, the science thrust of Cambridge must be a factor. King's College Chapel, clean and in excellent repair, is genuinely impressive and smacks of ostentation then and now. We sat for a while by the Cam and watched competent (and tourist) punters.
I had gone to Cambridge principally to see the Fitzwilliam and the Whipple Museums. The Fitzwilliam is an enormous neo-classic hulk which smacks of opulence within. The displays are far less cluttered than the Ashmolean, and are about of the same range and quality. The Fitzwilliam makes a practice of displaying books and manuscripts in many of the rooms, and I noticed a group of florilegia—including The Temple of Flora. England's enthusiasm for gardening is a factor that does, I suspect, relate to botanizing. Also, I noticed a large group of Dutch flower paintings in the Fitzwilliam as in the Ashmolean (but not in the National Gallery). I need to look into this more than I had planned. I wonder if the Dutch painted directly for an English market, and if so, to what degree this might have influenced the artists. I know that English taste is of an identifiable type (exactly what I cannot be sure yet) and presumably there would be a catering to this...
Well, the Fitzwilliam had a number of interesting works, but the only one specially noteworthy re: the project was Arctic Adventures by Abraham Hondius (c.1630-1695)... The Fitzwilliam also had a group of Pre-Raphaelites and some impressionists and post-impressionists. All in all a more balanced display with fewer objects and less clutter than the Ashmolean, but I do believe the latter probably has more of importance in total (excepting individual works). The Fitzwilliam had a fine, big Rembrandt. There was no convenient check list or catalog to purchase.
After hunting for the Whipple Museum of the History of Science and noting (after finding it) that it had afternoon hours of 2-4 (this was 1:30) we returned and climbed stairs in the antiquated building only to discover that it was "temporarily closed." At this juncture I felt little would be gained to seek special attention and we left. The Oxford museum was instrument oriented—a curious point—and I must assume that the Whipple probably was much the same. In reading histories of science, one gets no real clue as to what the attitudes are. The libraries contain the books that contain the pictures. The museums contain instruments.
So it was back to London. The old (sic) black tote bag I had used to good purpose for five constant weeks fell apart in that the strap fastener came completely apart. Stitching this time would not save it. So I unloaded the photographic equipment and bedecked myself for the return trip.
Oh yes, there was a bit of rain.
While in Cambridge we climbed the tower stairs—what a narrow spiral climb of nearly 130 steps—of the old university church. This is called Great St. Mary's. The view from its top was less splendid than the climb warranted.
MILA JEAN: To Cambridge. Uneventful trip—not so horribly crowded as other two, but also a less pretty vista to look at. Fitzwilliam Museum very interesting, some literary autographs. Saw people punting on stream, also swans & ducks avoiding boaters. Up 120 steps (tiny spiral staircase)—not my idea of heaven—just to get to Church Tower to observe the landscape.
GEORGE: The boys and I took the river launch to Greenwich, and at the National Maritime Museum I picked up my photographs. We had lunch there, looked about a bit and then returned by launch. On the way out there was a large group of French teenagers. Unfortunately the rude and obnoxious portion were seated much too close to us. Country of origin has no bearing on how unpleasant groups of youngsters can be. It wasn't traumatic, but when kids are bored they cannot comprehend that others may not be. Our return was in part a delight. [Only] About twelve of us on the ship.
On our return, now mid-afternoon, Mila and I stocked up at the store—two shopping bags. Also I picked up—at Woolworths—another tote bag. This was a brown one.
Now, this day will be one of resting for me, more work on the outline, washing my hair and reading. Mila is off to the theatre by herself.MILA JEAN: Geo took kids, via boat, to Greenwich—nice of him! I did [a] wash at 8:15, [the laundromat was] filled with Americans per usual—all asking for advice & where to get sixpences! Out by 9:30—Ophelia "doing" our room, so I hurried out. Went to Piccadilly (Indian arcade shop—bought jewelry & scarf—on to Scotch House—more mohair). Went to Busters near Bond & Oxford Street for cream of mushroom soup & sandwich—good. Went to Irish House & got some things. Then to Selfridges (incredible crowd) for tickets. On home by 2:00. "Boys" had had bad time on boat. P & M baths, M hair washed.
Went to Butley by 7:30. I may have been overwhelmed by Alan Bates (it is a one-man show) but dialogue seemed marvelously witty & even other players very good. I enjoyed it very much. Made all the right connections & got home in 15 minutes (10:45-50). Good sleep!
GEORGE: A curious day. Rained gently on and off, and between showers in the morning we went out to investigate the theatre museum near or in Holland Park in Kensington. We walked about in Holland Park hunting for it, down the Belvedere, etc., and at a refreshment kiosk received directions. On our way there we passed some lovely houses, many from the 18th century, which were more ambitious and pretentious than mere row houses. Passed Holman Hunt's former studio house with large north windows, and the house of Sir Luke Fildes. Finally we located the theatre museum adjacent to Frederick Leighton's house, now a public art museum.
The theatre museum is a sorry thing but keeping a flame of hope and concept alive. The idea makes sense, especially as a depository for archives, and perhaps someday some benefactor will provide a basic endowment. Also a better home would help than the one crowded room.
Since we were there, we took in the Leighton House Museum, which also had an exhibition of High Victorian art. The latter was really a rather sorry exhibit with the prize a portrait by Whistler loaned by the Tate. Come to think of it, the Tate doesn't feature Whistler—wonder why? The Leighton House was interesting for its faint impressions (except for the Arabian (sic) room) of grandeur for a successful 19th century artist's studio.
From there we strolled down Earls Court Road and I showed Mila my old haunts (if that is the proper word for it).
After lunch at the rooms, we took off to Haymarket to see Fiddler on the Roof. While not a gripping performance (it is in the fifth year I think), it was a well done presentation and it did give the boys the experience of seeing some theatre in London.
Now it is the evening. I shall work some more on my outline and then read. I feel the distinct need to slow down and maintain my "strength." I'm not sure what we'll do tomorrow, and Monday I think we may assay Brighton. Possible Joan[n] Soulier may come in Monday night. Tuesday evening we see the Ballet, with Nureyev no less.
I also need to finish wrapping books so that these too can be mailed early in the week. So that about does it for now.MILA JEAN: Kids & I went to store for odds & ends. Later left 10:15 in showers for Kensington High Street. Searched for "Leighton House" in Holland Park for long time, but it is very pretty around there. Found several notable artists' homes (Holman Hunt, etc.). Museum tiny but interesting. Museum next door [in] Lord Leighton (an artist) home—rather awful but fun. Back home for lunch—then out to Fiddler on the Roof. As charming as ever. Kids seemed to enjoy it too. Tevye excellent. Home by 5:45. Relaxing at home—washing hair, etc.
GEORGE: Deliberately a slow day. Also a day of intermittent rain. In the morning Mila and I took a walk between 90 and 120 minutes into Chelsea and along the embankment. We saw houses lived in by such as D.G. Rossetti. The neighborhood seemed uneven and far less opulent than that seem yesterday near Holland Park. We had lunch out, and got caught in a rain, and the afternoon was [spent] reading, resting and wrapping up two more packages of books. Except for one for the boys' excess books, that should take care of that. I shall mail them tomorrow a.m. before excursioning to Brighton. That would be four packs of books for me and one for Mila.
