Marie Gerules took us to the
airport and the Smiths were there to
see us off... Departed Kansas City without incident and on
time. Changed planes in Chicago and departed from there on
time and arrived early in Boston. While I went over to Avis to
pick up the [rental] car, Mila and the boys waited for the luggage. As
I received the Avis material, the family with bags materialized.
We walked with luggage to the car—we
can manage, which should ease things [in] London Wednesday morning.
We have a Plymouth Duster, which is called a compact. Seems
fairly big to me, and has power steering. Well, we followed
the signs and arrived without difficulty at the
The room is satisfactory, on the 12th floor with a view to the
north. We can see downtown etc. On the way to the motel
we went through MIT and went past the Saarinen Kresge Chapel...
As I write this,
it is 9:30 pm Boston time, and I am doubly pleased that we elected
to take this one-day break in our excursion, I feel weary and a
little headachy. I have a number of small packets of
which I have been taking with care. I trust the headache is
sinus and not sulfa pills. The "symptoms" are quieted down.
MILA JEAN: Departed on time [in
in Chicago early. Took off 3:50 to land [in] Boston
early—before 7:00 PM. Collected luggage & took out Avis car, a
dark blue Plymouth "Duster" with power steering—seemed huge to us.
Got through tunnel & over Charles River with little problem.
Motel [has] lovely view of buildings on river. Geo & I had sandwiches
upon arrival (7:30)—walked to store for candy bars until 9:00
PM. Bath & TV—marvelous comfortable
beds but Matthew couldn't
sleep. Neither could I, of
course. Tramp, tramp, tramp!
TUESDAY, JUNE 15
The morning was spent in Cambridge, principally in and around
Harvard. After an ordeal of driving looking for a place to
park and avoiding dense traffic, one way streets, [and] arrogant
pedestrians, we did settle on Oxford Street and in walking distance.
We visited the Busch-Reisinger museum which had a Bauhaus exhibit
on. Sad to say, except for some of the Klees, the stuff looked
more dated than illustrations suggest. Some of the work was of
archival interest, but major display stuff it was not. In some
ways the furniture has lasted best. From there we headed for
the Fogg. We noticed activity in the
[Harvard] Yard, so we cut in there
and bypassed the Fogg accidentally. They were setting up
chairs in the Yard for Commencement that will occur on Thursday.
We finally worked out way back to the Fogg. The Central Court
was being set up for a luncheon, and on inquiry I learned that it
was a Phi Beta Kappa affair. We had noted several people in
regalia beforehand. We spent very little time in the Fogg.
There was A Tribute to Taste: Favorite Works of Agnes Morgan which
was tastefully done, many drawings of course. I glanced at
some of the contemporary works. I photographed the boys and
Mila and later was asked by a guard if I had permission to
photograph. I apologized and noted the truth, that I had
photographed only my family. But next time, I must check ahead
and clear this. From the Fogg we headed back to the car.
We stopped at the University Museum on the way. We saw
principally the zoological displays, and did not see the
the same room. The boys were tired and restless.
Driving in Cambridge and Boston is insane. They still haven't
improved the marking of streets, and it took considerable stamina to
get back to the motel. There we had lunch, and then checked
out. Once again, there was a battle with streets and traffic,
but after considerable effort we did reach the Boston Naval Yard
and we toured the U.S.S. Constitution.
This was quite interesting and worth the effort. After the
Constitution we made a tortured trip around and around to the old
town and finally we found a place to park. We managed to see
the Bulfinch St. Stephen's (restored recently under the support of
Cardinal Cushing) and then to Old North Church. From there we
walked over to the Paul Revere house, but that and the late 17th
century brick house next door were closed by the time we got there.
Thus it was back to the car. We drove down Beacon Street, over
to Copley Square and wrestled through considerable rush hour
traffic. Trinity Church still looks good though the new
Hancock building next to it is going to be a big one.
this point it was prudent to try to head for the airport, even if it
was rush hour. Without recounting the experience in detail, we
made it through the tunnel and checked into Avis. There a
young man drove us to the terminal. We snacked in the terminal
and watched from the observation deck, and now we are waiting near
Gate 2 at the International Terminal as I write this. The book
is on my lap and writing is a bit cramped...
Pan Am 747 arrived (from Baltimore) and we boarded it after a fairly
thorough luggage search. We had a center row of four seats in the
middle cabin. From thence, all went fairly well and on time.
Cool weather, 60's-70's. Asleep until
8:15. To breakfast—& morning motor & walk tour of
Cambridge. Busch-Reisinger Museum (German), Fogg Museum &
University Museum (geology—zoology—gerbils etc.—fossils).
Very confusing driving. Back to motel for lunch & check out—owed
90¢ (had prepaid $25).
Harrowing drive to Naval Yard to see "Old Ironsides"; drive
to Heritage Square, harrowing walk through old parts of town.
Drive in bad traffic to Beacon Street. Decided to take car back to
airport at 5:00... [Had] milkshakes—watched planes on
observation deck. Watched 747 taxi in—huge
whale. Boarded after customs
check about 8:30.
London flight: June 15-16.
Fantastic seating for many people (300?!) in plane—patient
steward & girls. Served great meal 10:00-11:00.
Earphones. Saw part of
Jane Eyre 1100-12:30.
Dozed (swaying, switched on & off
lights). Paul sat through all. I awoke 2:00 AM our time
(7:00 theirs) while they were serving juice & rolls.
Very very smooth flight, hardly conscious of flying at all.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 16
short and fitful sleep we arrived at Heathrow where we landed at
about 8 a.m. London time, 3 a.m. Boston. Passport check was
routine, baggage claim was very slow, but customs waved us through.
I exchanged money, $100 cash for £40.55. Except for
specific purchases of a business sort, I think I shall take
one-third of my general expenses as personal maintenance. This
is, I feel, reasonable since the boys are modest eaters, and what
with our catering for ourselves, it is impossible to sort out
Well, with English money in hand, it was off to the Pan Am station
in the Victoria area. This cost me (as an individual, I shall
underline to clarify) this cost me
45p. Once we arrived at the Pan Am terminus I realized that
there were some hazards in trying to walk it. We were all very
tired, especially Paul, who had no sleep at all. A taxi driver
approached me, and I said we were going only to
He promised not to cheat me, which he did not, and we arrived in
fine style. He assisted with the boys, so I gave him a
generous tip [of] 15p and the total cost was 60p.
had no difficulty in locating the housekeeper, or perhaps caretaker
would be more to the point, and we were quickly shown up. One
room was ready, the other needed to be vacated (under way) and soon
we had both rooms. They are on the third floor (American
count) and we have #s 7 and 8. This is the entire floor except
for the bath. We share the bath with #5 below, but this should
be no problem. We have a telephone on the landing and relative
privacy. The facilities are adequate but not elegant. I
shall, of course, photograph them for the record. So the boys
received the front room, #8, with a view on the square, we took #7,
with chimney pots and roofs. It is slightly larger and has the
once settled, it was off on several excursions to size up the
neighborhood. It is an excellent location for everything.
Within short walks, we can have all services. I did not locate
a post office, but this was an oversight. I found sufficient
shops and markets on two excursions by myself to stock up our
larder. Then I stretched out and slept. Mila slept.
The boys both conked out while I was excursioning. After we
had rested several hours, Mila and I took a third tour and shopped
for several more items at the neighborhood supermarket. The
one thing I have not found is a decaffeinated coffee of any type.
return to the flat we discovered a lack of matches
[to light the gas stove], so Paul and I
went out to buy some. Strange little things and upon return we
prepared a light supper from our supplies. After another rest,
it was out for an excursion with the entire family. We tried
Vauxhall Bridge Road and the Victoria Station, the Coach Station,
the Underground, and accumulated travel information. We
returned along Wilton Road, and as far as I can see all is in good
order. We can sustain ourselves very well.
are, of course, rather tired, but I feel we all made the transition
quite well. The evening has been spent with the record [i.e.
the travel journal] and
with studying maps and travel data. Now it is a logical time
to call it quits for the evening.
Debarked 8:00 AM—many steps, walkways,
etc. No customs to speak of. Descended to get luggage on
our own hand cart. Out to Pan Am bus (Matt & Paul groggy) to
Pan Am terminal at 9:45. Finally staggered into cab to go to
64 Eccleston Square. Rooms #7 & 8 [of] 14 rooms. Coolish,
50°-60°. Inadequate lights. Only about 3-4
blocks—worth it rather than drag that mound of luggage
ourselves. Eccleston Square a nice surprise—white
townhouses surround beautiful private park. We have two large
rooms, one with 1 double bed, 1 single, 1 sofa, 1 wardrobe, table, 4
chairs, dresser, mirror, baby fridge (new), storage cabinet, sink,
little dirty stove. Boys have prettier room but less spacious
(overlooks park). 2 big chairs, twin beds, rest same.
Whole floor ours, bathroom big (supposed to share with #5).
Kids slept until
4:00. We buy
supplies & eat here (chicken soup, ham on rolls, lettuce &
tomatoes). Walk around until 8:00.
THURSDAY, JUNE 17
be noted in the crossouts [of previous date entries], I have been
confused as to the day of the week, numerically as well as
nomenclature. I have simply been off schedule and I trust it
won't last. After a morning which started by my getting up
early and studying maps and the classified phone book for key
addresses, I finally got the family alert and breakfasted—in a
manner of speaking. I had gotten only a pint of milk instead
of the quart I asked for—cereal was for only a few. The
morning was for immediate chores.
First we went to the Belgravia branch of Barclay's bank where we
deposited the $1,000 bank draft and opened an account... We
shall be cleared and receive a cheque book next Tuesday. I
shall write Mr. Pettey the information so that the Plaza Bank can
send over additional funds (Mr. Cread Pettey, a Vice President at
our bank). While waiting for the paperwork, Mila changed $100
in traveler's checks and received £41.03 for them. A
slightly better rate of exchange than yesterday.
From the bank we took the tube to the Marble Arch and began walking
Oxford Street seeking raincoats for the boys. Today began with
intermittent rain but clearly not difficult—only damp.
The afternoon/evening was splendid. We hit a number of stores,
including Selfridges, only to discover either nothing or fantastic
prices. So we ended in a Woolworths and bought plastic
raincoats for both [boys] at slightly less than £2. With
purchases like this and another mentioned below in mind, I need to
review my estimation of maintenance expenses. Since I shall
note specific expenses that relate to my project and my
transportation, I think it best to deduct these from our total
expenditures and then take 25% of the balance for my maintenance.
This should allow for raincoats, tote bags, and other small item
purchases, as well as a small allowance to the boys. I think I
shall take a tally each week, thus each Tuesday evening will be an
accounting. [In the left margin: "Calculation Day / Tuesday
Evenings"] The last week will be a long one. I feel the
estimate is defensible if I note any general expenditure of a couple
of pounds or more ($5+) separately and not take the 20% of that as
So much for that—on
with the narrative.
Oxford Street at Selfridges we did purchase some hitherto hard to
find food items—including instant Sanka for me. Also
there I purchased two "Pull-Push Rulers" with inches and
centimeters, one 10 ft 3 m, the other 6 ft 2 m. 76p and 59p
respectively. After returning to the flat I read
reminder and saw I was to get one for Nancy as well. I'm sure
I shall return to Selfridges for more supplies so I shall get
another 3 m rule in the do-it-yourself department.
We ate on Oxford Street (Whimpy's [sic]) and returned for a short
rest at the flat. After the rest, Mila and I found a post
office on [illegible] Road and purchased air letters and stamps for
air cards. From there we picked up the boys and went to
Victoria Station where we boarded a
[bus for a] two hour tour of London.
Considering the route and the horrible traffic, it went tolerably
well and was informative for all. It was not a real tourist
tour such as the tour companies have, but rather analogous to my
taking a candidate around the campus and Plaza area, etc. I
am, however, less droll than our Scot driver. Also I hope
clearer to hear.
to Victoria, we stopped in Woolworths on Vauxhall Road (also backs
on Wilton) and there purchased milk (they have a food department)
and a black tote bag for a very modest sum, less than a pound.
I cannot recall the sum at the moment. I will give it to
Matthew for the return flight, but shall use it here in London for
various purposes. It will work quite well for camera bag,
camera, umbrella and soft raincoat. Also can be used for
We then went to
Tesco (supermarket—sic) on Warwick Way, purchased
supper—beefsteak no less—and grilled it on our stove.
Our repast was fairly splendid. We bought some spices!
While I tend toward easy fatigue, I shall temper my activities
carefully. [Line scored through] (I'm getting vague)
This evening is a review period for many things. I've decided
to give, each Thursday a.m., to the boys an allowance of Paul £1
and Matthew 60p. We shall see if they are temperate.
Also, tomorrow morning I shall visit the British Museum (Natural
History) and make the contact that did not materialize through the
mails. Possibly in the afternoon I may try the British Museum
for my "reading room" tickets and familiarize myself with
procedures. The Saturday and Sunday sightseeing and general
museum visiting—e.g. Tate, and Monday I shall continue my
Off to Victoria Station—Barclay's
bank (Westminster branch)—then Oxford Street shopping—expensive—£20
for child's raincoat. Bought the boys' ones at Woolworths.
(Matthew's raincoat £1.25 = $2.90, Paul's raincoat 70p =
$1.68.) Selfridges for tapes & food goodies. (Pigeons!
everywhere.) Lunch at Wimpy's (hamburgers) Buck[ingham?]. To post
office. Two hour bus tour—2:45-4:45, "Dundee" with Scots
accent offering comments & driving bus too...
Some Grocery Items: Insta-Swiss
(product of Switzerland—Selfridges) slightly sweetened.
Vesta ready meal, chicken supreme with rice ("creamy white sauce
with veg. & tender chicken," serves 2) 26p. Sanka: 43p.
Yeoman Wondermash!! fluffy mashed potatoes (in bowl) 7½p. Crawfords Tuc snack crackers.
FRIDAY, JUNE 18
began with a single excursion in search of a custom photo processor.
My first try at a "large" camera shop on Vauxhall Bridge Road was
successful in that they directed me to the branch of
nearby on Victoria Street. There they informed me that they
could do "individual development," which means one roll at a time in
a tank. It isn't cheap, 35p per roll which is about 75¢ (vs.
about 27¢ [at home]), but it is super fine grain... So I shall
try them out. I gave them the roll of TX that includes K.C.
and Boston with the last two shots of window views here in London.
I've ordered contact prints as well. Mila has just pointed out that
Wallace Heaton is by appointment to Her Majesty the Queen, Suppliers
of Photographic Equipment. I note it does not say processing.
I can pick up the roll and prints on Monday. This will be a
great convenience if it works out.
With that out of the way, it was off to the
British Museum (Natural History) to establish contact. The
fact that I had not received an acknowledgement [of my letter
of inquiry] was a source
of concern to me. I began by making an inquiry at the
information desk. There was confusion at first. My
statements served no purpose, since they have five libraries (or was
it six?) and would I explain which one I wanted to visit? I
patiently explained that I didn't know for I never received a reply
to my letter of inquiry. So at last I was sent to the General
Library where I rang the bell, and was admitted by a doorman who had
me sign in. Then he took me to a reading room where a gentle,
portly, balding man with an armload of books came down to see what I
was about. My attempt to proffer my card was defeated by the
fact he had an armload of books. These he finally put down,
squinted at my card and listened to my story... He took to the
telephone and spoke with someone on the balcony, whom I gather was
the Director of the several libraries... This gentleman
came down to see me, holding a Xerox of my letter, and
thereon was a notation ... that they would support my project.