The evening is reading and resting. I have no desire to overdo in these last few days, for once I am back in K.C. and UMKC I shall be busy indeed. My outline needs but two chapters to be completed in its second draft.MILA JEAN: Nice quiet day. Slept until 8:00. Took a walk with Geo in misty morning and to Chelsea Embankment—down by Royal Hospital (peeked in Chapel) to Cheyne Walk. Saw Geo Eliot & Rossetti's Home (no wonder dear Lizzie died of T.B.—it is damp even now) & Carlyle's in Cheyne Row. Leigh Hunt's. Took some photos. Back to place, Ate out at "Tennessee" (O.K.) Came back in showers! Geo slept & read and I read in afternoon. (Paul washed hair!) Geo fixed a roast. Evening "at home." Tomorrow: Brighton and Joann?!
GEORGE: This day we went to Brighton. The trip there and back was uneventful with an excellent demonstration of the convenience (and comparative comfort) of British rail travel. No excessive crowds, ease of location seats, speed, etc.
In Brighton the main attraction for me was the Royal Pavilion which was fitted out with a summer Regency exhibition—meaning furnishings. It was all quite an eyeful and rather impressive. There are some relevant factors re: the exotic design which may be worth a footnote on exotic influences indirectly from systematic travel illustrations. There are passages in the guides which I should abstract.
I took a couple of exterior pictures, and then we were off to the sea. We promenaded along the beach (all pebbles) and had lunch in a cafe and then took in the Aquarium which presumably is the "oldest" [in the world,] being about 100 years old. It is in a neo-gothic ribbed-paneled vaulted structure which is all interior. Then we took in the Dolphin show.
From there it was back to the Art Museum which we toured. A nice conglomerate including two rooms devoted to watercolors, one old, one "modern," and musical instruments and a zoology section, a Sussex archeology section, and a group of paintings , both "ancient" and modern. Among the moderns were a fair number of Tchelitchew and Magritte. The "ancients" were a mixed bag but did include a William Hodges which I was able to photograph. This was directly related to the project. There was a fair amount of furniture on display, some good 18th century French, many late 18th century English pieces, and a really nice group of Art Deco period. Also some Art Nouveau. So, while the museum did not grip me, it was well worth the visit.
On our return to the railroad station we passed a superb Greek Revival facade of the local Unitarian Church which I photographed. Then up the hills to the station and to London Victoria. On our return to the rooms we found a cable from Joan[n] stating that she will arrive Tuesday evening instead of tonight. This creates a problem what with the fact that ostensibly we were going to the ballet that night. She arrives thirty minutes before curtain and I suggested that Joan[n] take my ticket. Whatever transpires will be most interesting and a bit confusing.
After that it was mailing of two more packages of books to K.C. and supper. This evening I shall try to finish my outline's second draft, and hopefully finish the Smith book.MILA JEAN: No, not Joann. We had an enjoyable early (8:30 AM) trip to Brighton on a virtually uninhabited train—we were on a "semi-fast," meaning two other stops—went very fast in between. Got there just as Pavilion was opened. A fascinating place—I thought it grotesque at first, but once inside it takes on a quite commendable character. Especially [the] drawing room, banqueting room & music room (they were playing Handel's Water Music). Also there was a black cat asleep on rug, named aptly "George."
Went down to seaside: many people swimming (I had on suit & coat!). Ate in dinky café, then went to aquarium to see dolphin show (very cute). Went to museum & then back by 2:45 train (but not before Matthew lost his shoe under standing train!). Found telegram from Joann, saying "arriving 7:00 PM Tuesday"! Oh Lord! The night we were to see Nureyev! What to do? George [sic] decided if she came in to give her [his] ticket. Bad night sleeping.
GEORGE: As things turned out I did finish the outline but not the Smith book. Rather I read lesser demanding material.
Today I went to the bank and had a check of £400 made up for me to take back to the U.S. This does leave a small amount, about £45 to cover us as needed and which I shall eventually close out. After lunch I went over to the Tate, studied the moderns and purchased a small group of slides. Golly that can be time-consuming. Also bought a "picture book" of the Tate collections. Oh yes, mailed the sixth and final package of books (for the boys this time) home.
Now, as I write this by the window of #7, 64 Eccleston Square, there is a misty rain falling. I have been reading Smith and getting ready to escort Mila to the Charing Cross Station where we are to meet Joan[n] Soulier at 7:00 p.m. (hopefully). Joan[n] reached us by phone this morning and I trust all is understood by the two major participants in this drama. If Joan[n] turns up on time, she will go with Mila to the ballet. If not, I shall go. If she arrives, #7 will be a male dormitory [tonight] while #8 will be for the girls.
I think I shall buy some trivia to read for this evening. Smith is capable but not the easiest person to read when weary.
Oh yes, on the way back from the Tate, I cut away from Vauxhall Bridge Road and watched about ten minutes of a cricket match which was being played behind a hospital nearby. All I could comprehend was that one team was better than the other and that it was less frantic than sandlot ball (is it still played anywhere, I wonder?). So much for that aspect of my education at this time.
If the weather is better tomorrow than most of today's gloom and mist, I shall take a few more local color photos. There is a swell Greek Revival building not far from the bank which I saw for the first time today. I also need some hallway shots at 64 Eccleston Square, and of course at least one of Joan[n].MILA JEAN: Joann called 7:45 to say "Is it all right?" Of course we said yes. I went off to do wash at 8:00. Home by 9:00. Not so traumatic this time. We all go to the bank, post office, newsstand & then home for lunch. George [sic] off to Tate, & I to time how long it takes to walk from Charing Cross Station to Covent Garden. Horrible mobs of people everywhere. Went to Royal Opera House, up to Aldwych—everything sold out, even for Amphitheatre for Ring cycle in Sept-Oct. Walked to Piccadilly one last time—looked around in favorite shops, but bought nothing. Came home in awful muggy oppression at 3:30-4:00. The rain started at dinner time (5:00), building up to good showers at 6:00 when Geo & I left for Charing Cross. Even dripping through ceiling (I very apprehensive that perhaps J. won't show up at all!).
Train came in on time & she & I were on our way by 7:00 (with two umbrellas—she in a pale yellow pants suit). Splashed up to Covent Garden—luckily all the fruiterers gone home—& got to Opera House at 7:15 (J. to bathroom) with dripping umbrellas, sodden bodies. What a place—sort of five seating areas (stalls, stalls circle, two or three other tiers) all jammed. What can one say? It was great though Nureyev wasn't in very flashy parts. The first, "Apollo," a very lean almost static Balanchine piece. Rudi in white tights & streaming torso (he even sweats with passion) & three girls (Three Graces? The Arts?) leaping all over him. Stravinsky music. Not an audience appealer, but they were very enthusiastic—even Rudi got some flowers thrown on stage, as opposed to liveried footmen in wigs bringing them to ballerinas.
First interval—J. gets ice cream (she is starving). Second dance, "Dream" ( of Midsummer Nights!) very very charming—funny, well danced, very popular. Puck marvelous, but so tiny—is he a dwarf? Oberon great. Huge applause. Second interval—J. gets candy bar. Third dance, third act [of] "Raymonda"—wonderful set, icons, candelabra, white & gold costumes too. All Russian (Tchaikovsky) stamping boots—Rudi in background (he choreographed it) but good. Audience very enthusiastic—boy in row in front of us leaping up & down. He finally joined whole group of teenagers who rushed down to orchestra & cheer, throw flowers & no doubt leap back[stage] for autographs. Everyone standing up—some left but most stayed—cheering for many curtain calls of Rudi & Lynn Seymour.
Over at 10:30—home [via] Victoria by 11:00. Joann gets cheese sandwich at Victoria Station. Geo up waiting in room #8. We have sherry & talked. Geo goes to bed. J & I talked till almost 1:00. I wad tired but traffic sounds were loud. (Guess boys room was even louder with a party going on [nearby].)
GEORGE: Well, Joan[n] did arrive—and on time—and with my umbrella and Mila went to the ballet. I picked up some reading and returned to quarters. Then I read until they returned.
This morning, our last day here, was spent in an ambling walk through St. James Park, down to Whitehall, where we caught the "tail-end" literally of the changing of the horse guards, and returned to quarters via Victoria and Franklin. We stopped on the way for some lunch. I took a few photos and the boys fed ducks, geese, and other pond-type fowl. After returning to quarters, Joan[n] retrieved her case and with Mila went to Charing Cross Station to return to France. I began packing my bag. Then Mila returned and packed hers. Then Paul and I hove [i.e. "heaved"] them down to Left Luggage at Pan Am to be picked up in the a.m.
Upon return I finished a light (sic) novel I was reading by Nevil Shute. Then all of us went out to the Aberdeen Steak House on Victoria where we had our only first class meal out since our stay in England. By the time it ended we had spent £5.50 which put it in the moderate class (but then there were no cocktails or wine, only two lagers). Thence, back to quarters.
There isn't much left to do; packing is virtually complete. We need [to] leave early tomorrow and so we shall have refreshment-breakfast at the terminal. We are supposed to check in no later than 8:45 and what with luggage to care for, etc., we really should leave here shortly after 8 a.m. First thing in the morning we need to leave something for service for Ophelia the maid and Mary the caretaker and then off it is to the terminal—which is about ten minutes distant.
So the remainder of the evening will be reading and the last aspects of packing, and then tally-ho. I am quite ready!MILA JEAN: I awakened at 7:30. We talked a bit. Geo knocks on door at 8:00. Have pastries & cereal. Walked to St. James Park (via Buckingham Palace) & fed ducks. Home via Horse Guards & Pall Mall. Ate in delicatessen-type place—goose liver & cheesecake. Home. Took J. to train 1:35. She got right on. Came back & packed. Geo & Paul took two big bags to Pan Am (M along). I packed kids' bags. Cleaned up place. Ate out for a good meal at Steak House (run by Turks). Had shish kebab.
GEORGE: We were up early and were ready to leave for the Pan Am Building before 8 a.m. We made our farewells and presented sealed envelopes with tips for Ophelia the maid and Mary Henderson the House Manageress. Then we walked over to the terminal. It was a real blessing that we had carried over the two heavy bags earlier for it was about all we could manage. We got our luggage checked through and went downstairs for a supplement to our meagre [sic] breakfast at 64 Eccleston Square. Then it was aboard the 8:30 bus and off for Heathrow.
On the Great West Road, which is a freeway of six lanes without shoulders, there was a four-car wreck which really balled things up since it was on our side. After a considerable delay, we got through the mess as ambulances and police were arriving and adding to the traffic congestion. So we arrived later than expected at Heathrow. We went through exit check and were one in twenty-five that were being interviewed for some massive government-type check on foreign visitors (or whatever) as to length of stay, funds expended, where stayed, etc. With that completed we were checked into the lounge by the boarding gate and by 10 a.m. were on board the 747. But at 10:30 we did not take off. We were informed that there was a wait for passengers. My guess was that the 9:05 bus was probably delayed by the jam on the West Road. So it was more like 11:25 when we got our release.
The flight to Boston was fairly pleasant. Lunch was adequate but hardly distinguished. The movie was an Irish presentation of The Playboy of the Western World. Which was not a major production but worth the seeing. We arrived in Boston about 45 minutes late and then there was the interminable wait on luggage. I suspect they feed it out slowly to make sure passengers don't jam up at customs. Our bags arrived at widely separate intervals. I had marked the exteriors with tape so they were easy to spot.
Customs was very perfunctory with only a verbal check. No bags were opened. Don't smugglers travel with children, or was it a spot check of every fifth or what? So whatever the reasons, customs was swift and painless for us. We gave the four large bags to a skycap right at the end of the customs table and I generously tipped him and he had our bags off for TWA and K.C. We staggered out and stuffed our hand bags in a locker and went into a cocktail lounge. The boys had non-alcoholic [drinks] and I sipped a gin and tonic. Mila had two. After a restful period we then bought reading material and waited for the time for our K.C. flight. In due course we went over and there ran into Herb Wood of KCRCHE.
Then it was aboard TWA and we took off about 5 p.m. for K.C. by way of Chicago. Boston to Chicago was very turbulent and somewhat unpleasant. I had skipped Dramamine on the 747, but I had to gulp one on the Convair 880. Fatigue was beginning to set in. However, we had a pleasant flight from Chicago to K.C. and staggered off at about 8:00 p.m., which was 2:20 a.m. London time. And there was Marie Gerules with her boys. We gathered our luggage together, staggered to her station wagon, and in a numb condition went through a quiet and open (to us) city to home. Happily the weather was downright cool with the temperature in the mid-60's.
After flinging things within the house I sat down and managed to get through the 10 o'clock news and fell apart upstairs. But the old biological clock had Paul, Mila and myself awake on Friday morning at about 4 a.m., but we were all home, safe and sound.
MILA JEAN: [page for July 29 left blank, but on a loose leaf was a "Customs Declaration: MJ Ehrlich"]
11 tea towels; 1 cutting board; 1 apron; 1 British Museum seal; 6 Pollock's Toy Museum books (Guide Globe Theatre, School for Scandal, Victorian Theatre, 3 guides); "Bought for me in Greece: bottle opener, earrings"; from Madame Tussaud's, 1 tea towel, 1 plaque, 1 apron, 1 paper bag; 1 Indian apron; 1 Indian robe; 2 Indian scarves; 3 Beatrix Potter books; 1 vest (Indian); 2 mohair stoles; 2 silk scarves; from Irish House, 1 mohair pillow cover, 1 wooden toy; 1 Indian necklace; 2 pendants.
[Another loose leaf listed programs saved from the seventeen plays Mila Jean had seen:] Old Times, Kean, Rules of the Game, Amphitryon, After Haggerty, Forget-Me-Not Lane, The Philanthropist, Abelard and Heloise, Coriolanus, Sleuth, The Chalk Garden, Lovers of Viorne, A Woman Killed With Kindness, Canterbury Tales, Vivat! Vivat Regina!, Butley, Fiddler on the Roof.