He was mightily perplexed by the fact that I had never heard from
them. His note was dated May 4th, my letter March 28th.
So he gave me assurances that I could use the materials—they
have the original Cook voyage drawings—which are in the Botany
Library and the Zoology Library. As for photography, that
[approval] would have to come from the Director's Office.
Apparently a Mr. Waight (or some such name) was the recipient of the
now missing letter of the which the Xerox remained, but he was no
longer in that post. A Mr. Cohen now was in that spot.
So it was another pair of phone calls... On the way to Mr.
Cohen, I was shown the Zoology Library, a curious vaulted aisle-like
room, quite narrow, and the Botany Library was identified for me,
and up a series of back stairs and narrow passages—really quite
primitive—we arrived in what were tiny, inadequate facilities
wherein I met Mr. Cohen. He tut-tutted, and begged ignorance
what with his recent arrival in his post. However, there was a
Mr. Woollcombe, a young man with much hair, who did recall my
inquiry and as he was involved in photography matters, he would
indeed process my requests. He searched files, Mr. Cohen
searched registers, but there was no record of a reply or action or
whatever. Much consternation by everyone but me. I was
not complaining, not critical. I merely wished to know how to
proceed in these matters. I was told that I should study the
drawings, etc. and make notation of those I wished to photograph,
and then I was assured that I would receive permission. In
turn, I told them that I would do nothing with these other than
study them, but if I did publish I would sent them a copy of each
item and seek specific permission for this. So they turned
back to the question of the missing letter... My, what a
Meanwhile Mila and the boys were viewing
the collections... On my exit from the general library, I had
noted a display of Cook materials, and just beyond it the entrance
into the Science Museum. I checked over the Cook displays—must
return to them for detailed note-making—and went into the Science
Museum where I was certain I would find the boys and Mila, And
there they were.
We ate in the Restaurant—such as it is—in
the Natural History Museum, and toured a bit more in the Science
Museum, where I purchased several publications and noted others I
should get. Then, in a light rain, it was off to the British
Museum... There I filled out another small form, signed the
register, and I received ticket C66033 which admits me to the
Reading Room, and thus the Map Room. Then, it was up to the
Print Room, which is open only at strange hours and the exhibition
room is closed for redecorating. So it was up by elevator with
an ancient attendant. A woman attendant had me sign the
register, and she assumed that I wanted to see prints. I
finally made it clear—she saw my official paper—that I was to obtain
a ticket. Ah! So a nice young man came over, cleared up
matters, gave me my ticket and informed me of some of the procedures
to be used. So that was accomplished.
We exited the British Museum—still
raining—went to the Tube and headed for Victoria. From there
we went to Woolworths' food dept where we purchased viand for our
supper. We managed a nice veal with a mushroom soup sauce (a
touch of Mila's sherry), and with salad and vegetables we had a
veritable gourmet meal.
After dinner it was review of materials and
writing up the ledger and this record. Now with the rain
outside, and a cup of Sanka by me, it is late and time to plan for
[Added to the next day's entry:] About
10:35 or so, last night, a knock at our door revealed the Resident
Manager, Mary Henderson, who announced to us that we had visitors
coming. I said, "When?" She said "Now!" I raced
downstairs—the boys were in bed and Mila was as well—I alone
dressed—and there was Evelyn and Albert Sessler. The confusion
was considerable. I explained matters. Albert was
telling Evelyn that he was right, it was too late.
Meanwhile it continued to rain. We exchanged a few words—they
had just gotten in and Evelyn was manic (probably no sleep for an
extended period)—and I suggested they call me tonight. Well
there has been no call, and if I do not hear from them tomorrow
a.m., I may call at their hotel. I gather they will leave for
Paris Monday or Tuesday and see Ily Szabo. A brief visit would
have been nice, but not at 11 pm with all of us dead tired.
So, off they went about 11 pm, in the rain, heading for Victoria.
Their car was deficient (a Volvo they picked up here) and whether
that is straightened out I do not know. Well, if anything
develops on this score, I shall note it down.
Bad sleep (caffeine?), up 8:30. Geo
out at 9:00 to photography store. We finally got off about
9:30 to South Kensington—Museum of Natural History & Science Museum
(cars, diesels, trains!). Lunch there. On, via tube, to
British Museum—had begun to rain (seemed cold to me—50°?)
Long endless stairs & waits for Geo to get permit pass to use
reading rooms. Had interesting time in manuscript room: Magna
Charta, letters from John & Sarah Churchill, Robert Burns
autobiography of first love affair—at age 15!
cooked) meal of veal & mushroom soup (with sherry & spices), green
beans, potatoes & Neapolitan ice cream.
Evelyn & Albert arrived here at 10:30 PM in the rain. Kids & I
in bed. Geo went down to speak to them. Told them to
call next evening. Had good sleep: 10:00 PM to 9:00 AM.
SATURDAY, JUNE 19
All of us slept later than usual—probably
a good sign that we are adjusting well—and the morning thus was
truncated. We used the Denbigh Street laundromat and concurrently
the boys and I went shopping. I did tolerably well except I
failed to get the vegetables I had intended. Also it began to
rain. Nevertheless, we did accomplish much, and was ready for
excursion by about 12:30. We went to Westminster [and] took a
tour of the Houses of Parliament, which was satisfactory for an
introduction. I might return later on my own to see some
aspects more clearly. One note, the guide was always poking at
"the girls," and I expect one day to hear that women's lib will have
tacked him to the door.
Westminster Hall is a grand interior, truly
splendid. A rather dark and almost gloomy interior, it must
have been a special effect when lighted by torches, or whatever was
used. With that completed—and fortunately the weather was
holding up—we went to the Abbey. We did not cover all of it,
but we did see the transepts, the cloisters, the treasures, and the
chapter house. Services in the Abbey cut short our visit (we
shall return for a tour of the nave, the lady chapel, etc.), and
this we did the exteriors of the two buildings. Photography is
not allowed in the church, but apparently it is O.K. in the
We returned in the later afternoon and the
evening has been routine.
Good day. No rain to speak of.
Even saw the sun
10:00 went out to "do" the laundry and shopping. Bad timing
because all of S.W. London doing same thing. Met interesting
American couple named Dale from Oregon State on six month sabbatical
leave. Had previously stayed at 64 Eccleston Square but didn't get back
in. Gave me tips on how to survive in England. Wash cost
one 10p piece [and] one 5p. Dry costs two 5p pieces (about 65¢-70¢).
Not cheap! Horribly crowded with people, children with
gum—steamy too. Geo came then, loaded down with groceries, and
we staggered home with various bags & suitcase, umbrellas, etc.
Ate ham sandwiches [and] then sallied out about 12:45 for
Westminster. Had an hour's tour of Houses of Parliament by a
very quaint old gentleman-guide & very thorough. Never been in
them before. House of Lords quite posh.
From there proceeded to Westminster Abbey. Most interesting
part was the chapter house with "goldish" 700-year-old floor so we had
to put on padded slippers over our shoes beforehand. All
stained glass windows through which the sun suddenly came out.
"Treasures of the Abbey" interesting with wax effigies of such
notables as William & Mary & Queen Anne, my old friends.
William, especially, looked like the TV star who played him in the
First Churchills. Cloisters also very charming, filled with
inevitable pigeons. Walked down bridge a way and George [sic] took
at 4:30 time out for crackers cheese & sherry. Dinner of baked
beans, peas, porked [sic] chops (garlic salted) grilled, etc.
Very good & God knows it saves on the money. Paul & Matthew
have baths. I washed my hair. Still no rain.
Note: "Ophelia," the maid, gets a phone call every morning at 10:00;
consequently "dusts" about in hall (especially around phone area) for a
half an hour beforehand. When phone calls comes, she settles
down for a lively chat (spoken back in volatile Spanish) whilst
sitting in a chair. The Dales say that the Spanish maids spend
all their time "cleaning" the hall, but little in the rooms
themselves. Mary, our caretaker, has a husband (Norman) who
"drives" all week and a chow dog who barks. Mary smokes a lot
and coughs a lot—very "chatty."
SUNDAY, JUNE 20
We gathered ourselves together and went
for a general promenade to the north, by Eaton Square
Square. We also checked out the BOAC and Pan Am depots which
were on our way. The Eaton Square area, part of the
Estate, is very posh indeed. Built in the same period as much
of the area, 1825-35 (according to my eye and the Blue Guide), it is
one of the more elegant and includes embassies. There is a
stateliness without frumpery to this architecture. It is
predictable, restrained, and in some ways dull; yet in matters of
scale and proportion it does quite well for itself. There is a
lesson here for architects yet. Also, the emphasis on plantings, if only in
pots or boxes, is really remarkable. Even from our rear window
in #7 we see them on improvised terraces below and to the sides of
Well, after a meagre lunch at a nearby
Wimpy's, we returned to the flat. I called the Sesslers—lo
and behold, they were in—and arranged for them to visit with us
tomorrow night at our place. Once that was settled, we were
We walked via Francis Street, behind the
Roman Catholic Cathedral, past the Army & Navy Stores to Victoria Street.
Then down to Westminster Pier. There we took the
Greenwich. The weather was gray and seemed always on the verge
of rain. Indeed it spit at us several times...
The Greenwich Hospital is truly impressive.
We only went into the National Maritime Museum, and even so saw only
a portion of it. I went for orientation, and did see the
public Cook display and purchased several items for study... We were returning by way of the river, hence we
had to watch our time rather carefully. We did a quick view of
the Cutty Sark (the Constitution was more interesting) but the main
point was how little cargo space there was aboard such a vessel.
There is much more for me to see out at
Greenwich, and I hope to work in the old observatory. But
first things first. It is remarkable—always is—how seeing
buildings change them insofar as impressions via photos are
concerned. The Queen's House by Inigo Jones—part of the
National Maritime Museum—is so different that that my preconception
had it. It is much more intimate and somehow less formal than
I had expected. It merits a return and more careful
photography by me when there is decent light. The National
Maritime Museum is logical and well presented. I did not have
adequate time to see everything, but I did get a feeling for the
place. I have some reading to do before I return. I
think I shall give the place a careful perusal in detail before I
approach the director's office, as per his suggestion. I want
to be informal...
Well there is much to do. I still
need to look at material acquired today. And tomorrow we shall
take care of chores and visit the National Gallery. Mila will
check on theatres, I shall check on the train to Greenwich.
Long walking today. Up early (7:30);
breakfast of bacon (?) [sic], scrambled eggs, etc.
Dales came by to pack & left some maps, etc. Walked out to
B.O.A.C. & Pan Am terminals, investigated. Long walk (in rain)
to Eaton Square (beautiful—Neville Chamberlain lived there) many
Bentleys & Rolls Royces around. Ate lunch at Wimpy's at Victoria (I
loathe their hamburgers),
back to house to "rest" for half an hour. Started out—on
foot—for Westminster—down to river
& board boat bound for Greenwich. Luckily stopped raining.
It was wonderful—with a friendly articulate young guide, but God,
does it get cold & windy & wet! Saw "Fagin's" area—oily &
ugly; site of Old Globe, etc. Arrived at 2:00, walked about.
Got into museum 2:30 where Geo went mad with Captain Cook memorabilia.
Had snack at restaurant. Went to Queen's House, designed by
Christopher Wren [sic].
Went aboard Cutty Sark—very crowded.
Hurried back to boat bound for Westminster: smaller, colder, unnarrated and
cold. (Feel an
earache coming on.) Got back home after 6:00 for supper of
grilled cheese or ham or peanut butter sandwiches & salad. Geo
& I had hot baths. Finally [the sky] cleared off—no rain at night.
MONDAY, JUNE 21
Began by dropping film off at Wallace
Heaton. From there we went grocery shopping and it took all
four of us to carry things back. Once this was settled we were
off to town... We began our in-town visit by stopping at
Charing Cross Station where I ascertained procedures to take the
train to Maze Hill (by National Maritime Museum). This would
be 11p one way, with trains about every 20 or 30 minutes. From
there it was up the Strand, through Covent Garden, Shaftesbury Street
etc. for theatre tickets. Mostly for Mila, but I shall go to
several [plays] with her. These expenses will not be included
in my charges to the grants, and I am keeping a separate record of
these and other major purchases starting on page 51 of the ledger.
Thus they can be subtracted before I do the 20% accounting, along
with other specially recorded expenses.
The National Gallery is noticeably spruced
up since my visit of 1966. And the work still goes on. I
did a general walk-through, purchased some relevant study material
and called it a first visit. As usual the
is an amazing grab bag. Some well worth exhibiting pieces, and
some real curios. You could stock a major collection with
items from the Reserve...
This evening Evelyn and Albert Sessler came
by to visit, and we had a nice chat. They are on a three month
tour of Europe, and they have picked up a Volvo. Brave man to
hand drive and left hand traffic. My my—would I do it?
Sun came out! Up early 7:45.
At 9:00 we went forth (more maps & supplies from the Dales) for
grocery shopping at Woolworths—home loaded down. Out at 10:30
to Charing Cross station (to check rail times), thence to
Theatre [and] Covent Garden for theatre tickets (ending up spending about £18.00
for ten theatre tickets, including two to see Nureyev dance!).
Interesting seeing market & fruit men around Covent Garden (there is
a kind of apple here called "Granny Smith"—they're green).
Went to National Gallery for lunch—horribly
crowded and, though cheap enough, not awfully tasty or clean.
"Sweets" in abundance.
around with kids for 1½ hours while Geo went alone. Two
more theatre tickets—then home. Got card from Greece from
Delphi—she may arrive in about ten days.
TUESDAY, JUNE 22
Began this day by doing some shopping (by
myself) and discovered a "new" supermarket (Coopers) very close to
us on Wilton Road. Made a number of purchases there.
They have a decaffeinated coffee there—instant—CaffeeHag
(sp?) [sic]. Then off to the post office to purchase stamps,
and then over to the bank where I obtained our checkbook (but forgot
to ask what our £ balance would be—it
was $1,000 deposited—must do that on Thursday). Also cashed
$100 in travelers checks and received
£41.03 at exchange of 2.42¼... Once the financial matters were
settled (in the morning) I was off to the British Museum (Natural
History). There I separated from the family and went first to
the Botanical Library...
Soon it was time to reunite with family for
lunch... So we all had lunch in the Science Museum and then
split up again.
I checked over, very briefly, the photography
display—fairly impressive—in the Science Museum. Then
purchased a couple of books in the bookstore, and back to Natural
History. Located the Zoology Library, rang the bell and a
young lady—after some minutes—came and opened up. This turned
out to be the librarian herself, Mrs. Datta. We had an
excellent chat and she seemed quite interested in my project...
Mrs. Datta recommended two books for me, one the Rienits Early
Artists of Australia which I had knowledge of, and the other,
Bernard Smith['s] European Vision and the South Pacific,
Oxford, 1960. This was a real find, clearly relevant to my
project. Datta told me it was in paper[back].
So from that experience—quite positive—we
walked to Harrods. But after a short time there, the boys
seemed close to passing out. We returned to the flat, left the
boys, and Mila and I went back out. We headed for
Cross Road and there at the Oxford University Press outlet I bought the
Smith book. Up to Foyles and asked after the Rienits.