NOTES
[click on the > at the end of each Note to return to that date's entry above]
● George’s journal was kept in a large red hardback “Herald Square Record Book” (distributed by F.W. Woolworth) while Mila’s was in a 4x6 spiralbound Eaton’s At-a-Glance Trip Diary ("A Personal Record of Places Visited, Impressions and Travel Autographs”). I was urged to keep a travel journal of my own, and did so perfunctorily in a pocket notebook which has yielded a few extracts included below. >
● George’s doctoral dissertation was titled Technology and the Artist: A Study of the Interaction of Technological Growth and Nineteenth Century American Pictorial Art. A brief account of the "unusual interdisciplinary program" behind it can be found in To Be Honest Chapters 17 and 18.) >
● George had previously visited England from June 26 to July 4, 1966, during his Solo Jaunt in Europe. >
● Marie Gerules (née Marie Caroline Light: born 1939) was our ex-next-door-neighbor, having previously lived at 5509 Holmes. She was married to Walter George Gerules (1925-2006), who worked at Hallmark; they had two boys, George (born 1962) and Mark (born 1965), and a puppy called both Salty and Max. Marie may have been enlisted to drive us to and from the airport because she owned a station wagon that could accommodate all our luggage. >
● We embarked from the old Kansas City Municipal Airport, then in its last year of operation before Kansas City International opened in 1972. >
● The Smiths were Mila Jean’s parents, Francis See (1896-1973) and Ada Louise (1907-2011), who’d just moved a few weeks earlier to Blue Springs MO. They lunched with us at the airport’s Weathervane Restaurant before our departure. >
● Flight reservations on TWA had been placed by Cap'n Kidd Travel, Inc., which was owned and operated by Rosemary Frost Kidd, author of several travelogues. >
● George had hoped to park his Volkswagen squareback in our basement, which had been designed (half a century earlier) to include a garage; but even a VW proved too large to fit in the space available, and the squareback remained out in the driveway for the next six weeks, surviving unscathed. >
● The Fenway-Cambridge Motor Hotel was built to handle visitors to Boston's John F. Kennedy Library; it opened in 1968. >
● The nondenominational MIT Chapel is located next to MIT’s Kresge Auditorium, both of which were designed by Eero Saarinen. >
● Gantrisin (a brand name for sulfisoxazole) is an antibiotic used to treat or prevent bacterial infections. >
● The Busch-Reisinger Museum is dedicated to art from German-speaking nations. Until 1991, it was located in Harvard’s Adolphus Busch Hall. >
● Paul Klee taught at the Bauhaus from 1921 to 1931. >
● The Fogg, Harvard’s oldest art museum, is renowned for its collection of Western art. Agnes Morgan was its director and curator of drawings. >
● Harvard’s University Museum houses both the Museum of Natural History and the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology (hence George’s saying they were “in the same room”). >
● St. Stephen's Church, originally called New North, was designed by Charles Bulfinch in 1802. Cardinal Cushing authorized its restoration in 1964. >
● The Boeing 747 Jumbo Jet first entered into service in January 1970. >
● Harry, the Ehrlich family gerbil, lodged with the Smiths in Blue Springs while the family was abroad. Grandmother Smith allowed him to gnaw a corner of her letters to London, so Harry could contribute to the correspondence. In Oxford on July 17 we saw a collection of what I called “British gerbils.” >
● Using the 747's earphones, I listened to piped-in excerpts of Tom Sawyer and Mary Poppins. >
● En route to London we saw the 1970 adaptation of Jane Eyre, starring Susannah York in the title role and George C. Scott as Rochester. John Williams composed its award-winning score. >
● I had difficulty napping from infancy until well into middle age, and thus remained awake throughout both transatlantic flights in 1971. >
● Eccleston Square is one of three “green spaces” along Belgrave Road in Pimlico. This area was developed in the 1840s for middle-class living, as opposed to affluent Belgravia to the north; yet its “terraced stucco-fronted houses [give] the street an appearance of elegance from a previous age” (as per Wikipedia). >
● A 2016 Zoopla.co.uk listing described 64 Eccleston Square as “a magnificent Grade II listed building on the eastern side of this attractive garden square. The property is arranged over 6 floors ... divided into 20 units of varying sizes... The premises have been used since at least 1976 for short-term holiday lettings.” >
● Americans consider ground floors to be first floors, but in England the first floor is the one above the ground floor. >
● Helene Hanff, author of 84, Charing Cross Road, made her first long-delayed trip to England at almost the same time we made ours. Her travel journal was published as The Duchess of Bloomsbury Street; its entry for June 24 notes that “nobody would dream of asking you for a match, it would be like asking you for money. Matches are not free over here. There are none in ashtrays in hotel lobbies and none on restaurant tables. You have to buy them at the store.” >
● According to his obituary, Cread F. Pettey (1918-2011) retired as Executive Vice President of KCMO’s Plaza Bank & Trust. >
● For this trip, George had received a $1,000 grant from the American Philosophical Society, a $500 grant from the Kansas City Regional Council for Higher Education (KCRCHE), and a matching grant of $500 from the University of Missouri-Kansas City (UMKC). These were “to support the study of art works in British museums used for scientific illustrations.” Personal expenditures had to come out of the Ehrlich family pocket, which was never deep at this time; so George devoted considerable time to meticulous recording and calculation of finances. >
● Geraldine (Gerry) Fowle was a professor of art history at UMKC and longtime Ehrlich family friend; she died in 2011 and, like George, was honored with a student scholarship in her name. >
● Nancy DeLaurier was UMKC's Slide Curator for many years. She and her husband Jacques hosted the annual Art Department picnic at their place on Sni-a-Bar Road. >
● The Wimpy’s hamburger chain (named after J. Wellington Wimpy of Thimble Theatre/Popeye fame) was founded in Indiana in 1934. Twenty years later, the first Wimpy’s was opened in London; by 1970 it would be the British equivalent of McDonald’s in prevalence, price and quality. George, newly arrived in London in 1966 and "still cautious about [his] internals, had a Whimpy [sic] and Pepsi." >
● Victoria Station is one of London’s busiest transport terminals, both for surface railways and the Underground Tube. 64 Eccleston Square is only a five-minute walk away. >
● Tesco originated in 1919 as a market stall in London's East End, selling war-surplus groceries. By the 1960s it was a chain of more than 800 stores. >
● Wallace Heaton, the exclusive supplier of cameras to the British royal family, was bought out by Dixons Retail in 1972. >
● "TX" is Kodak Tri-X black-and-white film, "appreciated for its wide exposure latitude and classic grain structure" (as per Wikipedia). >
● George first visited the British Museum on June 29, 1966. >
● In my perfunctory travel journal, I noted that June 18 was a day of “heavy rain and wind.” >
● Violet Evelyn Ruhig (born 1915 in Chicago) was the eldest of the Hungarian-American generation of whom her second cousin George Ehrlich (born 1925) was the youngest. Evelyn married Albert Bela Sessler (1906-1978) in 1942; they had three children. >
● Ily Kohn Szabo was Grandma Mathilda Ehrlich’s youngest sister, one of the few Kohns to survive the Holocaust; she spent most of her life in France, and visited America in 1967 for her first reunion with Mathilda since 1923. >
● At age fifteen, Robert Burns met "Handsome Nell," a "bonnie, sweet, sonsie [i.e. buxom] lass... The tones of her voice made my heart-strings thrill like an Aeolian harp... I never had the least thought or inclination of turning poet till I got once heartily in love." Mila Jean's grandmother/namesake was born a Burns, from a family claiming a connection with the Bard of Ayrshire; I was obliged to disprove this in Chapters B-1 and B-4 of Fine Lineage. >
● The First Churchills was the inaugural program shown on Masterpiece Theatre in January 1971. King William III was portrayed by Alan Rowe. >
● We had no stand-up shower at 5505 Holmes, so shampoos were conducted (with assistance for the youthful) in the kitchen sink; which may account for Mila Jean’s numerous references to hair-washing. >
● 64 Eccleston Square would have been about a fifteen-minute walk from the fictional 165 Eaton Place, home of the Bellamys in Upstairs, Downstairs, which had completed filming its first season (or “series”) in May 1971, but faced a very uncertain broadcast future till it debuted that October. >
● BOAC was the British Overseas Airways Corporation, which merged with BEA (British European Airways) in 1974 to form British Airways. >
● Mayfair, Belgravia, and Pimlico were developed from the estate of Sir Thomas Grosvenor and his wife Mary (married 1677). >
● I noted that we took the Eleanor Rose to Greenwich; saw a large live beagle aboard the Cutty Sark; and returned to London via the Thames Brittania. Our "friendly articulate young guide" (as described by Mila Jean) on the Eleanor Rose announced that since the river was so polluted, we’d have to be hospitalized overnight if we happened to fall in. >
● Created by Queen Mary II as the Royal Hospital for Seamen, Greenwich Hospital was a home for retired sailors from 1692 to 1869, when its buildings were taken over by the Royal Naval College; though the infirmary operated as Dreadnought Seaman's Hospital till 1986. >
● The National Maritime Museum reflects Greenwich's ancient association with the sea and navigation. Paired with the nearby Royal Observatory, it "enjoys a unique conjunction of subjects (history, science and the arts), enabling it to trace the movement and accomplishments of people and the origins and consequences of empire" (as per Wikipedia). >
● The Queen’s House in Greenwich, built for James I’s consort Anne, was Inigo Jones’s first major commission after touring Italy, and the first “consciously classical” structure in Britain. >
● Although the Queen’s House was not designed by Sir Christopher Wren, it influenced his layout of Greenwich Hospital, since Mary II did not want the latter to block the former’s riverside vista. >
● Great Britain's National Gallery, one of the world's most-visited art museums, was established in 1824; its present building was designed in the 1830s. "No other collection possesses such consistent quality, nor better tells the story of Western European painting," boasts the website ArtUK.org. George originally visited it on June 28, 1966. >
● The Reserve Collection is displayed in the National Gallery's basement. >
● The Aldwych Theatre, designed in the Edwardian Baroque style, opened in 1905. The Royal Shakespeare Company made the Aldwych its London base from 1960 to 1982. On July 20, 1971 (a month after Mila Jean's journal entry) the Aldwych was "listed Grade II"—i.e. placed on the Statutory List of Buildings of Special Architecture or Historical Interest. >
● This was our first acquaintance with the Granny Smith apple; originally an Australian product, it would not be distributed in the United States till later in the 1970s. We took particular note of it in London, having a Granny Smith of our own back in Blue Springs. >
● According to my journal, we (or at least I) lunched on a hot dog and custard at the National Gallery. I’d had my first taste of custard (as opposed to instant pudding) on the 747 coming over. >
● Besides Early Artists of Australia, Rex and Thea Rienits wrote Discovery of Australia, A Pictorial History of Australia, The Voyages of Captain Cook, and The Voyages of Columbus. >
● Bernard Smith was an Australian art historian and critic who taught at the University of Melbourne, Power Institute of Fine Arts, and Australian Academy of the Humanities. >
● Harrods, whose motto is Omnia Omnibus Ubique ("All Things for All People Everywhere"), is the department store in London if not Great Britain. George bought Mila Jean a cashmere stole here in 1966. >
● Charing Cross Road was and remains famous for its specialist, antiquarian, and secondhand bookshops. Marks & Co. at #84 Charing Cross Road, with whom Helene Hanff placed orders before making it famous, closed by 1971. >
● Foyles, once the world’s largest bookstore, was "famed for its anachronistic, eccentric and sometimes infuriating business practices; so much so that it was a tourist attraction” (as per Wikipedia). >
● W.H. Smith was the world’s first chain of bookshops, whose nine-digit code for referencing titles was adopted as the international ISBN standard. Along with books, it sold “entertainment products” and so was a favorite place for Matthew and I to visit. >
● Matthew began collecting toy cars at a very early age, and in England bought five more plus a taxicab and train steam engine (according to a list drawn up for customs). Mila Jean saved his assortment of Matchbox cars, which in 2016 elicited an admiring “Oh my goodness!” from an estate appraiser. >
● Harold Pinter’s Old Times opened at the Aldwych Theatre on June 1, 1971. It starred Colin Blakely, Dorothy Tutin, and (as Mila Jean noted) Vivien Merchant, who was Pinter's wife till his "coup de foudre" a few years later with Lady Antonia Fraser. >
● The American Philosophical Society (APS) was founded in 1743 as the first learned society in America. Using publications, library resources, and research grants (such as the $1,000 provided for George's project), it promotes scholarly research in the sciences and humanities. >
● George’s research report, ultimately titled “Art Works Used for Scientific Illustrations,” appeared in the American Philosophical Society Year Book for 1972. >
● An article on this long-studied topic would be published in the 1990 Proceedings of the American Philosophical Society as "The Illustrations in the Lewis and Clark Journals: One Artist or Two?" >
● In my journal for June 24 I stated (within quote marks) that we “saw” a ho-hum Changing of the Guards, and then found ourselves following the departing Guards as we headed back to our rooms. >
● The Old Vic originated as the Royal Coburg Theatre in 1818 before being renamed the Royal Victoria; by 1880 it had taken on its informal title. In 1963 the National Theatre repertory company was founded at the Old Vic, with Laurence Olivier as its first artistic director. >
● St. John's Chapel is part of the White Tower (the central citadel of the Tower of London) built by William the Conqueror circa 1080. >
● The CAA is the College Art Association. At their annual meeting in 1981, George presented a paper titled “Cook and LaPérouse: Establishing an Important Link between Art and Science in the Eighteenth Century.” >
● AQ is American Quarterly, the official publication of the American Studies Association. >
● At the CAA’s annual meeting in 1971, George presented a paper titled “An Expedition to Scandinavia: Scientific Illustration and Romanticism.” >
● The Old Kentucky Palace on Oxford Street billed itself as “Britain’s Greatest American Pancake Restaurant.” >
● Unhappily I still have tastebud-flashbacks from my June 25 meal at Old Kentucky: “two pancakes drenched in maple syrup and apple juice, topped with whipped cream.” >
● Glenda McCrary, a close friend and colleague of Mila Jean’s, incidentally taught my Freshman English class at UMKC in 1974. >
● Description de l'Égypte was an 1809-29 series of scientific publications describing ancient and modern Egypt, following Napoleon’s expedition there in 1798-1801. >
● Sir Richard Wallace (1818-1890) inherited an extensive selection of European art from his natural father, the Marquess of Hertford, and expanded it into one of the world's finest collections of 18th Century French pictures, porcelain and furniture. Wallace's widow bequeathed it to the British nation in 1897, stipulating that no item in the collection ever leave Hertford House, even for loan exhibitions. George first visited it on July 2, 1966. >
● Jan van Huysum was an 18th century Dutch landscape painter, best known for his still lifes of fruit and flowers. >
● Sir John Soane’s Museum is the neo-classical architect’s former home, containing drawings and models of his projects as well as Soane's collections of art and antiquities. George first visited it on July 2, 1966 and "was completely captivated... This early 19th Century architect's mansion has no parallel anywhere. I itched to put my hands on some of the books." >
● Kean was a 1954 adaptation (“in five acts and six paintings”) by Jean-Paul Sartre of an 1836 play by Alexandre Dumas pére. >
● Alan Badel was “noted for his richly textured voice which was once described as ‘the sound of tears’” (as per Wikipedia). >