They did not have it. (Shame!) Mila and I got additional
theatre tickets. With that done, back late to the flat.
Had dinner and turned to record keeping. In the midst of this,
circumstances required me to defrost the fridge in #8 (the boys'
room). This was a mess, but I used the time for some review of
books, etc. purchased.
So it was a busy but profitable day.
Tomorrow, alone, I excursion to Greenwich
to make contact there.
Very busy day. Geo went to
market 8:30—new "super" market. We
all left about 9:30 for South Kensington Natural History & Science
Museum. Spent 10:00-11:30 "doing" Science (ate 11:30-12:00) ,
then spent 12:00-1:30 seeing rest of it: fabulous, especially photography.
At 1:30-2:30 dragged up to Harrods, children obviously tired & out
of sorts. Saw most of "Food Halls" &
were going to books, but Geo decided then & there to take
kids home & go out by ourselves. Home to Victoria at 3:00,
dumped them and out again! Visited Oxford & Penguin bookstores,
Foyles (bought theatre costumes book) and three more theatres for tickets.
Last one was in Mayfair Hotel. Started home but ended up on
train going wrong direction! Took half hour to clear up the
mess. Home by 5:30 or so. Meal of "steak," corn &
instant mashed potatoes.
from Mom by 4:30 post. Wrote letters & cards. Have sore
throat & sniffles.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 23
Today began the second week in London.
We're developing a routine, with the advantages coming from it.
I do a spot of marketing first thing in the morning. Sometimes
alone, other times with one or more of the family. Then it is
off on whatever tops the day's register.
Today I went to Greenwich by train.
That part went without difficulty and I exited at Maze Hill, a real
whistle stop (I must photograph it next time) but it is only a short
walk from the National Maritime Museum. I went in and asked
for Mr. Waters, the Keeper. It was he who had answered my
letter. Well, Commander Waters was on holiday until
Monday, but Mr. Stimson, Assistant Keeper in the Navigation Department,
came down to meet me. He kindly took me up to his area for a
chat. He pointed out that while the Department of Navigation
and Astronomy was the one responsible for putting up the Cook
exhibit, the matter of the pictures came under a different
Department, that of Pictures (which includes prints, drawings and
photographs). There is also a Department of Manuscripts and
one called Library. Mr. Stimson kindly took me to the Picture
Department... They are rather particular about photos, and
they do have a considerable number of negatives, but I [was]
informed that there is a period delay in making prints, and further,
the purchase of a photograph "does not carry with it the right to
make a reproduction in any form." They allow handheld
no-flash photography in the museum, but glass on paintings create
Once outside I decided to take advantage of
the clear (sic) and sunny day for some photography...
Two rolls completed, I decided to head back home. Upon arrival
at Victoria, I picked up the film from Wallace Heaton. I felt
that the processing is a bit too much, and thus asked that they
reduce the time by 10%. This elicited some surprise, but it
went down on the sheet...
Well so much for that. The evening
was clearing up matters and doing a bit of writing.
Geo to Greenwich alone. Me out to Sloane Square with kids—to
Smith bookstore, bought a Dorothy Sayers Peter Whimsey [sic]
book, Matthew got a car, Paul a book. Went up & down Kings Road
looking at the swinging shops—being posh & mod, Bought Geo a
pair of tongs at Peter Jones store in Sloane Square, On to home
11:30 for lunch. Off to theatre—Aldwych for
Old Times. Strange play—what do white & earth colors mean?
The day began with my visiting Coopers for
purchases for the day, and thence off to the bank. There I
exchanged $100 in travelers checks and received
£41.03. Also checked on my balance in our account, and that
was £412.34. We also received our first billing for the rooms.
Seven nights less deposit £42 less £12 or £30. That means we
are paying about $13.50 for the two rooms per night. This is a
real bargain considering all things.
I then took the tube to South Kensington.
Walked a bit on Exhibition Road, went into the Science Museum...
I then stopped in the Geological Museum. After a walk around I
do not feel that it can be of use to me, and I think I shall bypass
contacting Mr. Thackery and let him go on his holiday in peace...
I spent the bulk of the day in the Zoology Department Library...
I've been reading Bernard Smith's book
European Vision etc. in the evenings and early mornings.
It is a good work (so far) with copious citations. It should
prove to be very helpful.
I've given some thought to my report to the
American Philosophical Society, and have a working title for it and
perhaps either a paper or an article, "The Age of Exploration and
the Uses of Art":
a) The Voyages of Captain Cook
b) The Missing Artist on the Lewis &
c) Scientific Illustration and
Clearly a) would relate to the present
project. Tomorrow I think I shall check on a few of the
artists in the catalog of the Print Room at the British Museum.
We may go to the Tower first, and then back to the Museum.
Kids & I walked down to Westminster Abbey—saw
tombs of Kings (Queen Elizabeth I, William & Mary, Charles II & Queen Anne
together! ). Walked up Birdcage Walk to Buckingham Palace
11:00 AM—crowds of people, though [the
Changing of the Guards] ceremony didn't begin for thirty minutes.
Half of time couldn't see at all. Walked back for lunch 12:45.
Me out at 1:45-2:00 to Waterloo Station—horrible job of getting to
Old Vic, only to find box office had been moved.
Finally got tickets, but seems that they try to make it difficult.
After walking a way in wrong direction finally got back. Cold
bad. Dinner: pork chops, chips, green beans.
FRIDAY, JUNE 25
After marketing, went over to Wallace
Heaton to deposit the film, and being recognized they gave me the
film I took in from Wednesday's session. The interiors were
fine, but the exteriors were a bit overexposed. This despite
my reducing development time by 10% (or so I was assured). I'm
not certain wherein lies the problem—a point to work out before I
take photos for record...
We went to the Tower of London. It is
interesting but so full of people it is a bit like shopping during
the Christmas rush. I doubt if my impressions or photography
are worthy to the monument. The one spot most impressive to me
was the Chapel of St. John. This, a pure Norman interior,
quite small but very austerely elegant. The Jewel House is
impressive for its logistics as for its contents. I have to
admit, the armor and the old towers appeal more to me as objects for
The family split after a lunch (of sorts).
They went back to 64 Eccleston Square and I to the British Museum...
I reread my observation of yesterday on a
possible interrelationship of the three papers. Now I think I
shall go for a short coherent monograph—hopeful me—in which I
discuss the three cases. What I may do is shorten and
"simplify" the CAA paper to stress the difference between the
picturesque and romantic naturalism and suggest the influence of the
exploration aspect for AQ submission. I'll
use the Scandinavian material to
highlight the romantic naturalism aspect. Must also give
proper citation to Bernard Smith. I now think the
three-part long essay is feasible, and I can cover part three without
damage to the larger project.
So, regardless of any other
accomplishments, I have clarified this aspect of scholarship.
It also gives me a manageable goal to work for and explain to
Tower of London. Steep winding staircase to Bloody Tower of
great interest. Ate opposite—not too
good. Home at 12:30-1:00. Did laundry with Paul's help.
Still tedious. Wrinkled Geo's shirts by too-hot & dry job.
Ate "out" at Old Kentucky—pretty sad. I had "lasagne"—not much
taste, let alone Italian. Came home, read & wrote a letter to
British couple uses phone every
night—"Hello? hello? Are you there?"(!)
As these things sometimes happen, I awoke
and while not quite alert to matters had several thoughts about my
project, and quite surprisingly these thoughts were concise and
relevant. So I got up and proceeded to outline them in my
notebook. Within a fairly short time I had a short book
outlined insofar as chapters and orientation are concerned. It
is a development of the plans of Thursday. In brief it is as
II The Need for
III The Cook Voyages
V The Missing
Artist on the Lewis & Clark Expedition
Illustration and Romantic Realism
VII A Conclusion
The title remains as before: "The Age of
Exploration and the Use of Art."
I think it may all work out fairly smoothly
and well—I think. With that sort of focus now at hand, I can
see the parts more clearly and what I can or should
doing while here in England. The Cook role is more rationally
conceived, and Chapter VI will permit me to include the Scandinavian
In the later morning we went shopping for
the boys at Selfridges, and then over to the
As before, impressive pile and collection. The glass on the
paintings is terribly distracting... I was intrigued by the
Dutch animal/bird pieces as well as some curiously light
van Huysums. This aspect of natural history representation still
escapes me somehow. I feel there is a tie-in and simply do not
see the bridge. I need to learn more about Flemish and Dutch
history or whatever to make the tie which I feel must exist.
Possibly through the great printers?
From the Wallace, after a lunch, we went
over toward Gray's Inn. At our tube station on High Holborn,
just at the markers for the City [of London], is Staple Inn, which according to
the Blue Guide is 1586 (last restored in 1950). After a walk
around Gray's Inn—rather
unprepossessing—we went to John Soane's Museum. There, as I
recall, we could traverse more in 1966 than now. But it still
remains a rather special treat of a place. We then returned to
quarters where I read for the remainder of the afternoon.
In the evening, Mila and I went out to the
theatre. Saw Kean. I must confess the matter of
dates is, for me, disturbing. I need to put these clear in my
mind. The play was well done, [but] had some
inconsistencies—such as 1820's and taking a steamship to New York.
At any rate, that accounts for the day.
Interesting day, though I was too cold. Went to Selfridges via
the Tube. Bought books and a magic game for Matthew.
From there to Wallace Collection, gorgeous house, beautiful French
art. Past Irish House (must go back). At a "Buster's" on
same street—good food! I had
asparagus soup, roasted ham/cheese/tomato sandwich & fresh orange
juice. Went by Tube to Lincoln's Inn and to John Soane's
museum (really one of the most interesting of all) his own house &
his own collection. On home—Geo cooks "stew," I wash Matthew's
See Kean this night. Really
good, though almost three hours long (two intermissions).
marvelous comic technique. Interesting though "talky" Sartre
play but mainly vehicle for lead male. What is real (acting) &
what isn't? seems to be theme. Had a gin & tonic beforehand
SUNDAY, JUNE 27
The later morning was spent making a
number of photographs of scenes and sites familiar to us in our
routine here. Included was the tube station and Victoria
Station as well as some street scenes. Continued my studies of
Bernard Smith, especially the bibliography which I both annotated
and made notes on re: use of library facilities. I have
decided to go back to the British Museum tomorrow and seek a ticket
to the manuscript room so that I can see the several which have
illustrations relevant to Cook. Then on the morrow following
(Tuesday) it will be the V[ictoria] & A[lbert] with a request to use the library
there. Wednesday should be the National Maritime Museum again.
As the data interacts I think I can be a little more efficient in my
About 1:30 pm we walked down to the
The Tate on Sunday is a bit much, and what with the crowds and a
tired family, all I was able to do was to survey the arrangement of
the collections and purchase some materials. The Tate is much
refurbished and it looks quite well in the interior. The
Turners are much better displayed than last time [i.e. George's
previous visit in 1966]. There is a
special exhibit entitled Constable: The Art of Nature, that is both
interesting and clearly relevant to my work. It comes down
July 4th, next Sunday, so I shall devote Thursday afternoon to it
and to the Tate—all alone...
Walked around area here, taking pictures of things we do:
Woolworths, Victoria Station, Underground—in
morning. Lunch here—bean with bacon soup & sandwich.
Walked to Tate Gallery in Millbank down Vauxhall Rd. Huge
crowd waiting for it to be opened. It's a fantastic gallery
(particularly liked Turner & Pre-Raphaelites) but too many people,
too little circulation of air—felt suffocated. Walked back
through big rain shower which stopped when we got back home.
Had sherry, beefsteak, potatoes, green beans
& cookie. Washed Paul's hair. Two American girls from
Berkeley "take over" the bathroom every other night, washing their
long hair & taking baths (takes hours!).
Several local area errands (such as
grocery shopping etc.) occupied part of the morning. Continued
my reading, and after an early lunch was off to the British Museum
via Wallace Heaton (where I dropped off a roll of film). At
the British Museum I first went to the Director's Office (as they
call it), and after waving my reader's ticket got admitted by the
attendant. After a brief consultation I received a ticket for
the manuscript room. Mila and I visited several sections
upstairs, largely Roman England, and then I went to the Print Room
for its afternoon opening. (The boys were at home)...
Tomorrow I shall make contact with the V&A.
There is at least one book there I want to read on early English
watercolors. And I might excursion to Haymarket to
House where a bookseller by the British Museum informs me
Robertson maintain a bookshop (he believes). And pretty soon I
best get back to the Natural History Museum to work over—a tedious
job considering the state of my knowledge—the historical drawings.
I best check my bibliographies before I go too far.
A side note on prices. Food on the
whole is not cheap. Lamb is probably the best buy, with pork
close behind. I here speak of the better cuts of meat.
Prepared and packaged is more expensive than in the little butcher
shops, but I haven't attempted that (I do most of the marketing
early in the morning). Minced steak (better quality hamburger
or ground beef) is about 90¢ US per lb. Roasting chickens are
about all the chickens you see and likewise fairly expensive.
Beef varies depending on the cut and source. Cheese varies
widely with many types and many sources. Since packaging is so
very different it is hard to compare on many items whether in cans
or boxes. Bread is in rather small loaves with thin slices.
Similarly, eating out (which we do little of) varies, and a sandwich
can be anywhere from 18¢ up to 75¢. London is as various as it
comes, and I haven't the time, the inclination, nor the reason to
scout it all out. As far as I can tell these quarters and our
mode of catering are well within our budget and generally fairly
Good day. Went shopping—bought many things. Came home &
unloaded, then I set out on foot to hunt for lodgings for
no avail. Geo & I went to British Museum together, I suffering
from too hasty eating of a peanut butter sandwich & chips. We
went around together to see clocks display, etc., then he left me at
2:00—to meet at 4:00. I walked around Greek sculpture & wrote
some cards, then back to manuscript room (still my favorite).
Bought a seal (of wife of Charles I) for £1.79, then met Geo. We
went to Victoria Post Office & mailed letters, then bought bottle of
sherry & cheese biscuits. Wrote letters & read up on V&A
museum. Geo & I took baths.
[on a British
Museum postcard of Shakespeare, addressed to the UMKC
English Department in which Mila Jean had been a part-time lecturer
If my feet and legs hold out, I may just
make it. This tour is almost too much for even me (my walking
to & from the Plaza is nothing). I do believe it's the
millions of steps which do me in! It's still cool, though the
sun comes out occasionally. We are seeing and doing much.
Saw Pinter's latest play the other day with Vivien Merchant, his wife. Tried to get tickets for
Olivier's Merchant but all sold out. We settled for
Paul Scofield and Christopher Plummer instead. Tell
Fred I saw the
Hanzel [sic] and Gretel hotel today (all sold).
Every place in London is filled to the brim, mostly with Americans.
We have tickets for two Old Vic productions (one Coriolanus).
[signed] Mila Jean.
TUESDAY, JUNE 29
After marketing, went off to the
and Albert. What a grand conglomerate. Here too evidence
of improvements since my earlier visit. Actually visited only
a few of the galleries, and this unsystematically. I did
consult with Public Relations and learned that using the print room
in the Library was no great problem. Just sign in in the Print
Room, and I was given to understand that I should have little
trouble in getting a Readers Ticket for the Library (which I did not
visit this time)...