● The Tate Gallery was founded in 1897 (on the site of the old Millbank Prison) as the National Gallery of British Art, and was renamed in 1932 after philanthropist Henry Tate. George previously visited it on July 1, 1966. >
● Concerning our visit to the Tate, my June 27 journal entry stated: “No oxygen!” >
● New Zealand House, Australia House, and India House are those nations's diplomatic missions or embassies in London. >
● Angus & Robertson was a prominent Australian publisher and seller of books, and promoter of Australian literature. >
● Mila Jean first met Evelyn “Kris” Huffman during a 1959 KCU Playhouse production of Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme, in which they portrayed Dorimène and Lucile respectively. They remained close friends for over half a century, though Mila Jean would sometimes grumble that Kris (an indefatigable traveler) was “never home.” Among my early memories is Mila’s relishful reading aloud of Kris’s out-of-town letters, each ending in some sort of migratory cliffhanger. >
● "Fred" was Frederick R. McLeod, UMKC's longtime Director of Freshman English. >
● London's Hansel & Gretel Hotel was located at 68-72 Belgrave Road, and included by Mila Jean in her pre-trip list of possible accommodations. >
● The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A), founded in 1852, houses the world's largest collection of decorative arts and design in 145 galleries. >
● George's first visit to the V&A was almost precisely five years earlier, on June 30, 1966. >
● In my journal I noted that at Greenwich we saw the Prime Meridian, Halley’s tomb, and “too many schoolkids.” (The principal utterance of British schoolchildren on field trips is a high-pitched, high-volume “Oww, look!!”) >
● Sir Charles Wyndham's New Theatre (so called because it was built behind the existing Wyndham's Theatre) opened in 1903. George saw Oliver! here on June 28, 1966. The New Theatre would be renamed the Albery Theatre in 1973 and the Noël Coward Theatre in 2006. >
● The Royal National Theatre’s 1971 production of Pirandello’s The Rules of the Game starred Paul Scofield, Joan Plowright, and Tom Baker (in the same year he played Rasputin in the film Nicholas and Alexandra, and three years before taking the helm of Doctor Who). >
● Amphitryon 38 was Jean Giraudoux’s retelling of a tale from classical mythology (which he reckoned must have been the 38th staging of that story). >
● My misguided purchase at the Bermondsey Market was an ornate illustrated volume of Oliver Twist and Martin Chuzzlewit. Its latter half proved to be infested with a rusty mold, which is one reason why Chuzzlewit remains my least favorite Dickens novel. >
● Matthew had begun an extensive coin collection by this time, which he would eventually sell in adulthood for a tidy sum. >
● Pollock’s Toy Museum was originally a single attic room near Covent Garden, when Pollock’s Toy Theatres were sold. In 1969 it moved to its present location, two adjoining unrestored Georgian townhouses. >
● Or as their package stated, “fish fingers.” >
● Christopher Plummer appeared with the National Theatre from June 1971 to January 1972. He was in The Rules of the Game as well as Laurence Olivier’s production of Amphitryon 38. >
● The London Museum was located in Kensington Palace until 1976, when it relocated to a new building near the Barbican Arts Centre. >
● One of the London Museum's models depicted the Great Fire of 1666—vividly enough for me to note it in my perfunctory journal. >
● My chief memory of visiting St. Paul’s is climbing many steps, with resulting leg cramps. >
● Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub was built after London's Great Fire of 1666; it has been frequented by many literary celebrities, drawn in part by "the curious lack of natural lighting inside which generates its own gloomy charm" (as per Wikipedia). >
● Samuel Johnson lived close by the Cheshire Cheese pub; "Dr. Johnson's House," where he compiled his Dictionary, was rescued from "squalor and decay" and turned into a museum. >
● David Mercer’s After Haggerty was first presented in 1970 at the Aldwych Theatre. >
● Peter Nichols’s Forget-Me-Not Lane was broadcast on Great Performances in 1975; George and Mila watched this version with great pleasure. >
● Osterley Park is a mansion in a large park of the same name. Originally Elizabethan, the manor house was remodeled by Robert Adam in the 1760s. >
● Sir Joseph Banks, a pioneering botanist, naturalist and ethnologist, took part in Captain James Cook’s first great voyage on the Endeavour in 1768-71; he was later a great patron of the natural sciences and longtime president of the Royal Society. >
● A piano nobile is the principal floor of a large house, especially one built in the classical manner. >
● I was by no means a husky lad at age fourteen, and doubt I could have defeated Kris Huffman at arm wrestling; but I was gallantly volunteered to hand-tote an “extremely heavy bag” (as per my journal entry) from her lodging to the airport connection. She generously tipped me afterward, but my journal entry concluded: “That’s it for this day.” >
● The United Kingdom had just switched to decimal coinage the previous February, and quite a few vending machines (including laundromat dryers) had not yet been converted from old style sixpences, etc. >
● George was chairman of the UMKC Art Department from 1964 to 1975. Louis Cicotello, filling in for him during the summer of 1971, taught at UMKC from 1967 to 1984, then chaired the Art Department at the University of Colorado–Colorado Springs. He died in 2011 while rappelling in Utah’s No Man’s Canyon; his younger brother David survived, but spent six days trapped on a ledge. >
● Burton L. Dunbar III joined the UMKC Art Department in 1966 and was still on its faculty fifty years later, specializing in Netherlandish Renaissance art, and having served several times as department chairman. >
● The luxurious Mayfair (actually "May Fair") Hotel was opened in 1927 by King George V and Queen Mary. >
● Matthew insists that in Madame Tussaud’s Chamber of Horrors, I touched the tub in which George Joseph Smith slew his “Brides in the Bath,” then touched Matthew immediately afterward. I have no recollection of this (and would guess the tub was a prop created along with Smith’s wax effigy) but will take suitable credit for having “been strong” on a kid brother. >
● Christopher Hampton’s The Philanthropist (a “response” to Molière’s The Misanthrope) first played at the Mayfair Theatre in 1970. A Broadway production in the spring of 1971 was nominated for three Tonys, including Best Play. >
● Henry VIII constructed the Hampton Court tiltyard for jousting tournaments, and the Tiltyard Tower for viewing them. The Tiltyard Café is located in the gardens near the maze. >
● In her June 26 entry in The Duchess of Bloomsbury Street, Helene Hanff made sardonic reference to a newspaper headline: ENGLAND SWELTERS IN 75-DEGREE HEAT. By July 11 she conceded, “It was hot today—eighty-four degrees, very hot for London,” and made compassionate mention of a War Office guard outdoors “in a heavy wool uniform, long leather gloves and leather knee boots, he had a Persian lamb saddle rug tucked around him and he was clutching a spear which was bending slightly from the heat.” >
● DCO stands for “Dominion, Colonial and Overseas.” >
● On July 8 I bought a Penguin edition of Jane Eyre for 30p: a far better literary investment than the mold-infested Bermondsey Antique copy of Oliver Twist/Martin Chuzzlewit. >
● In the March 29, 1971 New York magazine, John Simon remarked that "with Abélard & Héloise [Ronald Millar] continues his career as purveyor of middlebrow ponderousness to semi-cultivated audiences." >
● Corin Redgrave hailed from the famous theatrical/political clan; he and sister Vanessa Redgrave founded a small-scale Marxist Party in 1987. >
● The Wellington Museum is in Apsley House, the London townhouse of the Dukes of Wellington; it was built by Robert Adam in the 1770s, and contains a notable collection of paintings. >
● Probably James Cook and New Zealand, a 1969 book by A. Charles Begg and Neil C. Begg. >
● When the Old Vic's "Brechtian" production of Coriolanus opened on May 6, 1971, Anthony Hopkins played the lead role of Caius Marcius—replacing Christopher Plummer, who'd withdrawn from rehearsals due to "artistic differences" with the directors. >
● Kew Gardens, the world's largest botanical collection and plant research center, was founded in 1840. George visited a friend from KCMO there in 1966. >