Last night, as I was readying for sleep, I
realized that the tentative title "The Age of Exploration and the
Uses of Art" was both ambiguous and stilted. I need something
more self-evident. Possibly I can use "The Artist and
Scientist in the Age of Exploration." Certainly this is a
better one, but suggests an equality of treatment which is wrong.
"Art and Exploration" may be more succinct and more specific.
A subtitle might then be "The Uses of Art in Scientific
Expeditions"—ugh, no, too clumsy. "A Study of the Uses of Art
for Scientific Voyages." No as well. Perhaps, "Art and
Exploration, 1780-1850," with subtitle "Art in the Service of
Science during the Age of Exploration" [last five words scored
through]. That might be it...
Well it is the National Maritime Museum tomorrow.
I need to reread my notes from last time to ensure I have print room
[After calculating the past week's "general
family expenses" and 25% of these "for personal maintenance":] The 25% factor is admittedly arbitrary.
I am not reducing family expenses by their local
transportation (which could be up to
£2.50 or so per week), but on the other hand I travel more.
Are my outside meals or needs more? There is such as my
pressing of trousers, purchase of newspapers, and whatever.
After due consideration, the difference between 20% and 25% is about
£2 a week. Perhaps this is excessive to cover the difference,
but I think not. I am spending (based on 25%) less than $3.50
per day for maintenance and I am haggling over about 65-70 cents a
day. No, I shall stick with the 25%.
Went to Victoria & Albert Museum—walked right from subway into
Museum at 10:00 AM. What a fabulous place! My favorite
parts are period rooms, costume collection, and musical instruments
(sliding out trays & recorded music). Matt & Paul strangely
enough related more to cartoons of Franco-Prussian War, rather than
any other exhibit.
Went to Piccadilly searching for book at New
Zealand House for Geo but no soap. Back home. Paul & I
did [a] wash, & then I washed out a jacket at home. Had elaborate
meal: roast beef, fresh mushrooms, mashed potatoes, fresh raw veg &
fruit salad, dessert. Mountains of dishes to wash, though!
We're supposed to go to Greenwich, if Kris doesn't arrive first.
American girl on phone calling "Edna" is getting on my nerves.
Ditto her heavy-footed kid above.
£42 a wk rent—$200 for us to live.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 30
The day was spent at Greenwich.
After marketing and miscellaneous matters, we went to Charing Cross
Station. There was a wait there, so I put the 180mm lens on
and shot test exposures in the station (which has skylights).
Also shot a couple of 80mm shots for our series "Going to the
Natural Maritime Museum." We got there in good order (Matthew
was quite enthused about the train ride, which is electrified as a
subway but with train-type cars). At the museum I concentrated
on getting my work done in the print room...
I was able to get in a few photographs
outside, including several test 180mm, and then it was time to
return to Maze Hill. The 4:07 was cancelled and we ended up in
Cannon Street Station—a jam up if ever I saw one. We did
manage to extricate ourselves, find our way to the Underground
(station under construction) and return home...
So I managed to make progress. I
think tomorrow morning might be spent seeing the things at the V&A
so I can see about setting up a photography date. The
afternoon I shall spend at the Tate and see the Constable show
before it comes down. Friday, back to the British Museum and
see how far I can get in completing that study.
As we finished supper we received a call
from Kris Huffman. Mila went out to meet her outside of
Victoria Station. I wonder if I shall see either before 10 pm.
Went to Greenwich by rail—a very interesting experience. Just
missed a train at Charing Cross—waited almost an hour for another.
Train very antiquated. Leapt off at Maze Hill. Had nice
long stay at Observatory, lovely sunny day; walked up high
hill—looked at London through telescope. Came down & met Geo
for lunch, fighting off hordes of British schoolchildren.
Spent two hours going through museum again. Nelson collection steam
ships—even had a real 1960 first class cabin of a Canadian boat!
Home late (6:00), due to cancelled train & sitting at Maze Hill for
Kris phoned at 7:30(!) from Victoria Station,
I went up to get her, eventually found [her] a room at 101 Belgrave Road.
Came back here after lugging suitcases etc. all the way up there &
she had dinner here. She brought us three bottles of wine.
She left at 10:00.
THURSDAY, JULY 1
Began by taking in a roll of film to
Wallace Heaton and picking up the one taken on the 25th and 27th...
Also went to the bank and drew out £50.
I must make a decision soon on how much more should be transferred
into this account. Spent the morning and early afternoon at
the V&A... Everyone is very cooperative in the various
museums. I feel that I shall cover all that I need to see in
good time and order... I did take out some time to look at the
early medieval ivories and enamels, and the tapestries.
From the V&A I went to the City [of London]
to Australia House for the purpose of buying (if possible)
the Rienits Early
Artists of Australia. When I finally found the bookshop I
discovered the door locked and a sign indicating that the Angus &
Robertson bookstore was closed with the last day of operation 30
June. Ah well, it is hard to tell if they had the book anyway.
I shall return to the Zoological Library to read in it before I
depart London, and if it is worth my purchase I shall pursue the
I returned home then. Oh yes,
Australia House was filled with people busy reading papers from home
which are well distributed here and there in the large vaulted
After a brief rest I walked over to the
Tate. I looked more closely at the Constable exhibit—which
was less impressive than I first thought, but quite interesting
nevertheless. Then I looked at the newly opened exhibition of
contemporary sculpture, a gift of sixty large sculptures by seven
people. By and large it was—for me—dull and really not too
good. William Turnbull struck me as the most interesting of
the lot, and he was not all that exciting. They seem bound and
determined to show no influences of Moore, Hepworth, Butler, etc.
and thus their work sprawls in a kind of fussy minimal, color-field
Then back to headquarters to rest. My
left shoulder has been giving me fits all of a sudden. I felt
it coming up for two or three days but I thought it would hold even
or taper off. Finally took some Bufferin. I may need
Tomorrow the British Museum and the Print
Room. Hope that can wind it up.
Kids and I went to grocery shop—came back heavy laden. From
there went by Tube to Sloane Square where we went to Smith's
bookstore, from there to Royal Court for theatre tickets & then up
King's Road. Went to Peter Jones—bought chopping block &
tea towels—very cute. Went back home—stopped at Woolworths.
Ate lunch in room.
Left about 1:15 for the New [i.e. National] Theatre—got a
little confused but arrived about 1:45 to meet Kris. Had a
lager beer at darling pub across from theatre. Performance of
Rules of the Game began at
3:00, ended at 4:45 (with twenty-minute intermission). A very strange & difficult play!
But Paul Scofield is gorgeous. Plowright really didn't get to
me—or is it Pirandello?
Finished my studies (as far as I know) in
the Print Room of the British Museum... My study of the
drawings and prints, in the British Museum and elsewhere, has been a
real learning experience. The variety of institutional
organizations, the various methods of presenting and handling
prints is quite informative as to modes of thinking and valuation.
It would be so nice if one could simply bang away with a camera as
one looks at the material. It would complicate matters for
everyone but at least the British Museum's Print Room is cooperative
in doing this after the fact. The elaborate forms are a bit of
So as things stand I've surveyed the Print
Room in the British Museum, the National Maritime Museum, and the
Victoria and Albert. I've reviewed the relevant material in
the Zoological Library of the Natural History Museum. I still
need to do the Botanical Library of the N.H.M. [Natural History Museum]. Also I should
be systematic in working over, with notes and camera, the displays
in the National Maritime Museum. I have yet to go out to Kew
Gardens, and I have not contacted the Geographical Society. I
should try to make inquiries at India House...
I also purchased a Guide to England to
assist in making excursions to at least Oxford, Cambridge and
Canterbury. I shall study time tables at the relevant railway
terminals. Then too I've been buying postcards as they might
relate to my project. Got six at the British Museum today.
Mila and the boys went with Kris Huffman
excursioning today, and she will sup with us tonight. I note
by my little notebook that we are scheduled for the theatre tonight
and tomorrow night. So I guess I should plan a temperate day
This evening we saw
A shallow play well presented but really for the girdle crowd.
Just goes to show that Olivier (his production) and all the
trappings cannot make a significant experience or jolly
entertainment out of a lightweight.
Interesting day. Kris came by early, and she & I & kids went
to Bermondsey Antique Market—had to go clear out to Elephant &
Castle [Station], then transfer to a bus (was Matt happy!)—old news seller with
one tooth assisted us. Interesting stuff for about a whole
block—Paul fell in love with an old (1870?) edition of
—got it for £1. Matt got an old King George (?)
33p. Kris got a powder pot for £7.50. From there we went
to Goodge Street—had lunch at Old Kentucky—and then went to
toy museum. Fascinating—each story just one room crammed with
old toys. I bought a plan of Globe Theatre & two tiny paper
theatres. Staggered back. Kris & I walked (!) to
Chelsea & shopped. Found interesting eating place, serving
good orange drink. Shopped at Safeway—dragged all
groceries back on Tube. Had fish sticks for dinner.
Went to Amphitryon. Wonderful
costumes, acting & sets but awfully weak play directed by L.
Olivier. Chris Plummer—good form (physically at least).
SATURDAY, JULY 3
Kris and Mila went off for the day on a
schedule not clear to me. The boys and I did the marketing,
then... went out to Kensington Palace where first we went through
the State Apartments. This was very interesting, and I think I
shall go back one more time before we depart. I need to get
the feel of the details. Then we went over to the
Museum. While interesting it lacks the space and the logical
traffic which would facilitate its study. Many
were useful, and some unusual displays. In neither did I get
enough insights, although the Palace does provide some background
for "my period" which I am studying.
After a pick-up lunch, the boys and I went
to St. Paul's. We did the crypt, the whispering gallery, and
the stone gallery. The space is still an impressive one, but
the fabric of the structure is suffering.
Climbing passages in
circular fashion does give one pause when the matter of planning
these buildings [is] concerned. I wonder how they did it?
Pick a pier and say this has a spiral staircase? Well it was a
different kind of experience.
Then it was back to the flat. I
rested and read and after our supper time, Kris went her way and
Mila and I went to see Forget-Me-Not Lane, a very well done
play which I enjoyed both for content and for production.
Thus endeth Saturday. Tomorrow
morning I shall study, do photographs, and wash my hair. After
lunch I think we shall go out to Osterley—with the camera.
Big day. Geo took boys to London Museum, Kensington
Palace and St. Paul's. Kris & I went to Harrods—walked all
around hunting toy department—saw all of furniture floor—exotic bath tubs,
etc. Went to "Mod" Department, bought aprons. From there went
down to Fleet Street, had lunch at Cheshire Cheese (good steak &
kidney & game pie, 80p, & lager beer—£1.25 with 10% service), ate
with interesting older couple. He was Chairman Oriental
Languages UCLA. Went upstairs & saw old tap room (barrels for
tables). Went to Dr. Johnson's house and had a good look
around. Interesting old Queen Anne building. From there
went to Piccadilly—went to theatre & bought tickets to
Haggerty (a mistake)...
Did not like play, very crude & derivative (toilet jokes,
etc.). Left before it was over. Came back 5:30.
Rushed through steak dinner. Went to see
Good script, acting, & unit set (six doors). Home at 11:45!!
Did some copy photography in the morning,
and shot some views of the rooms as well. I should also do the
lobby, staircase and toilet door etc. for the record. Then
turned to some reading. Have tried to block in times for
places like Brighton, Oxford, Cambridge, Canterbury and Hampton
Court so that they won't interfere with work to be done here in
After lunch, we all went out to Osterley
(Kris Huffman came along). All went well except they were
doing track repairs on the Piccadilly Line and we all had to debark
at Hammersmith and take a bus to Acton Town where we boarded another
train. The same was required in the reverse. It was
quite confusing at first, but in due time we arrived at
Then there was the long walk to the House. A very impressive
structure which finally made sense to me now that I could see it in
the round as it were. The rooms are quite splendid and it does
help to visit these estates and great houses, not only for my
classes, but they give me some feeling for the environment of the
virtuoso, the dilettante of the period under principal
investigation. For example, while reading the Guide a few
minutes prior to writing this journal entry, I came across a
reference to [Joseph] Banks and a bird menagerie that indicate the
currency of that first voyage [of Captain Cook]. The citation
is from a letter by Horace Walpole. I wonder if I should get
into this more thoroughly? Ah me, there are so many leads to
Only a few of the so-called State Rooms
were open at Osterley—on the piano nobile, and these I
studied in two complete circuits with several side returns. I
had the camera along, and I took some twenty exposures there and on our
return. So all in all it was a rather full day. The
remainder of the evening will be spent revisiting fiscal matters.
I must decide if more funds should be transferred to our account
Another long day. Kris came by at 9:00 AM & we
walked to ceremony at Horse Guards—quite interesting & one could
get close to the guardsmen—took photos. From there we walked
to Buckingham Palace, & saw beginnings of second changing. But
best part was getting there—through St. James Park via pond, ducks,
& rose gardens.
Left & went to pub for lunch on Buckingham
Palace Road—got back at 12:30-45. Just in time to leave again
for Osterley (20p). Quite a way out. All would have
been fine except they removed Tube service between Hammersmith &
Acton Park & [we] had to queue up to get on buses (each way)—rather fun,
though. Got to station & had to walk (about a mile) to the
home itself. Fantastically well preserved 18th century home.
Went all around it twice. Had refreshments outside old
stables. Walked back by way of pond & ducks. Home trip
much the same as going, except we got on a double decker (top deck,
of course). Back about 6:00—had lamb chops.
Walked around after dinner with Kris
(saw Dolphin Square & new school). Went to her hotel and saw
her purchases. Home exhausted.
After taking in two rolls of film (and one for Paul and Mila) and my
gray slacks/jacket to be cleaned, I headed for the British Museum.
Oh yes, last night I calculated that we had sufficient funds on hand
for all normal and predictable expenses, but possibly not for a
major expense such as a flight to Paris or a long excursion north
(or whatever). Thus I wrote to Mr. Pettey to transfer an
additional $500 to our account here.
Arrived at the British Museum at opening
and went as soon as I could to the Students Room, Manuscripts Department.
After a bit of vagueness on my part I nailed down an empty seat
(there weren't too many) and filed for five of the manuscripts I had
garnered from Bernard Smith's bibliography. I must need study
their catalog at some later date to ascertain how it functions. Well, after a half hour wait I was informed
my volumes were so large I must remove to the adjacent room wherein
they had special places for illuminated manuscripts and special
materials and "large manuscripts." A place was made for me and
I worked there steadily until past 3 pm, with only a 15 minute
break for lunch...
Tomorrow I shall go back to Greenwich,
photograph in detail the Cook exhibit and purchase photos.
Hopefully, that will take care of that aspect. Wednesday,
Day of "cleansing." Paul went with Kris home to get her bags
(came back with blisters) & Matt and I went to do wash. It
gets worse each time—almost impossible to get a dryer except
the 6d [i.e. old style sixpence] ones. I hate those women who
Staggered back at 10:30—then hung up damp
wash & went out to store with Matt. Staggered back with
that. Sick of my hair for one more second, I washed
it, & cleaned out my drawers (recorded purchases, etc.). Plan
to wash Matthew['s hair] later.
Took off early for Greenwich... As I excursioned through the
galleries of the National Maritime Museum, planning some
photography, I began looking at the stern embellishments on the
various ship models. I decided that here was an unexplored bit
of "architectural" history, what with the elaborate treatment given
this portion of the ships. One does see a change in style from
1680-90 to about 1810. What it all means I am not sure, but I
think a brief note on the subject is worth writing up...
I took the river launch back to Westminster
where I checked boat times for Hampton Court.
On return I went through a rather goodly
pile of mail to discover a letter from Louis Cicotello in his guise
as Acting Chairman. Burton Dunbar doesn't like his Fall
schedule and wishes a change. I've replied by air letter and
have kept a copy for file. Also we have notice that the Plaza
Bank had transferred $1,000 to our Barclays account, but sent it to
Cockspur Street and some other vice-president signed the letter.
Could Pettey be on vacation—or
gone? Anyhow I wrote Pettey to ignore my July 4 letter re: the
$500 transfer since I suspected this one he would read and follow
up. I shall drop by the Belgravia Bank later this week to
learn if indeed I have an additional thousand in our account.
Ah me, our efficient bankers get too efficient. At least we
seem to not have the traditional money troubles.
Tonight Mila and I go to the theatre, the
one in the Mayfair Hotel. Now we shall see how the rich
We saw The Philanthropist—a clever
play which Mila liked better than I...
The boys and Mila went to Madame Tussaud's.
Kids & I went to Mme Tussaud's & Planetarium—really very
interesting. I came skeptical but was impressed with the art
with which wax figures are designed & executed. Kids loved
Chamber of Horrors with all of the murderers etc.—also Penny Arcade.
Planetarium much appreciated since we could sit down & it was air
conditioned. Came back & rested—2:30.
Geo & I went to see
at the Mayfair (in Hotel). Went early & I had a gin & tonic at
bar & watched the rich people. Little (350 [seat]) theatre,
air conditioned. Play very amusing. I liked it better
than Geo. Main character very well realized & performed—other
parts not so well written (one girl had no lines!) but the
author sure can write dialogue! Won best play award.
Back home 11:00.
Today was Hampton Court day. We started early, stopping by
Wallace Heaton to turn in film and pick some up. We left
Westminster Pier at 10 a.m., and somewhat more than three hours
later we arrived at Hampton Court. We had lunch in the
Tiltyard restaurant and then bought tickets and toured. A
somber place, quite formal and austere despite later additions which
were more appropriately embellished (18th century stuff). A
large number of paintings on display, some quite good, but most in
need of restoration. We toured guide book in hand and yet felt
less well informed than we should have been. Perhaps I should
have gotten one of the sound guides, but I was bestrung with photo
After touring, we attempted to obtain
places on the 4 p.m. boat only to find it filled with children who
should have taken another earlier craft. So we has a very hot
wait for the last boat, 5 p.m., which was quite crowded. We
did manage to return by 8 p.m. and hurried back to our quarters for
our evening snack. The river run did introduce one aspect of
life of an earlier time, that when the rivers (and canals) were the
major traffic ways.
I feel I should say more about Hampton
Court, but architecturally it is a conglomerate which is far less
satisfying than one might wish. But the experience was worth
Went to Hampton Court by boat. Got on at 9:35—left at 10:00
AM. [The boat was] Packed —[we were] out in sun whole way. Arrived about
1:45—really! Rowboats were passing us by! Gate in one
lock was stuck. Got sunburned and tired. Famished—ate in
Tiltyard cafe—very expensive (hamburger & chips, 65 pence).
Went around—I can't say it thrilled me too much—too mammoth,
baroque. Got to pier at 3:50 to find boat being packed to
gills with, among others, 190 schoolchildren. (They are
everywhere! ) Waited in & out of line until 4:45 with many
other muttering people. Trip back a bit better, cooler (in
shade) & could move about freely (eat, etc.). Got back about
8:00. Had soup & sandwiches. Really fagged. Slept
until 8:00 AM.
This day was set aside for photographing in the print room of the
British Museum... I did have a freak accident. While
moving in for a close-up, my tripod head tilted forward (apparently I
had not tightened it sufficiently) and the head of the cable release
struck the edge of the lip of the easel. At first I thought
all was well, but then discovered that I had sheared a tiny screw on
the housing that is threaded for the cable release... Ah me,
it must have been the heat today. Not K.C. weather, but a bit
bad indoors in London which does not have resources to cope with
this sort of thing...
I hit Buckingham Palace Road and Victoria
just as the troops were coming down the street on their way to the
changing of the guard (or was it the return?). Ah, it must
have been the return for it was about 12:15 or 20 and they were on
their way to Chelsea Barracks. Very much more impressive and
easier to see than the changing itself. But with
caps, the wool tunics and the sun—wow!
At the bank I had the world weary teller
again (foreign business) who was wilting under the heat. I
couldn't hear all of his explanation [of Tuesday's $1,000 transfer
to the wrong bank] what with the traffic's noise,
but I gathered that [the confusion] had to do with the fact that there is nothing
automatic, and besides the Cockspur branch is not part of the same
operation as Belgravia, thus there is no
automatic deposit of funds. Mr. Weary said he would ask that
the money be transferred [from Cockspur to Belgravia]. Presumably I could have gone to
Cockspur Street and have done this but I had my reservations. I
think that tomorrow I might call in person and see if this did
indeed happen. Ah me, the details. Fortunately the
transmitting letter had my London address on it. I am not
clear as to the difference between Barclay Bank DCO (Cockspur
Street) and Barclay Bank Limited. No doubt tomorrow I shall
After this bit of frustration, I came home,
had lunch and stretched out for a needed rest. Mila is off to
a matinee and I think we shall all eat out tonight.
We did at a middle class restaurant of
Slavic base. The food was adequate but that was all.
I have decided that tomorrow I shall stop
by Barclays Bank on Cockspur Street and see if the transfer of the
$1,000 has taken place. Then I shall go up to the British
Museum to see about photos from the Manuscripts Department.
I'm not sure about the plans of Mila and the boys.
Went walking to St. James Park with boys & bread crumbs. Fed
ducks (also some baby ducks, sparrows & pigeons) & took color
photos. Came back by way of store (£3.08). Took color
photos of rooms. Went to Leicester Square—Charing Cross Road,
bought some books. Saw
Abelard & Heloise, very good.
Play not as good as production, which was excellent. Set
especially good—two towers on turntables, turned by actors
(permanent units with grids, doors, curtains, stairs) done during
blackouts. Very fluid staging. Corin Redgrave especially
good—marvelous voice. Home at 5:45. Ate out at Polish?
After a brief bout of marketing, we sallied forth to Trafalgar to
the Barclays Bank DCO. Lo and behold, on a hot, muggy day we
found air conditioning. I explained the matter of the wayward
check. Much consternation and searching and after a
considerable wait (fortunately cool) I was informed that the check
had indeed been sent to Barclays Bank Limited, Belgravia. When
I asked what the difference was between the two banks, I was
again—these are two different banks. I fail to comprehend but
I assume that in due course our account in Belgravia will be
credited. I think I shall drift over to cash another check
next week and ask for my balance. Let us hope it will be
cleared by the end of next week.
Then we walked up Regent Street over to
Piccadilly and looked in at St. James, a Wren church, and Albany
Court and Burlington House (I should return with a camera), two
arcades and finally to the British Museum of Ethnography... On
our way there, we walked into one arcade, and in the book shop by
New Zealand House I found another volume on James Cook and New
Zealand. I had not come across it in other sources, and it is
profusely illustrated. So I have additional data. I feel
it quite interesting that these books, which are not really about
art, do depend heavily on the drawings and paintings which are often
compared with photographs. The point is clear. The
artist-illustrator was a necessary adjunct to the voyages and to
their recounting them.
After lunch, we took the tube to Hyde Park
Corner, and there went through the Wellington Museum. From
there it was back to Eccleston Square to cool off and to rest with a
pick up of film on the way...
The British Museum of Ethnography is in an
1869 or so building which has very modern exhibition galleries.
They plan to exhibit by themes—e.g. tribal wooden sculptures;
weaving and costume in Palestine; Pre-Columbian mosaic sculpture,
etc. It is tasteful and scaled to reasonable proportions.
The Wellington Museum has some good and
some bad paintings. It is interesting architecture and it is
clear that Wellington was quite the hero.
There is much to see and do in London.
I must move ahead if I plan to do a decent job. Fortunately my
work at the British Museum yesterday morning turned out O.K.
Tomorrow I shall return to check the Manuscripts photo files and
make out an order... Must return to the Kensington museum.
Ah me, so much to do and so little time.
God, is it getting uncomfortable—it must be in 80's with very high
humidity. Went to Cockspur Barclay's bank to see what happened
to our money (after much ado, found out it was transferred O.K.).
Air conditioned!! Walked around Regent Street—Christopher Wren's
St. James Church—lovely. New Zealand Bookstore—bought books.
Burlington Arcade—Matt bought black cab. British Museum
Department of Ethnography. Ate at Wimpys...
By tube to Hyde Park Corner to Wellington
Museum (really impressive but so warm) 1:00 PM. Huge
dining "gallery" with long table & 40 chairs (originally seated
100 at Wellington's banquet for his generals from Waterloo).
Staggered back (burning & swollen feet) to Wallace Heaton &
Woolworths—had a beer at home. Slept a bit, had baths, washed
Matt's hair. Had lamb, etc. Feet still hot.
I went to the British Museum to order photographs and microfilms of
the manuscripts and was amazed to discover the place relatively
empty in the morning... I had lunch at the Museum and took a
number of photos, which I trust will summarize the place. I
walked the several galleries I had not yet viewed. Then I
walked over to the Russell Square tube station through Russell
Square and returned to the flat... After a supplementary
snack, I devoted most of the remaining afternoon to reading the
Beggs' book on Cook. This evening we go to the Old Vic and we
see Coriolanus (sp? Apparently this is correct).
Tomorrow I think we will all go out in the
Kew Gardens so that when next I go it can be alone. Monday I
really should check out the V&A Library. Tuesday I think we
shall try for Canterbury. I also need to check with the Post
Office about their guidelines in shipping books to the U.S.
The Coriolanus was O.K. but not
particularly impressive. It was done with an East German
theatre floor that was cumbersome at times—and
visually it was rather drab.
Cooler. Got up early & was at launderette by 8:00 AM—done by
9:00. Somewhat better, though still reasonably [sic] crowded.
Went to Sloane Square with kids: bookstore, Peter Jones, King's
Road. Back by 11:30. Lunch in. Went out by myself
in Piccadilly. Got tickets to Vivat —went down Carnaby
Street, bought apron. Dinner of beef steak. To Waterloo
7:00—Old Vic. Wore longsleeved dress (never again).
Got old programmes at bookstalls. Weird production of
Coriolanus—all grey & white—Brechtian. Unbelievably
hot—audience visibly wilted—big head in front of me partially
obstructed stage. Home by 11:15.
We went out to the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. What with the
in the sun and in the houses—we did not cover all of it. I did
see the 17th century garden "trifles" such as the pagoda and the
little temples, and the ruined arch. Also toured Kew Palace
and saw the exotic bird paintings of Bogdany. The role of the
early botanic gardens, of which Kew is (originally) an example, the
menageries, etc. relate quite closely to my general project.
Indeed, there ought to be an interesting study of Orangeries, and if
it hasn't been done, someone ought to do one. The role of the
garden, medicinal and exotic (and there is a modest relationship),
the fascination with flowers and with birds (still evident in
England) must have been part and parcel of the Linnaeus development.
I must pursue that point.
Well, the Royal Gardens are really quite
splendid, and the Palm House by Decimus Burton, 1844-48, anticipates
the Crystal Palace very well. I should make a solo trip out
there to follow up on my communication from the U.S.
An interesting note—quite irrelevant to the
passage above—was the appearance of a pleasure launch with
calypso-type rhythms floating up from the Thames. Aboard were
dancing folk, dark of color, having a ball with live music.
Hardly Handel's water music, but in the general spirit.
I also stopped by Victoria to check on
timetables for Canterbury. Plenty of trains both ways, so I
think Tuesday we shall go.
I do hope this weather moderates a bit.
The sun is nice, but it is brutal aboard the trains, and while
plowing about on foot. I'm not sure it has rained once, during
the day, in July.
Went by tube to Kew Gardens (direct on Circle Line) very pretty,
very hot—I should get used to wearing my hat! Sun is bad.
Walked—ducks, old Dutch House climatrons, by river watching boats.
Ate (to me) terrible sandwiches there. (Kew Palace—George
III?) Back by 4:30—thirsty! Had pork fillets.
Washed hair. Paul bath. Still muggy at 9:00 PM.
I guess I'm not a tourist this trip. The ledger seems long but
the journal seems brief. Granted I suppose I could try to say
more herein, but then I guess the photos will do much of this.
Well, today was clouds and much cooler. Considering all of the
waltzing around it was much appreciated. We were very low on
food stuffs, so the day began with marketing. A later trip
(one by Mila and one by me) needed. Then I deposited two rolls
of film at Wallace Heaton. Then I girded myself and
went to the bank. I cashed a £50
check and inquired as to my balance. Oh yes, I forgot the
prime motivation: I received a letter today from Pettey at Plaza
Bank. I do hope it is the Belgravia branch of Ltd.
Anyway, this prompted me to check at the bank. There I
discovered that: a) my balance did not show the $1,000 or the $500;
and b) my balance showed that £106 for which I have written checks
... had not yet cleared. So matters at that stage were
confused. Next I went over to the Post Office to inquire as to
wrapping books for mailing. The key is to leave one end open,
or easy for access, for inspection while marking it Book Post.
Then it was off to the V&A. Arrived
shortly after 10 a.m. and went to the Library. Discovered my
British Museum Reader card will give me access to the Library.
And there, to my surprise, was Marilyn Stokstad from K.U. She
is hard at her book on Medieval Art, and all we did was exchange
hellos. I wouldn't say we ever have been close, and indeed
what more was there to say? To exchange pleasantries about our
respective research would have been out of character for both of us.
Also, the library is presumed to be a place of silence.
In the V&A I checked the card catalog only
to discover that all my authors were not to be found. What a
disaster, and how inexplicable. Then I checked my information
sheets and discovered that the card catalog of authors goes back
only to books acquired after 1890. A book catalog dealt with
earlier material... So I spent several hours in study.
But the money matter bothered me
considerably, and I left after I had studied the basic data, and
returned to the bank. There I learned that the $1,000 had
arrived and should be credited to my account in two or three days.
And the $500, well time will tell. I guess I've learned
something from all of this on the matter of funds, but I'm not
exactly sure what it is. Presumably the next time I shall have
it all worked out neatly and then I can demonstrate what it was I
So it was back to the rooms via shopping,
and I read the papers. This evening it is the theatre—The
Sleuth. I hear tell it is a good play.
Tomorrow I believe we go to Canterbury.
I say believe because the weather may be a factor. If it is
like today, it should be pleasant but not the best for photography.
Wednesday I best tackle the Botanical Library. I'm still not
sure what I should do about Kew, or about India House (is this
relevant to my project?) or the Geographical Society. Perhaps I
shall stay on top of things well enough to do it all in good order.
Then too, this is only part of the larger project.
Went grocery shopping—out of everything. Went first with Geo,
later with kids. Kids & I went to Horse Guards changing, then
walked to St. James Park. Ate lunch there—then sat in deck
chairs & watched ducks. Came back, dumped kids. Went to
Oxford Circus (chaos—mobs of people), walked down Regent Street
window shopping. Thence to Carnaby—Indian things—a good buy.