● Jakob Bogdani or Bogdany was a Hungarian-born painter of birds and still lifes in Queen Anne’s court; his patron was Admiral George Churchill, brother of the Duke of Marlborough. >
● Carl Linnaeus formalized the modern system of binomial nomenclature (i.e. “Latin names”) for organisms in the 18th Century. >
● Decimus Burton, protegé of John Nash, was a prolific 19th century architect and designer of public gardens. >
● The “Old” Kew Palace, also known as the Dutch House, was built in 1631; both Frederick Prince of Wales and his son George III lived there. King George designed a new Kew Palace, which was begun in 1802 and demolished in 1828. >
● Marilyn Stokstad (1929-2016) was a professor of art history at the University of Kansas, director of its Spencer Museum, consulting curator of medieval art at the Nelson Gallery, and author of widely-used college textbooks. >
● Anthony Shaffer’s Sleuth opened in 1970 with Anthony Quayle and Keith Baxter. >
● On July 1, Helene Hanff went to Stratford-upon-Avon, and “the first thing we saw as we drove in was a huge billboard advertising the JUDITH SHAKESPEARE WIMPY HAMBURGER BAR.” >
● The bushbaby at the London Zoo seemed to be enthralled by the sight of Mila Jean’s purse—whether from aesthetic admiration or felonious intent. >
● Gladys Cooper starred in the premiere of The Chalk Garden on Broadway in 1955, as well as its 1971 West End revival. >
● Joan Greenwood, best known from Ealing films such as Kind Hearts and Coronets, was famous for her "plummy" voice. >
● The Theatre Royal Haymarket, originally built in 1720, was redesigned by John Nash in 1821. >
● Dickens House was the nearest our paths came to crossing with Helene Hanff’s: we visiting it on July 15, she (not particularly a Dickens fan, “which you don’t tell to ANYbody over here”) on July 17. >
● A “kick” which has never lagged or flagged in the decades since. >
● The Courtauld Institute of Art, founded in 1932, is "probably the most prestigious specialist college for the study of the history of art in the world" (as per Wikipedia). A traveling exhibition of Courtauld Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art appeared at KCMO's Nelson Gallery in 1988. >
● London’s General Post Office Tower opened to the public in 1966 and was the setting for that year’s Doctor Who serial The War Machines. In October 1971 an IRA bomb went off in the men’s washroom at the Top of the Tower restaurant. >
● Frans Post, a 17th Century artist, was the first European to paint landscapes of the New World, specializing in Dutch Brazil. >
● “Mews” initially meant a building where birds (particularly hawks and falcons) were confined while “mewing” or moulting. The King’s falconry birds were kept at the Royal Mews at Charing Cross from 1377 till 1537, when this became Henry VIII’s royal stables; thus the term “mews” came to be associated with housing for horses and carriages. >
● From college days at KCU, Joann Stegman Soulier was one of Mila Jean’s closest friends emotionally, if perhaps the most distant one geographically: leaving Kansas City for New York, France, and eventually the Far East as the wife of Jean Soulier, France's ambassador to Thailand (1978-82) and Indonesia (1982-86). Joann's first name has often been misspelled, even (surprisingly and consistently) by George. >
● James C. Olson was chancellor of UMKC from 1968 to 1976, then president of the University of Missouri till 1984; he and his wife Vera Farrington Olson were tireless supporters of the arts. The MU Board of Curators established a fund in their names to continue this advocacy, and the UMKC Performing Arts Center was rededicated in Dr. Olson’s honor in 2008. >
● C. Brice Ratchford had been named the University of Missouri's interim president in October 1970; he then held the permanent position from June 1971 until he was succeeded by James Olson in 1976. >
● George and Mila's reaction to The Lovers of Viorne was so pronounced I made mention of it in my perfunctory journal—and mixed it up with the Olsons's visit, saying my parents "go to see Chancellor play they don't like." (This despite the presence of Dame Peggy Ashcroft and her co-star Gordon Jackson, soon to debut as Hudson the butler on Upstairs, Downstairs.) >
● Oxford’s Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology was the world’s first university museum when it opened in 1683; the present building was constructed in 1841-45. >
● Jan van Kessel the Elder, a 17th century Flemish painter of small-scale still lifes, was “obsessed with picturesque detail” (as per Wikipedia) and used scientific illustrations as well as nature for his sources. >
● Daisy Linda Ward, herself an artist, bequeathed a collection of Dutch and Flemish still life paintings to the Ashmoleon in 1939. >
● Blackwell’s began as an academic bookstore and library supply service on Broad Street in Oxford; it later opened branches across the United Kingdom. >
● The National Theatre Company’s 1971 Old Vic production of A Woman Killed With Kindness, directed by John Dexter, starred Joan Plowright as Anne and Anthony Hopkins as Master Frankford. >
● William T. Stearn, “the modern Linnaeus,” was a preeminent British botanist; his reference book Botanical Latin is a standard in this field. >
● Scotch House (unlike the Australia, India, and New Zealand Houses) was not a diplomatic mission, but a purveyor of woollens and cashmeres. >
● While it’s pleasant to picture George exchanging professorial nods-in-passing with J.R.R. Tolkien, the Master of Middle-earth was still living in secluded retirement near Bournemouth at this time, and would not return to Oxford till after his wife’s death that November. >
● The Sheldonian Theatre, designed by Christopher Wren, was built in the 1660s so as to remove Oxford's "increasingly rowdy" graduation ceremonies from the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin. >
● The Bodleian Library, founded by Sir Thomas Bodley and opened in 1602, is Oxford's chief research library. >
● The Oxford University Museum of Natural History was built in the 1850s to centralize collections and teaching facilities that had been scattered around Oxford. >
● The Pitt Rivers Museum was added to the University Museum in the 1880s, to house General Augustus Pitt Rivers's ethnological collections. "In 19th-century thinking, it was very important to separate objects made by the hand of God (natural history) from objects made by the hand of man (anthropology)"—as per Wikipedia. >
● Johann Reinhold Forster and his son Georg accompanied James Cook on the latter’s second voyage to the Pacific in 1772-75, replacing Joseph Banks as this expedition’s naturalists. >
● On our second trip to Madame Tussaud’s, a couch by the Penny Arcade was occupied by a couple of men: one holding a newspaper, the other craning his head to read it over the first man’s shoulder. These were in fact wax statues of two murderers (perhaps Burke & Hare?) and the newspaper told of their exploits. >
● The musical Canterbury Tales opened at London’s Phoenix Theatre in 1968 and ran for over 2,000 performances. >
● In George’s long crusade on behalf of historic preservation, the fight to save KCMO’s Union Station was the most extended and, at times, the most discouraging. Not till 1996 would the metropolitan area vote to fund restoration; but Union Station triumphantly reopened as a series of museums in 1999, with Amtrak passenger service resuming in 2002. >
● On Captain Cook’s second voyage to the Pacific, William Hodges was the expedition’s artist. He would go on to be one of the first British landscape painters to visit and depict India. >
● Robert Bolt’s Vivat! Vivat Regina! opened at the Piccadilly Theatre in 1970, with Eileen Atkins as Elizabeth I and Sarah Miles as Mary Queen of Scots. >
● My perfunctory comment on Cambridge was that it was a “lot like Oxford and Harvard.” >
● The University of Illinois, alma mater to George and his sister Martha and future employer of Matthew, is located in Champaign-Urbana IL. >
● King's College Chapel, gradually built during the Wars of the Roses, "is considered one of the finest examples of late Perpendicular Gothic English architecture" (as per Wikipedia). >
● The River Cam was originally called the Granta, and Cambridge was originally named Grantebrycge; "Grant" evolved into "Cam" much as Oxenford dwindled to Oxford. >
● Viscount FitzWilliam, who did much to develop Dublin, left his library and art collection to Cambridge in 1816 along with a bequest “to cause to be erected a good substantial museum repository” for them. >