Home at 4:00.
Geo & I left about 6:45 for Leicester
Square—walked around—bookstore open. Ended up in an Indian
place on Charing Cross Road. Bought me a nifty caftan at £6.50
after a "few" outfits—rushed out at 7:45—show (Sleuth) began
at 8:00. Interesting show for two actors—gimmicky plot, but
great audience appeal. Home by 11:00.
For convenience sake I shall start with the Tuesday tally... I
am pleased to note that our expenses are moderate, these quarters
and eating in are a major factor. Sorting out my total
expenses, and the grant money, and doing other related fiscal
matters is going to be a complex chore. Clearly I will have
more for photography and books and related matters.
So today we went to Canterbury. A
lovely cool and clear day. The train ride exposed me for the
first time to English countryside (Surrey and Kent), and the
agricultural side was a pleasant antidote to urban life. In
Canterbury itself I was surprised at how small the town is—[population]
about 35,000. One can very easily do the medieval precincts
(with about half the city walls still intact). This we did
somewhat less systematically than I should have. We visited
various of the "ancient places," and I took a roll of film—or should
I say exposed? The Cathedral, cleaned in recent years, is
honey colored. The fabric in many places is much deteriorated
and restoration is an ongoing matter. There is a stone masons
shop or shed in the el by the first south transept and nave, much in
the earlier tradition no doubt.
The cathedral itself is quite impressive
within, and while it isn't an awesome interior, it is quite
distinguished. The disparate parts—and periods—hang together
quite well. Adjacent to the building are some ruins from the
monastic structure. There are elements of 15th and 16th
century Canterbury to be seen (as well as many later ones) but a
large section westish of the cathedral was gutted in the war (1942)
and there is considerable modern work—mostly undistinguished—to sit
on the medieval street pattern. A number of small churches,
and part of the city wall, seem to have flint (what? rocks?) set
within stone quoins. Made for an unusual texture. I
found no references to this practice. Also gave the local
library and museum a quick visit. I was interested to see that
the conglomerate display, stuffed birds, Roman artifacts, book
illustrations, and the lending library all together in 19th century
surroundings. This was the way it was here and at home.
So it was a pleasant interlude, gave me
greater insight into the country and the nature of pre-20th century
England. Becket's shrine is long gone (by order of Henry VIII)
but the pilgrims still come. We come with a different purpose
and by modern conveyance, and we are armed with "foreign" cameras
and pressing timetables; nevertheless we are pilgrims.
I would like to do more of this, but I fear
that this is not too likely. There should be time for two or
three more such one-day trips.
Left early (9:00) for Victoria Station. Bought first class
tickets to Canterbury (had whole section [of the train] to
ourselves—very nice, cushy). Arrived about 11:00, walked
around—quite cool—had lunch at Wimpys (kids love it, I still
cannot). Saw: Gates, Cathedral, walk, Norman Tower. For
some reason I had to keep going to the bathroom and couldn't find
any. Finally went to public ones. Had "tea" at teashop
at 3:00. (It had toilets also.) Came back by 4:45
train—got in about 6:00—ate hot dogs & bean/bacon soup later
(finished 7:00). Washed underwear & myself. Wrote cards.
Did some marketing, and tried to mail a package of books.
Discovered that the Post Office opens at 9. Also noticed that
they have various early closing hours at the several offices.
Well I tried again after 9:00 a.m., only then to discover that for
book rate the end of the package literally had to be open—open
to both the eye and to elements. This I will not do, so the
package had to go at a rate higher than anticipated. But with
a customs declaration attached, I sent it off.
Also, I've been trying to find a
replacement shoulder strap for my camera case. The one I have
has stretched and is far too long. I went from shop to shop
and no one had one. I even tried Harrods. Well, tomorrow
is another day. Funny, they have the pads, just not the
straps. And then while on my way to the Natural History Museum
I noticed that the black shoulder bag that has been my companion
this past month had sprung a seam (actually a split near a seam) in
a critical spot near one end of the strap. Thus I had to
obtain heavy black thread and mend it. Hope it holds...
I did not finish all of my studies [at the
Natural History Museum], this I can do Friday... I think a day
of interlude is in order, so tomorrow shall be some other galleries,
some general photography, and a continued search for a shoulder
strap. Phooey, trivia takes time...
In the evening, Mila and I went to see
The Chalk Garden with Gladys Cooper and Joan Greenwood.
The play was well done and considerably less intense and brooding
than the film. The role of Maitland in the play is a much less
serious figure, and there were other factors that made the play
quite a different piece than the film.
I don't mind all of the theatre going, but
it does wear a bit.
Took children to Regent's Park Zoo—quite a walk. It's really
very nice—though one must walk through park to get to South Gate to
Zoo. Note: I've never seen prettier rabbits than they have in
the Children's Zoo. Also interesting: nocturnal houses—dark in
daytime,. Bushbaby liked my purse.
Got tickets for Fiddler on the Roof.
Saw Gladys Cooper &
J. Greenwood in Chalk Garden—she [Cooper]
is a true "old trouper" & perfectly grand & entertaining.
Greenwood has aged (all sagging & wrinkled). Beautiful
Nash—Theatre Royal, Haymarket. Home by 10:30.
Today was a "miscellaneous" day. Began at the bank where I was
informed that the $1,000 had been credited to my account and that
they had also received the "additional funds." So now I am a
wealthy man. I had also written Pettey asking for data, and
that had been mailed last night. I should have fun closing out
this amount when all is said and done. But I am learning from
We then excursioned to the
As a museum it is quaint but not overly exciting. Since
is on a Dickens kick, it was meaningful to him. Then we walked
toward the Courtauld Galleries, and this took me back into the
University of London area. An urban setting with many offices
and institutes in Regency houses. My information relative to
the University and the University College is basically Blue Guide,
and I confess I don't completely comprehend. There is, I
gather, an examining function, and some students can present
themselves only for examination. Others are taught there, and
Well, we did find the Courtauld Institute
Gallery behind a major construction obstacle, and there we perused
the collections. All very tasteful, and the condition of the
works ranged from adequate to superb. Basically a painting
collection, there are drawings and prints, and except for the
strange approach via an elevator much like a freight elevator to the
5th (our 6th) floor, I saw nothing on display related to the
research, but it was nice to see Manet's big Follies, and the
group of Cezannes.
From there we found an inevitable Wimpy's
really have to photograph at least one—and then we went over to the
General Post Office Tower and after a fairly long wait in queue, we
arrived at the enclosed observation level. There we circled
several times and I took some pictures through dirty glass and smog.
One view of the Nash Crescent was worthwhile.
Then we took the tube over to St. James
Park, walked down toward Buckingham Palace past the Wellington
Barracks, classic revival (and 1834-59 according to the Blue Guide)
and to the Queen's Gallery. Oh yes, the Queen was "in," and
there were the early arrivals for the garden party in conjunction
with meetings of the American Bar Association. The Englishmen
were arriving in striped trousers, cutaways, and top hats.
Well, anyway, we perused the Queen's Gallery. A very handsome
little gallery, air conditioned, superbly lighted in the south wing
section of the Palace. One enters from the outside and away
from the Mall side so one isn't even aware of the Palace per se.
A selection of Dutch pictures from the Royal Collection were on
display. Considering all of the pictures at Hampton Court, Kew
Palace, and Lord knows how many others, I have no idea of the size
of the collections, but what was on display was very
impressive. Excellent condition and beautiful presentation.
And a very handsome catalog in both paper and hard cover with the
copyright reserved to H.M. The Queen.
Here I did see one minor picture, by
Post of a View of a Village in Brazil. Since Post died
in 1680 this comports well with the interest in "foreign places"
which is continued in Cook I [i.e. Captain Cook's first voyage] with
the views and botanizing in Rio. Indeed, this is one aspect I
can pursue... the general interest in and pursuit of visual data of
the natural world...
Well after this pleasant interlude, we also
took in the Royal Mews (must check the derivation of the term) and
this I could just as well have skipped. It is an experience
but not noteworthy. From there it was but a short walk to our
quarters, past Woolworths, where I bought some filets of beef for
broiling. All that walking, lugging the photo equipment,
required energy food.
Oh yes, I stitched up about seven inches of
the strap on the camera case so it will serve until I can find a
proper adjustable one.
And as I am writing this entry,
Joan[n] Soulier called from Paris. Perhaps we shall see her briefly in
a few days. My, life goes apace.
A walk day! At 9:15 to Victoria Bank, then via Tube to
Russell Square, thence by foot to Dickens House; thence by foot to
Courtauld Museum, thence by foot to Tottencourt Road to eat at (another)
Wimpy's. Thence by foot to Post Office Building. Stood
in line 30-45 minutes—up to observation tower (very spectacular
view)—thence by foot to Goodge Street tube. There to St. James
Park. Down street to Buckingham Palace (oh, our feet!).
Then to Queen's Gallery. Royal Mews (coaches, harnesses,
horses, saddles—best was gold & glass coach used only in
coronations). Thence by foot down Buckingham Palace Road to
Victoria, Woolworths & home. Whew!
Just got call from Joann in Paris.
[She] Will try to get here on 19th.
Mila went out early to do laundry, and while I was awaiting her
return, we received a call from Jim and Vera Olson. They had
not only arrived in England yesterday (and were just now recovered
from the time shock), they were eager to be up and at them, so at
her suggestion we agreed to meet at the Tate for lunch and a go
around there. With this unexpected adjustment, I did not
return to the Natural History Museum, but rather spent the morning
reading, going to W.C. Smith's in Sloane Square (to buy wrapping
paper and twine), and such matters...
Well we got the boys some non-allowance
treasures at W.C. Smith to keep them occupied in the afternoon and
evening, and Mila and I went off to the Tate. Shortly after
1:00 the Olsons arrived and Jim in a very expansive mood insisted on
paying for the lunch. We had a pleasant afternoon together,
and I gave them a half-baked tour of English painting. The
Pre-Raphaelite room was empty (why I wonder?) and the Constable room
had not yet been rehung. Shocking! It had been two
weeks. We did not have much time for the moderns, but we did
tour that and ended in the Rothko room. I'm afraid I really
don't see the significance of Rothko's last works, but I can
understand how they function when an entire room is filled with
them. And not all of the compositional items go horizontal,
some are vertical while dominant length can be horizontal. But
this subtlety in Rothko is a bit beyond my levels of appreciation.
In my tours I saw no paintings that rang
any bells for my project other than the Wright experiment with the
air pump and the Turner investigations into color theory. It
is curious to observe what is put up in "fine arts" museums as they
do not relate to my project. Subject matter as well as that
thing called quality does seem to be a factor one cannot ignore as a
determinent (unless it is very old such as Durer or Leonardo),
After parting from the Olsons, we returned
to our quarters and had supper. I did not talk shop with Jim
Olson except to ask him if we had a President of the University.
He was surprised that I had not heard (I guess he failed to realize
I had been gone for over a month), it was, of course,
Probably a very prudent choice under the present circumstances.
Mila and I went to what was billed [as] a
play. I nearly dozed off on several occasions. It was
not memorable even though the cast had Peggy Ashcroft in it. I
don't even recall the title and more need not be said.
Tomorrow we go to Oxford.
Nice day. Did laundry between 7:30 & 8:30 (wasn't even
open yet!). All went to Sloane Square. Bought stuff at
Smith's. Walked to Tate Gallery & lunched with Olsons.
(Jim bought all!) Then a "Geo-E" tour of Gallery. Sat
outside with cokes. Home by 4:30.
Awful production of
Lovers of Viorne—impossibly
dull two-hour long interrogation in semi-darkness with two actors
who do not move. (Geo disgusted—woman next to him snoring
during second act.)
And to Oxford we did go. Very crowded trains each way, but we
did find seats going and coming. Oxford is a strange (to me)
mixture of the old and the new. The mixture of the ancient
(still in use) and the modern, or recent historical (or should I say
historical-recent) gives a kaleidoscopic impression of changing
facets. Oxford itself was very very crowded on the streets,
though some of the courts of the Colleges were open and uncluttered.
Certainly there is no sense of campus, but the many areas of green
do give a real touch of the period. But nothing will match the
University of Virginia['s] old campus, or the old quads along the Broadwalk of
Illinois days in 1942. The cloister here is different.
This must be because of the residential aspect of the colleges.
We went directly from the station to the
Ashmolean. As a structure, it is conventionally 19th century
with more modern accretions to the rear. It is organized by
Departments: Antiquities, Eastern, Western and an [illegible] room.
The Antiquities are much in the 19th century manner with enamel
cases predominating many areas. Much of the stuff is ancient
of date and in acquisition. Since this was (in its origin) the
first public art museum in England (1683) it is a jolt to someone
like me to see accession dates of 1685 on objects.
There was an excellent group of bronzes,
and the small display of drawings included Raphael, Michelangelo (in
a number of items each), Leonardo, Van der Weyden, etc. My,
my. The painting vary, but there are some excellent things.
One curiosity (to me) was Van Huysum's self portrait. A novel
experience was finding out about Jan van Kessel (1626-1679), a
Flemish painter who is represented with studies of insects etc.
These are part of the Ward Bequest of "Dutch" Still Life... I know nothing of Kessel and here might
be a new avenue to explore. I'm used to seeing insects in
flower pieces, but this devotion to what looks like a scientific
illustration needs investigation. Unfortunately, the many
paintings in the Ward Collection are badly in need of cleaning.
From the Ashmolean, we had lunch (which was
much needed, tasted fine, but consumed much time). We wandered
about Oxford, identified the History of Science Museum which was
closed (I thought only for lunch) and Blackwells. We peeped
into quads and I took a few photographs. It is surprising how
hard it is to find specific scenic views which also are more than
fragments. Because of our need to return in time for the
theatre, we had to catch the 3:35 back to London, so the visit was
too brief. I discovered that the History of Science Museum did
not open on Saturday, so a second visit is in order early next week.
Then too, I might be able to see more things.
So I was both intrigued but somehow
frustrated by my first visit to Oxford. According to my plans
I shall return (probably alone) next Tuesday when I might be able to
complete my visiting, studies and some additional photography.
The more detailed map obtained there should help immeasurably.
After a quick supper, Mila and I went to
the Old Vic to see the play
A Woman Killed With Kindness, an
early, early 17th century play. It was not a great play, but
it is an interesting bit of history, and it was done very well
indeed. And then it was to home, tired and slightly wrung out.
A footnote just remembered. At the
Ashmolean, the guards (of which there were many) were older women.
They had a rather grim quality about them, [which] seems more obvious in
their presence than men guards seem elsewhere (except perhaps [at] the
Went to Oxford via train (Paddington). Very nice, though
crowded, train. Ashmolean Museum. "Tea" place with
Danish open-faced sandwiches & cold Quiche Lorraine. Woman
Killed With Kindness. Much, much better than last
play. Open stage. Gorgeous Elizabethan costumes.
I fell upstairs—skinned knees & holes in
hose. Long sleep until 8:00 AM.
Awoke later than usual and the morning was spent in little things.
I did time a slow walk (without luggage of course) to the Pan Am
terminal and it was ten minutes. There I confirmed our flight
reservations back to Boston and they suggested (in response to a
question of mine) that I could leave some bags in left luggage.
So I shall bring over the two large bags Wednesday afternoon the
28th so that Thursday morning can be fairly routine. They want
us at the terminal building by 8:45. so that should mean we can
leave at 8 a.m. or soon thereafter and take care of all matters
I read some in the afternoon, Mila and I
went over to Kensington Gardens, Palace and the London Museum (since
she had not yet seen them). As I write this, it is fairly
early in the evening (just after supper) and I have as yet to wash
my hair, rework my "book outline" and do some more reading. I
have packed one package of books and plan to wrap a second this
evening. These can be mailed at separate times.
Today I have felt fatigue, so it has been
prudent to take it easier today.
To Pan Am to check schedules. Terribly tired today.
Waited until 1:30—went to South Kensington—walked through Kensington
Gardens (boys [not Paul and Matthew] flying prehistoric bird kites)
to London Museum & State Apartments. Interesting—costumes for
Elizabeth R. especially impressive. Back home. Washed
hair. George [sic] started roast. Washed clothes.
Waited for Joann's call. No call by 11:00 PM. (She
apparently had tried all night, but overseas lines [were] tied up.)
Started by mailing two packages of books which I had wrapped
yesterday. The post office clerks look at me strangely when
they note that I am shipping books back by other than book rate, but
I'll not wrap these packages with completely open ends leaving a
string for protection. Then did some marketing and started off
for the British Museum (Natural History) via Wallace Heaton...
Last night after completing the journal
entry, I began revising my outline and expanding it. I
completed the Preface and Chapter I. I've made a start today
on Chapter II. I hope to have a reasonable second outline
finished before we depart London.
Well then, I went over to the British
Museum (Natural History)... Then it was over to the Library
(botanical)... This took the latter portion of the morning and
half the afternoon (to 3 p.m.). Then I took my leave.
Before I did I had an opportunity to corner Stearn and remind him of
his offer of a reprint of an article of his. He seemed
reluctant but agreed to honor his earlier offer and after about 25
minutes presented it to me with the admonition to "cherish it" since
he had but few left. This I promised to do (after all, even if
I am not a botanist or English, I am properly reverential toward
scholarly publications). I've now read it and while much of
the text is derivative insofar as narrative is concerned, it does
sum up much data and does represent (I guess) some hard work on the
botany part. Taxonomy is (indeed) Latin and Greek to me.
It must call for a special enthusiasm to deal with that aspect of
"natural philosophy." The bibliography and the data re: the
drawings and prints I had been studying were really quite useful...
Tomorrow I shall return to Oxford and in
the evening we go to the theatre. As of now, it is uncertain
whether Joan[n] Soulier will visit us in London.
Joann phoned at 7:30 AM—cannot come due to "gangrene" in tooth.
Wants to come next Monday. ?Gangrene? Nice chat.
Kids & I went via Charing Cross Road to
Foyles—bought Blue Guides for Nancy [de Laurier?], things for kids.
On way back, got two silk scarves & two coins for Matthew.
Shopped. Ate at home. I went out to Piccadilly, bought
ticket for Butley (long line waiting) for Tuesday
night. Bought shawl at Scotch House & bolaro (Indian).
Evening "at home."
This was the day I went alone to Oxford. I was able to catch
the 9:15 and thus had about five hours in Oxford. I began by
going directly to the Museum of the History of Science which is
housed in the old (17th century) [i.e. original] Ashmolean Museum. As a museum
it tends to be rather cluttered with cases and objects (it isn't
very big) and as displays go it was "interesting" but not (for me)
terribly illuminating or overly informative. A case of hanging
astrolabes is not overly exciting unless, I guess, you collect
astrolabes. There was one interesting exhibit of spectacles
which while not exciting did have more data and specimens on the
subject than I had yet seen. Also, on a landing I found an
interesting display of old drawing instruments which only reinforced
the point of how little changes had been made over the past two
I then took off on a walking (and some
photographing) expedition which took me to the several colleges and
the cathedral not seen before. Stopped in the
Sheldonian Theatre, and the
Bodleian Library wherein I saw only the court with
its labeled entrances and the exhibition gallery. I bought a
couple of picture books there and saw a tricentennial (at least)
display (dull) of the Botanical Gardens... Then I went over to
the science campus which looks like an urban science campus with a
goodly mixture of modern and old labs. Also, the number of
tourists were much, much smaller here than on Broad Street or the
High (as they say).
So finally I found the
and went within. What a glorious interior—mid-19th
century cast iron gothic with a glass shingled roof. I really
didn't see the displays for the wonderment of the architectural
interior. The exterior is stern masonry gothic. After
studying this phenomenon, I went over to the Pitt Rivers Museum
which opens off the main museum. Here I walked into an
unexpected surprise. Facing me as I entered was a display of
ethnographic material collected by the Forsters on Cook II [i.e.
Captain Cook's second voyage], and interspersed in the display of
objects were repros of drawings, paintings and prints relevant to
that voyage. So I was at last able to see examples of what was
in fact illustrated. Very satisfying—especially since I did
not know about the museum much less the display. Pitt Rivers
is ethnology and pre-history while the University Museum is Natural
I wandered around and behind the tasteful
Cook-Forster exhibit and walked into a labyrinth of cases of jammed
up objects with canoes, etc. hanging from the ceiling. I wish
I had had a better opportunity to see the Peabody at Harvard for
comparison. Well, the jam and the confusion was such a
contrast to the special exhibit. I guess it comes from a lack
of adequate storage facilities for reserve material. Then I
strolled back to the Ashmolean ... and from there it was a slow but
steady (and tired) walk back to the station. In due time I
arrived at the "flat" where dinner was about to be served.
That evening Mila and I went out to see the
musical (sic) Canterbury Tales. As it turned out it was
very much in the manner and tradition of a British Pantomime.
For some strange reason my handwriting has
gone to pot. It is as if there is a reduction of motor
control. I really have to concentrate on making the letters.
Perhaps I am trying to write too fast and in this journal which
forces a somewhat different configuration on me...
Back to Mme Tussaud's. Not as interesting the
second time around, but things were a bit
"Trip" to Planetarium, very amusing, much
to the director's expense. Things kept going wrong: "losing"
stars, blacking out, etc. What was supposed to be a
prepackaged deal ended up in soapbox oration & adlibbing. He
muttered on way out, "It would be just my luck to have someone throw
a bomb at me!"
To see Canterbury Tales—very amusing
in a basic way: good, imaginative set & costumes—good principals
(especially Wife of Bath, Gracie Fields on a half-shell & old man
straight out of music hall) but show too reminiscent of a pantomime
to captivate me completely. Audience, though, enthralled,
gleeful & enthusiastic. Out 10:45. Home 11:15.
Slept until 7:45 AM.
In the morning there was a gentle rain. So for the first time
in some time the raincoats came out. We went over to the
London Art Bookshop where I spent a fair amount of time studying
their [books on] buildings. They have "one of everything" out—essentially
current titles rather than "used" books. After a considerable
search I selected four heavy English publications to have sent to me
in the U.S. Two on photography history, one on graphic
reproduction processes and one on early English watercolours [sic].
The total price £26.60 plus £2 mailing
was steep but I probably saved 25% or more on U.S. prices (I trust).
I had stopped at the bank beforehand, so I had adequate cash.
Things are [now] squared away at Barclay. All outstanding
checks have cleared through my account, and the transfer of funds
into the account is cleared as well.
After lunch I had Paul take a couple of
photos of me in
front of #64 Eccleston Square. Our mail then arrived including
one from Gerry Fowle which noted that there was an announcement that
Union Station was to be demolished. Ah me, I can see that I
shall be quite, quite busy upon my return.
In the afternoon I went over to the South
Kensington Museum and studied the painting collections in the V&A.
I saw a number of relevant watercolors, which I photographed.
Also a real Academy piece by William Hodges. Saw a fair number
of Constables including his oil-painted glass transparencies and
cloud sketches. From there ... I went over to the Science
Museum and saw the shipping and navigation displays and once again
So I guess I've completed the museum work
to the extent that is possible and practicable. I realize I
haven't seen all of the displays nor have I tracked down all of the
relevant material, but I think I've done a creditable job
considering where I started and what I now know.
Tonight it is theatre again. Vivat,
Vivat Regina by Robert Bolt. Tomorrow I think we shall go
to Cambridge. Friday I go out to Greenwich to pick up the
photos. At that juncture I guess it will be downhill the
remainder of the way.
Rained. Went to bank (all) & thence to Goodge Street—searched
for Art Bookstore—very "stuffy" in more ways than one. George
[sic] got £28 of books to be shipped home! Home for
lunch. Me to Knightsbridge & Harrods. Not too thrilling.
Awfully tired & achey (G[eorge?]). To Vivat tonight.
We went to Cambridge. As trips went it was adequate but not
the most memorable. Perhaps I am a bit weary, perhaps it was
Cambridge. The town is somewhat reminiscent of
Champaign-Urbana. Stolid, evidence of growth and urban
development. The university sprawls about and forms a less
identifiable whole. We could not really see a great deal,
principally King's College and Queen's College. The various
science laboratories in the area called New Museums are a dense
package of structures with little charm. There are some
charming vistas, and there is still evidence of a medieval past, but
even the Colleges (such as we saw) seem more of the 19th century in
cast than Oxford. But I have no adequate basis for judgment.
However, the science thrust of Cambridge must be a factor.
King's College Chapel, clean and in excellent repair, is genuinely
impressive and smacks of ostentation then and now. We sat for
a while by the Cam and watched competent (and tourist) punters.
I had gone to Cambridge principally to see
the Fitzwilliam and the Whipple Museums. The
an enormous neo-classic hulk which smacks of opulence within.
The displays are far less cluttered than the Ashmolean, and are
about of the same range and quality. The Fitzwilliam makes a
practice of displaying books and manuscripts in many of the rooms,
and I noticed a group of florilegia—including
The Temple of Flora. England's enthusiasm for gardening
is a factor that does, I suspect, relate to botanizing. Also,
I noticed a large group of Dutch flower paintings in the Fitzwilliam
as in the Ashmolean (but not in the National Gallery). I need
to look into this more than I had planned. I wonder if the
Dutch painted directly for an English market, and if so, to what
degree this might have influenced the artists. I know that
English taste is of an identifiable type (exactly what I cannot be
sure yet) and presumably there would be a catering to this...
Well, the Fitzwilliam had a number of
interesting works, but the only one specially noteworthy re: the
project was Arctic Adventures by Abraham Hondius
(c.1630-1695)... The Fitzwilliam also had a group of
Pre-Raphaelites and some impressionists and post-impressionists.
All in all a more balanced display with fewer objects and less
clutter than the Ashmolean, but I do believe the latter probably has
more of importance in total (excepting individual works). The
Fitzwilliam had a fine, big Rembrandt. There was no convenient
check list or catalog to purchase.
After hunting for the Whipple Museum of the
History of Science and noting (after finding it) that it had
afternoon hours of 2-4 (this was 1:30) we returned and climbed
stairs in the antiquated building only to discover that it was "temporarily
closed." At this juncture I felt little would be gained to
seek special attention and we left. The Oxford museum was
curious point—and I must assume that the Whipple probably was much
the same. In reading histories of science, one gets no real
clue as to what the attitudes are. The libraries contain the
books that contain the pictures. The museums contain
So it was back to London. The old
(sic) black tote bag I had used to good purpose for five constant
weeks fell apart in that the strap fastener came completely apart.
Stitching this time would not save it. So I unloaded the
photographic equipment and bedecked myself for the return trip.
Oh yes, there was a bit of rain.
While in Cambridge we climbed the tower
stairs—what a narrow spiral climb of nearly 130 steps—of the old
university church. This is called Great St. Mary's. The
view from its top was less splendid than the climb warranted.
To Cambridge. Uneventful trip—not so horribly crowded as other
two, but also a less pretty vista to look at. Fitzwilliam
Museum very interesting, some literary autographs. Saw people
punting on stream, also swans & ducks avoiding boaters. Up 120
steps (tiny spiral staircase)—not my idea of heaven—just to get to
Church Tower to observe the landscape.
The boys and I took the river launch to Greenwich, and at the
National Maritime Museum I picked up my photographs. We had
lunch there, looked about a bit and then returned by launch.
On the way out there was a large group of French teenagers.
Unfortunately the rude and obnoxious portion were seated much too
close to us. Country of origin has no bearing on how
unpleasant groups of youngsters can be. It wasn't traumatic,
but when kids are bored they cannot comprehend that others may not
be. Our return was in part a delight. [Only] About twelve of us
on the ship.
On our return, now mid-afternoon, Mila and
I stocked up at the store—two
shopping bags. Also I picked up—at Woolworths—another tote
bag. This was a brown one.
Now, this day will be one of resting for
me, more work on the outline, washing my hair and reading.
Mila is off to the theatre by herself.
Geo took kids, via boat, to Greenwich—nice of him! I did [a] wash
at 8:15, [the laundromat was] filled with Americans per usual—all asking for advice &
where to get sixpences! Out by 9:30—Ophelia "doing" our room,
so I hurried out. Went to Piccadilly (Indian arcade
shop—bought jewelry & scarf—on to Scotch House—more mohair).
Went to Busters near Bond & Oxford Street for cream of mushroom soup
& sandwich—good. Went to Irish House & got some things.
Then to Selfridges (incredible crowd) for tickets. On home by
2:00. "Boys" had had bad time on boat. P & M baths, M
Went to Butley by 7:30. I may
have been overwhelmed by Alan Bates (it is a one-man show)
but dialogue seemed marvelously witty & even other players very
good. I enjoyed it very much. Made all the right
connections & got home in 15 minutes (10:45-50). Good sleep!
A curious day. Rained gently on and off, and between showers
in the morning we went out to investigate the theatre museum near or
in Holland Park in Kensington. We walked about in Holland Park
hunting for it, down the Belvedere, etc., and at a refreshment kiosk
received directions. On our way there we passed some lovely
houses, many from the 18th century, which were more ambitious and
pretentious than mere row houses. Passed Holman Hunt's former
studio house with large north windows, and the house of
Sir Luke Fildes. Finally we located the theatre museum adjacent to
Frederick Leighton's house, now a public art museum.
The theatre museum is a sorry thing but
keeping a flame of hope and concept alive. The idea makes
sense, especially as a depository for archives, and perhaps someday
some benefactor will provide a basic endowment. Also a better
home would help than the one crowded room.
Since we were there, we took in the
Leighton House Museum, which also had an exhibition of High
Victorian art. The latter was really a rather sorry exhibit
with the prize a portrait by Whistler loaned by the Tate. Come
to think of it, the Tate doesn't feature Whistler—wonder
why? The Leighton House was interesting for its faint
impressions (except for the Arabian (sic) room) of grandeur for a
successful 19th century artist's studio.
From there we strolled down Earls Court
Road and I showed Mila my old haunts (if that is the proper word for
After lunch at the rooms, we took off to
Haymarket to see Fiddler on the Roof. While not a
gripping performance (it is in the fifth year I think), it was a
well done presentation and it did give the boys the experience of
seeing some theatre in London.
Now it is the evening. I shall work
some more on my outline and then read. I feel the distinct
need to slow down and maintain my "strength." I'm not sure
what we'll do tomorrow, and Monday I think we may assay Brighton.
Possible Joan[n] Soulier may come in Monday night.
Tuesday evening we see the Ballet, with Nureyev no less.