● A florilegium (plural florilegia) or “gathering of flowers” can mean a medieval anthology of excerpts from other writings, or (especially in the 17th century) a treatise on ornamental and exotic plants. >
● The Temple of Flora was Part III of Robert John Thornton’s A New Illustration of the Sexual System of Carolus Von Linnaeus (1797-1807). Only half of its seventy colored plates were produced, due to lack of interest from the public and the failure of a lottery held to finance the project. >
● Abraham Hondius, a Dutch painter who settled in London, specialized in artworks of animals (e.g. Ape and Cat Fighting over Dead Poultry). >
● The Whipple Museum of the History of Science was founded in 1944 when Robert Whipple (of the Cambridge Scientific Instrument Company) donated his collection of antique instruments to the university. It occupies the original Perse School, built in 1615. >
● Cambridge's Church of St. Mary the Great (called "Great St. Mary's" to differentiate it from the Church of St. Mary the Less—"Little St. Mary's") dates back to the 14th Century. Cambridge undergraduates are required to live within three miles of it. >
● Simon Gray’s Butley opened at the Criterion Theatre on July 14, 1971, nine days before Mila Jean saw it. Director Harold Pinter thought that in the title role, Alan Bates “gave the performance of a lifetime.” Despite Mila's calling it a "one-man show," Butley has six supporting characters. >
● Sir Samuel Luke Fildes was a newspaper illustrator in the social realist style, who later turned to oil painting. >
● Frederick Leighton was a painter and sculptor who inherited a barony the day before his death—“the shortest-lived peerage in history.” His home was opened to the public as a museum in 1929. >
● Since 1911 there had been a campaign to establish a national theatre museum in London. By 1963, some display space had been acquired at Leighton House; a separate museum opened in 1974, but closed in 2007 due to lack of funds, and the museum's archives were moved to a new insitution in Blackpool. >
● George's "old haunts" were from his previous visit to England in the summer of 1966. >
● By the time we saw Fiddler on the Roof at Her Majesty’s Theatre (with an cleverly-used turntable stage), the role of Tevye had been taken over by Barry Martin. It was originally played in the West End by Chaim Topol, who would appear in the movie version released that November. >
● Mila Jean saved a Fitzwilliam Museum postcard written by Matthew on July 25: "Hi everybody—Just about through. Going to Brighton (or an attempt) tomorrow. Saw Fiddler on a roof [sic] yesterday. Very funny. Unusual. Exsaperaing [sic], for some. Leaving Soon. Love, Matthew." Eight years later, Matthew would portray Tevye in a high school production of Fiddler. >
● Elizabeth “Lizzie” Siddal, a poet and artist as well the prime Pre-Raphaelite model and wife of Dante Gabriel Rossetti, actually died in 1862 of a laudanum overdose. >
● Pavel Tchelitchew was a surrealist painter and designer of theatrical sets and costumes, who became close friends with Edith Sitwell. >
● After our visit to the Brighton Pavilion, I wondered whether a live cat would have been allowed to mosey freely around museum settings. “George” couldn’t have been a taxidermy prop, though, since he was asleep not only on a costly-looking rug but in a patch of sunlight—meaning he would’ve had to be manually moved along the floor as the sun shifted. >
● George IV first visited Brighton in 1783, while Prince of Wales, and three years later rented a modest farmhouse there for liaisons with Maria Fitzherbert. In 1787 construction began on George's Royal Pavilion, which was finally enlarged by John Nash in the "Indo-Gothic Revival" style. >
● George’s photography was almost exclusively done in black and white, so by “local color photos” he must have meant “photos of local ‘color,’ as in vivid quality or detail.” >
● According to her saved ticket stub, Mila Jean's seat at Covent Garden's Royal Opera House was N28 in the Orchestra Stalls, and cost £3.80. >
● Raymonda was first presented by the Russian Imperial Ballet in 1898; its latter-day performances (including Nureyev’s) are derived from the 1948 staging by Konstantin Sergeyev. >
● Lynn Seymour was a prima ballerina with the Royal Ballet before becoming artistic director of the Munich State Ballet and then the Greek National Ballet. >
● Inside the back cover of George's travel journal was a long two-column "PERSONAL PACKING LIST" organized by "suitcase" (brown suit, sweater, 4 undershorts, 4 undershirts, 6 handkerchiefs, etc.), "handbag" (film, camera, record book, ledger, razor adapters, etc.), and "on person" (passport wallet, personal wallet, sunglasses, prescription glasses, Dramamine, etc.)—identical in format to the one I'd drawn up for myself in the 21st century. (Heredity plus environment equals characteristics.) >
● Nevil Norway was an aeronautical engineer who wrote novels using the pen name Nevil Shute. Among his works were On the Beach and A Town Like Alice. >
● On August 21, Joann wrote Mila Jean from Bangkok: "Do you realize that I can never again eat duck? After having watched the Great Feeding of Ducks in St. James Park, how can I ever look a dead duck in the eye again, especially on a platter and simmering in his own sauce? You will probably think that I have odd memories of my flying visit to London—it is a blend of Nureyev, the splendor of the Royal Opera House, a lot of cornflakes being consumed, and St. James Park. But seriously, I do thank you so much for your hospitality, for putting me up, for feeding me (as well as the ducks) and for giving me an unexpected chance to see Nureyev. There I am eternally grateful to George. What a gentleman!..." >
● The Playboy of the Western World was a 1962 Irish-made version of the Synge play, starring Gary Raymond as Christy Mahon and Siobhán McKenna as Pegeen. >
● Dr. Herbert Wood was president of the Kansas City Regional Council for Higher Education (KCRCHE), from which George received one of his grants for the trip to England. >
● George made a July 30 entry summing up finances, then titled the next page: “Recapitulation and Hindsight Thoughts (more than a few days later).” But the rest of that page and the remainder of the journal book (fully half of it) were left blank.
● George and Mila Jean (unencumbered by offspring) returned to England when UMKC offered "One Week in London"—March 5-13, 1976—via Travellers [sic] International Tour Operators. Extremely abbreviated records were kept, mostly a list of places visited (several outside London, including Oxford and Stratford) and plays seen (A Month in the Country, Norman Conquests, Otherwise Engaged, The Seagull, Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead). The Ehrlichs ignored the official itinerary's optional tours, whose descriptions sound like narrative from The Benny Hill Show: "Take a step back into the 16th century on this unusual and exciting night out that plunges you into the medieval England of Henry VIII. Buxom wenches serve an original 16th century menu, which features such delicacies as New Made Brawn, Deyntees of Mete, Thikke Soup of Green Peese, Syllabub and, of course, traditional Roast Ribbers of Angus Beefe. (Menu subject to change.)" >
List of Illustrations
● George and Mila Jean's 1971 Passport Photos
● Mila at the Kansas City Airport, June 14, 1971
● June 15, 1971: Paul in a fog at the Fogg Museum, and Matthew aboard Old Ironsides
● The Ehrlichs at 64 Eccleston Square, London
● George's Reader's Tickets to the British Museum
● The Ehrlichs aboard the Cutty Sark, June 20, 1971
● Evelyn Sessler with the Ehrlichs: June 21, 1971
● Mila Jean at Cooper's Supermarket
● The Ehrlichs at the Tower of London: June 25, 1971
● The Ehrlichs at Victoria Station: June 27, 1971
● The Victoria and Albert Museum
● The Ehrlichs at Maze Hill Station, Greenwich: June 30, 1971
● Mila Jean and Kris Huffman en route to and at Osterley House: July 4, 1971
● Paul and Matthew at Hampton Court: July 7, 1971
● The Ehrlichs at Kew Gardens: July 11, 1971
● The Ehrlichs at St. Alphege Church, Canterbury: July 13, 1971
● Mila Jean at the top of the General Post Office Tower: July 15, 1971
● The Ehrlichs at W.H. Smith: July 16, 1971
● Mila Jean climbing the Cambridge Church Tower stairs and watching punters on the Cam: July 22, 1971
● Joann Soulier with Mila Jean and the Ehrlichs in St. James's Park: July 28, 1971
● The Ehrlichs at Heathrow Airport: July 29, 1971
A Split Infinitive Production
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