I also need to finish wrapping books so
that these too can be mailed early in the week. So that about
does it for now.
Kids & I went to store for odds & ends. Later left 10:15 in
showers for Kensington High Street. Searched for "Leighton
House" in Holland Park for long time, but it is very pretty around
there. Found several notable artists' homes (Holman Hunt,
etc.). Museum tiny but interesting. Museum next door
[in] Lord Leighton (an artist) home—rather awful but fun. Back
home for lunch—then out to Fiddler on the Roof. As
charming as ever. Kids seemed to enjoy it too.
excellent. Home by 5:45. Relaxing at home—washing hair,
Deliberately a slow day. Also a day of intermittent rain.
In the morning Mila and I took a walk between 90 and 120 minutes
into Chelsea and along the embankment. We saw houses lived in
by such as D.G. Rossetti. The neighborhood seemed uneven and
far less opulent than that seem yesterday near Holland Park.
We had lunch out, and got caught in a rain, and the afternoon was
[spent] reading, resting and wrapping up two more packages of books.
Except for one for the boys' excess books, that should take care of
that. I shall mail them tomorrow a.m. before excursioning to
Brighton. That would be four packs of books for me and one for
The evening is reading and resting. I
have no desire to overdo in these last few days, for once I am back
in K.C. and UMKC I shall be busy indeed. My outline needs but
two chapters to be completed in its second draft.
Nice quiet day. Slept until 8:00. Took a walk with Geo
in misty morning and to Chelsea Embankment—down by Royal Hospital
(peeked in Chapel) to Cheyne Walk. Saw Geo Eliot & Rossetti's
Home (no wonder dear Lizzie died of T.B.—it is damp even now) &
Carlyle's in Cheyne Row. Leigh Hunt's. Took some photos.
Back to place, Ate out at "Tennessee" (O.K.) Came back
in showers! Geo slept & read and I read in afternoon.
(Paul washed hair!) Geo fixed a roast. Evening "at
home." Tomorrow: Brighton and Joann?!
This day we went to Brighton. The trip there and back was
uneventful with an excellent demonstration of the convenience (and
comparative comfort) of British rail travel. No excessive
crowds, ease of location seats, speed, etc.
In Brighton the main attraction for me was
the Royal Pavilion which was fitted out with a summer Regency
furnishings. It was all quite an eyeful and rather impressive.
There are some relevant factors re: the exotic design which may be
worth a footnote on exotic influences indirectly from systematic
travel illustrations. There are passages in the guides which I
I took a couple of exterior pictures, and
then we were off to the sea. We promenaded along the beach
(all pebbles) and had lunch in a cafe and then took in the Aquarium
which presumably is the "oldest" [in the world,] being about 100 years old.
It is in a neo-gothic ribbed-paneled vaulted structure which is all
interior. Then we took in the Dolphin show.
From there it was back to the Art Museum
which we toured. A nice conglomerate including two rooms
devoted to watercolors, one old, one "modern," and musical
instruments and a zoology section, a Sussex archeology section, and
a group of paintings , both "ancient" and modern. Among the
moderns were a fair number of Tchelitchew and Magritte. The
"ancients" were a mixed bag but did include a William Hodges which I
was able to photograph. This was directly related to the
project. There was a fair amount of furniture on display, some
good 18th century French, many late 18th century English pieces, and
a really nice group of Art Deco period. Also some Art Nouveau.
So, while the museum did not grip me, it was well worth the visit.
On our return to the railroad station we
passed a superb Greek Revival facade of the local Unitarian Church
which I photographed. Then up the hills to the station and to
London Victoria. On our return to the rooms we found a cable
from Joan[n] stating that she will arrive Tuesday evening instead of
tonight. This creates a problem what with the fact that
ostensibly we were going to the ballet that night. She arrives
thirty minutes before curtain and I suggested that Joan[n]
take my ticket. Whatever transpires will be most interesting
and a bit confusing.
After that it was mailing of two more
packages of books to K.C. and supper. This evening I shall try
to finish my outline's second draft, and hopefully finish the Smith
No, not Joann. We had an enjoyable early (8:30 AM) trip to
Brighton on a virtually uninhabited train—we were on a "semi-fast,"
meaning two other stops—went very fast in between. Got
there just as Pavilion was opened. A fascinating place—I
thought it grotesque at first, but once inside it takes on a quite
commendable character. Especially [the] drawing room,
banqueting room & music room (they were playing Handel's Water
Music). Also there was a black cat asleep on rug, named aptly
Went down to seaside: many people swimming
(I had on suit & coat!). Ate in dinky café, then went to
aquarium to see dolphin show (very cute). Went to museum &
then back by 2:45 train (but not before Matthew lost his shoe
under standing train!). Found telegram from Joann, saying
"arriving 7:00 PM Tuesday"! Oh Lord! The night we were
to see Nureyev! What to do? George [sic] decided
if she came in to give her [his] ticket. Bad night
As things turned out I did finish the outline but not the Smith
book. Rather I read lesser demanding material.
Today I went to the bank and had a check of
£400 made up for me to take back to the
U.S. This does leave a small amount, about £45 to cover us as
needed and which I shall eventually close out. After lunch I
went over to the Tate, studied the moderns and purchased a small
group of slides. Golly that can be time-consuming. Also
bought a "picture book" of the Tate collections. Oh yes,
mailed the sixth and final package of books (for the boys this time)
Now, as I write this by the window of #7,
64 Eccleston Square, there is a misty rain falling. I have
been reading Smith and getting ready to escort Mila to the Charing
Cross Station where we are to meet
Joan[n] Soulier at 7:00 p.m. (hopefully). Joan[n] reached us by phone
this morning and I trust all is understood by the two major
participants in this drama. If Joan[n] turns up on time, she will
go with Mila to the ballet. If not, I shall go. If she
arrives, #7 will be a male dormitory [tonight] while #8 will be for the girls.
I think I shall buy some trivia to read for
this evening. Smith is capable but not the easiest person to
read when weary.
Oh yes, on the way back from the Tate, I
cut away from Vauxhall Bridge Road and watched about ten minutes of
a cricket match which was being played behind a hospital nearby.
All I could comprehend was that one team was better than the other
and that it was less frantic than sandlot ball (is it still played
anywhere, I wonder?). So much for that aspect of my education
at this time.
If the weather is better tomorrow than most
of today's gloom and mist, I shall take a few more
photos. There is a swell Greek Revival building not far from
the bank which I saw for the first time today. I also need
some hallway shots at 64 Eccleston Square, and of course at least
one of Joan[n].
Joann called 7:45 to say "Is it all right?" Of course we said
yes. I went off to do wash at 8:00. Home by 9:00.
Not so traumatic this time. We all go to the bank, post
office, newsstand & then home for lunch. George [sic]
off to Tate, & I to time how long it takes to walk from Charing
Cross Station to Covent Garden. Horrible mobs of people
everywhere. Went to Royal Opera House, up to Aldwych—everything
sold out, even for Amphitheatre for Ring cycle in Sept-Oct.
Walked to Piccadilly one last time—looked around in favorite shops,
but bought nothing. Came home in awful muggy oppression at
3:30-4:00. The rain started at dinner time (5:00), building up
to good showers at 6:00 when Geo & I left for Charing Cross.
Even dripping through ceiling (I very apprehensive that perhaps J.
won't show up at all!).
Train came in on time & she & I were on our
way by 7:00 (with two umbrellas—she in a pale yellow pants
suit). Splashed up to Covent Garden—luckily all the fruiterers gone home—& got to
Opera House at 7:15 (J. to bathroom)
with dripping umbrellas, sodden bodies. What a place—sort of
five seating areas (stalls, stalls circle, two or three other tiers)
all jammed. What can one say? It was great though
Nureyev wasn't in very flashy parts. The first, "Apollo," a very
lean almost static Balanchine piece. Rudi in white tights &
streaming torso (he even sweats with passion) & three girls
(Three Graces? The Arts?) leaping all over him. Stravinsky
music. Not an audience appealer, but they were very
enthusiastic—even Rudi got some flowers thrown on stage, as opposed
to liveried footmen in wigs bringing them to ballerinas.
First interval—J. gets ice cream (she is
starving). Second dance, "Dream" ( of Midsummer Nights!) very
very charming—funny, well danced, very popular. Puck
marvelous, but so tiny—is he a dwarf? Oberon great. Huge
applause. Second interval—J. gets candy bar. Third
dance, third act [of] "Raymonda"—wonderful set, icons, candelabra,
white & gold costumes too. All Russian (Tchaikovsky) stamping
boots—Rudi in background (he choreographed it) but good.
Audience very enthusiastic—boy in row in front of us leaping
up & down. He finally joined whole group of teenagers who
rushed down to orchestra & cheer, throw flowers & no doubt leap back[stage]
for autographs. Everyone standing up—some left but most
stayed—cheering for many curtain calls of Rudi &
Over at 10:30—home [via] Victoria by 11:00.
Joann gets cheese sandwich at Victoria Station. Geo up waiting
in room #8. We have sherry & talked. Geo goes to bed.
J & I talked till almost 1:00. I wad tired but traffic sounds
were loud. (Guess boys room was even louder with a party going
Well, Joan[n] did arrive—and
on time—and with my umbrella and Mila went to the ballet. I
picked up some reading and returned to quarters. Then I read
until they returned.
This morning, our last day here, was spent
in an ambling walk through St. James Park, down to Whitehall, where
we caught the "tail-end" literally of the changing of the horse
guards, and returned to quarters via Victoria and Franklin. We
stopped on the way for some lunch. I took a few photos and the
boys fed ducks, geese, and other pond-type fowl. After
returning to quarters, Joan[n] retrieved her case and with Mila went
to Charing Cross Station to return to France. I began
my bag. Then Mila returned and packed hers. Then Paul
and I hove [i.e. "heaved"] them down to Left Luggage at Pan Am to be
picked up in the a.m.
Upon return I finished a light (sic) novel
I was reading by Nevil Shute. Then all of us went out to the
Aberdeen Steak House on Victoria where we had our only first class
meal out since our stay in England. By the time it ended we
£5.50 which put it in the moderate class (but then there were no
cocktails or wine, only two lagers). Thence, back to quarters.
There isn't much left to do; packing is
virtually complete. We need [to] leave early tomorrow and so
we shall have refreshment-breakfast at the terminal. We are
supposed to check in no later than 8:45 and what with luggage to care
for, etc., we really should leave here shortly after 8 a.m.
First thing in the morning we need to leave something for service
for Ophelia the maid and Mary the caretaker and then off it is to
is about ten minutes distant.
So the remainder of the evening will be
reading and the last aspects of packing, and then tally-ho. I
am quite ready!
I awakened at 7:30. We talked a bit. Geo knocks on door
at 8:00. Have pastries & cereal. Walked to St. James
Park (via Buckingham Palace) & fed ducks. Home via Horse
Guards & Pall Mall. Ate in delicatessen-type place—goose liver
& cheesecake. Home. Took J. to train 1:35. She got
right on. Came back & packed. Geo & Paul took two big
bags to Pan Am (M along). I packed kids' bags. Cleaned
up place. Ate out for a good meal at Steak House (run by
Turks). Had shish kebab.
We were up early and were ready to leave for the Pan Am Building
before 8 a.m. We made our farewells and presented sealed
envelopes with tips for Ophelia the maid and Mary Henderson the
House Manageress. Then we walked over to the terminal.
It was a real blessing that we had carried over the two heavy bags
earlier for it was about all we could manage. We got our
luggage checked through and went downstairs for a supplement to our
meagre [sic] breakfast at 64 Eccleston Square. Then it
was aboard the 8:30 bus and off for Heathrow.
On the Great West Road, which is a freeway
of six lanes without shoulders, there was a four-car wreck which
really balled things up since it was on our side. After a
considerable delay, we got through the mess as ambulances and police
were arriving and adding to the traffic congestion. So we
arrived later than expected at Heathrow. We went through exit
check and were one in twenty-five that were being interviewed for
some massive government-type check on foreign visitors (or whatever)
as to length of stay, funds expended, where stayed, etc. With
that completed we were checked into the lounge by the boarding gate
and by 10 a.m. were on board the 747. But at 10:30 we did not
take off. We were informed that there was a wait for
passengers. My guess was that the 9:05 bus was probably
delayed by the jam on the West Road. So it was more like 11:25
when we got our release.
The flight to Boston was fairly pleasant.
Lunch was adequate but hardly distinguished. The movie was an
Irish presentation of The Playboy of the Western World.
Which was not a major production but worth the seeing. We
arrived in Boston about 45 minutes late and then there was the
interminable wait on luggage. I suspect they feed it out
slowly to make sure passengers don't jam up at customs. Our
bags arrived at widely separate intervals. I had marked the
exteriors with tape so they were easy to spot.
Customs was very perfunctory with only a
verbal check. No bags were opened. Don't smugglers
travel with children, or was it a spot check of every fifth or what?
So whatever the reasons, customs was swift and painless for us.
We gave the four large bags to a skycap right at the end of the
customs table and I generously tipped him and he had our bags off
for TWA and K.C. We staggered out and stuffed our hand bags in
a locker and went into a cocktail lounge. The boys had
non-alcoholic [drinks] and I sipped a gin and tonic. Mila had two.
After a restful period we then bought reading material and waited
for the time for our K.C. flight. In due course we went over
and there ran into Herb Wood of KCRCHE.
Then it was aboard TWA and we took off
about 5 p.m. for K.C. by way of Chicago. Boston to Chicago was
very turbulent and somewhat unpleasant. I had skipped
Dramamine on the 747, but I had to gulp one on the Convair 880.
Fatigue was beginning to set in. However, we had a pleasant
flight from Chicago to K.C. and staggered off at about 8:00 p.m.,
which was 2:20 a.m. London time. And there was
with her boys. We gathered our luggage together, staggered to
her station wagon, and in a numb condition went through a quiet and
open (to us) city to home. Happily the weather was downright
cool with the temperature in the mid-60's.
After flinging things within the house I
sat down and managed to get through the 10 o'clock news and fell
apart upstairs. But the old biological clock had Paul, Mila
and myself awake on Friday morning at about 4 a.m., but we were all
home, safe and sound.
[page for July 29 left blank, but on a loose leaf was a "Customs
Declaration: MJ Ehrlich"]
11 tea towels; 1 cutting board; 1 apron; 1
British Museum seal; 6 Pollock's Toy Museum books (Guide Globe
Theatre, School for Scandal, Victorian Theatre, 3 guides); "Bought
for me in Greece: bottle opener, earrings"; from Madame Tussaud's, 1
tea towel, 1 plaque, 1 apron, 1 paper bag; 1 Indian apron; 1 Indian
robe; 2 Indian scarves; 3 Beatrix Potter books; 1 vest (Indian); 2
mohair stoles; 2 silk scarves; from Irish House, 1 mohair pillow
cover, 1 wooden toy; 1 Indian necklace; 2 pendants.
[Another loose leaf listed programs saved
from the seventeen plays Mila Jean had seen:] Old Times, Kean,
Rules of the Game, Amphitryon, After Haggerty, Forget-Me-Not Lane,
The Philanthropist, Abelard and Heloise, Coriolanus, Sleuth, The
Chalk Garden, Lovers of Viorne, A Woman Killed With Kindness,
Canterbury Tales, Vivat! Vivat Regina!, Butley, Fiddler on the Roof.